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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

Sneaky Pete

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Why "slim fit"? Go for a classic look with wide lapels and properly cut trousers.
Because I am slim and regular fit looks very baggy in the body for me. Reviews for Hawes and Curtis are mixed. I think I will go bespoke, probably shawl collar.
 

DorianGreen

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Because I am slim and regular fit looks very baggy in the body for me. Reviews for Hawes and Curtis are mixed. I think I will go bespoke, probably shawl collar.

The guy in the pictures I posted above is slim and the classic cut looks amazing on him.

But, of course, we all have our personal preferences.
 

Sneaky Pete

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The guy in the pictures I posted above is slim and the classic cut looks amazing on him.

But, of course, we all have our personal preferences.
If I decided to try H&C I would go to their shop, which is easy. And then I’d probably see how the classic looked.
 

jeremygo

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I'm planning out my first black tie rig for a wedding (going to order a tux from NMWA), and I'm curious thoughts on shirt/stud details.

What are folks' POV on fly front shirts vs. wearing studs? Additionally, are there any rules or guidelines on stud materials? I'm not looking at anything wild, but not sure if I should be going with gold or rhodium, onyx or mother or pearl.

I'm currently looking at Codis Maya and will probably get the matching cufflinks (assuming I don't go with a covered placket).
 

JohnMRobie

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I'm planning out my first black tie rig for a wedding (going to order a tux from NMWA), and I'm curious thoughts on shirt/stud details.

What are folks' POV on fly front shirts vs. wearing studs? Additionally, are there any rules or guidelines on stud materials? I'm not looking at anything wild, but not sure if I should be going with gold or rhodium, onyx or mother or pearl.

I'm currently looking at Codis Maya and will probably get the matching cufflinks (assuming I don't go with a covered placket).
I’ve got both and wear fly front more often for no reason in particular. I’ve got a yellow gold and onyx set I was given for cotillion by my father before the Black and White ball and have never felt the need to get more. It just worked out that it matches my ring.

I’m unfamiliar with any strict rules with regard to matching your jewelry and I don’t wear watches with my rig but it wouldn’t be a bad place to start if you were getting one set and had no strong preferences.
 

jeremygo

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I’ve got both and wear fly front more often for no reason in particular. I’ve got a yellow gold and onyx set I was given for cotillion by my father before the Black and White ball and have never felt the need to get more. It just worked out that it matches my ring.

I’m unfamiliar with any strict rules with regard to matching your jewelry and I don’t wear watches with my rig but it wouldn’t be a bad place to start if you were getting one set and had no strong preferences.
Thanks! Fortunately no dress watch in the picture so will probably go with yellow gold/onyx as those were most appealing to me.

Currently leaning towards a DB shawl with a fly front tux shirt, but honestly still somewhat up in the air.
 

Lensmaster

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Of course! But some evening events start when the sun is still up (especially in summer)

Of course! But some evening events start when the sun is still up (especially in summer).
Black tie is appropriate in the evening. Yes, in the summer daylight remains well into evening. That is why the rule came about to classify the evening as starting at 6pm. That is when the workday is done and evening activities are starting. So even when daylight remains for several hours after that time black tie is appropriate. That includes the standard black dinner jacket. The off white dinner jacket came about for related reasons. It started in tropical and other warm weather areas as a way to stay cooler than wearing a black jacket. The custom expanded to the summer in more temperate climates. So for the most part it usually is still daylight after 6 in the situations when an off white dinner jacket is appropriate. Therefore some people may have started stating that that is the reason to wear the warm weather jacket.
 

Lensmaster

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I'm planning out my first black tie rig for a wedding (going to order a tux from NMWA), and I'm curious thoughts on shirt/stud details.

What are folks' POV on fly front shirts vs. wearing studs? Additionally, are there any rules or guidelines on stud materials? I'm not looking at anything wild, but not sure if I should be going with gold or rhodium, onyx or mother or pearl.

I'm currently looking at Codis Maya and will probably get the matching cufflinks (assuming I don't go with a covered placket).
A fly front shirt is not ideal because that is a day shirt. A formal french cuff shirt is the standard. Yes, pictures can be found of men wearing fly front shirts with a dinner jacket. Excluding those who don't know any better, those are men who wore black tie almost every evening and so it was a standard outfit for them. They wore variations because of that frequent wear.

With the formal shirt you wear studs and cufflinks. It is ideal if those match. Onyx is the standard. The black of the jewelry ties well with the black of the clothing. Gold and pearl are also acceptable choices.
 

wilcthree

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February was the month I wore black tie twice and it was a joy to indulge in this sartorial expression. The first occurrence was at my wife’s murder mystery party, where the theme was old Hollywood glamour. Since the probability was incredibly high that I’d be the only one there wearing a tuxedo, I thought “Let me experiment a bit since the SF police won’t be here to catch me.” Lol I wore a satin bowtie against grosgrain lapels on a SBPL midnight blue tuxedo, grosgrain cummerbund, pleated tuxedo shirt, velvet slippers, and the black and white silk secret agent-themed pocket square I posted a few pages back. It looked good and I felt good, but for some reason, it didn’t quite seal the deal. For the second event, my mom’s 70th bday celebration, I wore a grosgrain bowtie with the same tuxedo, grosgrain cummerbund, marcella front tuxedo shirt, patent slippers, and a linen pocket square. Something about the restraint of the second outfit resonated with me more, even down to the choice of the more discreet and stiffer (by virtue of being linen) pocket square. The crispness/crunchiness of the grosgrain(s), linen, barathea wool/mohair mix just hit in a way that I didn’t expect: at once formal and serious, yet smooth, drapey, and flexible (ya know, electric slide and all).

For the first outfit, I thought I could get away with the satin on grosgrain but the satin bow didn’t seem to hold its shape well throughout the night, though it was tied well and made of exceptional quality. This was likely owing to the “slippery” hand of satin. This disturbance secretly messed with me. The grosgrain one just seems to perform and photograph head and shoulders above the satin, which, this having been the case on more than a few occasions, gives me much more of an appreciation for all things grosgrain in the black tie realm. I plan to buy more grosgrain bows from my favorite maker in different varieties soon. I’m also increasingly coming around to the notion that perhaps satin bows look better with dinner jackets.

On footwear for tuxedo. This remains an area I’m still ironing out. I’ve firmly established that the velvet slippers pair well with the midnight SBPL rig, but ya know, rules/tradition and all. The patent slippers, as much as I like the idea, just don’t hit in the same way nor do they look as good in photos. I also bought some patent oxfords from Loake but they too miss the mark. Interestingly, my black TLB Mallorca punched cap toe oxfords look great with the rig, but they (or any derivative thereof) aren’t the way to go. The next consideration is a pair of opera pumps in calf with grosgrain flat bow.

Other notes: Since my wife is in media and attending premiers (and other media-related outings/events) is becoming more frequent, my project over the next year is building out my black tie and dinner jacket wardrobe. To that end I’m having a pair of standalone black barathea trousers made that I’ll wear with various dinner jackets. I look to soon acquire a burgundy SBPL dinner jacket with grosgrain facings to be worn with said trousers. I also want a cream or ivory formal shirt. I’m also reminiscing about the elegance of the 3-button, low cut, U-shaped or horseshoe waistcoat that I had made and wore with my wedding tuxedo back in the day. I’ve gotta figure out a way to bring that kind of waistcoat back into my present black tie mix.

Murder mystery party:
star tuxedo 2 Medium.jpeg


Mom's bday jawn:
Tuxedo 3 Medium.jpeg
 

The Dirty Pigeon

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I purchased some decent looking used Brooks Brothers opera pumps online at a very low price. It was only after I committed to buy them that I realized they are EEE width. Whoops. I assumed they would be way too loose but it turns out that they fit perfectly. I wear a 7D in loafers but these appear to be labeled as 5 inside the shoe. I don’t know what that’s all about.

I know Brooks has employed a few different manufacturers for their opera pumps over the years—does anyone know where these might be from? I’m guessing they would say “Made in England” if they were actually made in England. Since they’re not Peal & Co., my assumption is that these are a more recent model, perhaps of the “Imported” ilk. Not sure.

They look nice, anyway. I’ll clean them up and wear them next season. Hopefully they won’t fall apart.

Edit: I believe these were made for the Japanese market as the size printed on the bottom is “25” which would be about 7 in US.


IMG_5462.jpeg

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upr_crust

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After a most pedestrian of Monday mornings and afternoons, my evening will be a bit more eventful, as I am attending this evening the centennial evening benefit for the Morgan Library, celebrating its 100 years as an institution open to the public. As I've not attended an evening dinner with the heavy hitters at the Morgan before, I toned down the "creativity" of my attire a bit, hoping not to make of myself a social pariah at first glance alone. We shall see what sort of event this turns out to be.

Tuxedo - Paul Stuart/Phineas Cole
Shirt - Brooks Brothers
Tie - Budd, London
Cufflinks - Niletti Creations, NYC
Studs - Etsy
Waistcoat - Favourbrook
Braces - New & Lingwood
Pocket square - Harvie & Hudson
Shoes - Magnanni for Saks Fifth Avenue
Overcoat - Turnbull & Asser
Scarf - Ede & Ravenscroft
Hat - Lock, London

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dorgv94

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Hey black tie aficionados, I'm getting married at the end of June and would love some tuxedo advice. I've narrowed down my search to two options: a Samuelsohn tuxedo from Sy Devore in Los Angeles, or the Gregory tuxedo from Ralph Lauren Purple Label. Both are RTW, as my proportions tend to fit well into off the rack suits. The Samuelsohn suit is fully canvassed, and significantly less expensive, coming in at $1500. The RLPL tuxedo is $3500, and half-canvassed, but the feel of the wool barathea from St. Andrews is plush and decadent, and the cut of the peak lapel is more dramatic and slightly wider than the conservative Samuelsohn design. Naturally they'll both need tailoring: Sy Devore offers tailoring for all of the clothes sold in the store, and have a MTM program too so they'd do the tailoring in-house, Ralph Lauren has in-store tailors as well (the Beverly Hills location, where I'd be getting the suit, also offer MTM, if that effects the quality of the in-store tailoring).

I can't find too much information online about either of these brands in terms of build quality, longevity, materials - or even just opinions in general. If I want something that's fit for my own wedding, and then that I can proudly wear to all of my friends' weddings, or any other black tie event for years to come, do either of these options stand out to you as an obvious choice? Are there any factors that I haven't considered yet and should be when deciding between the two?
 

St1X

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Hey black tie aficionados, I'm getting married at the end of June and would love some tuxedo advice. I've narrowed down my search to two options: a Samuelsohn tuxedo from Sy Devore in Los Angeles, or the Gregory tuxedo from Ralph Lauren Purple Label. Both are RTW, as my proportions tend to fit well into off the rack suits. The Samuelsohn suit is fully canvassed, and significantly less expensive, coming in at $1500. The RLPL tuxedo is $3500, and half-canvassed, but the feel of the wool barathea from St. Andrews is plush and decadent, and the cut of the peak lapel is more dramatic and slightly wider than the conservative Samuelsohn design. Naturally they'll both need tailoring: Sy Devore offers tailoring for all of the clothes sold in the store, and have a MTM program as well so they'd do the tailoring in-house, Ralph Lauren has in-house tailors as well.

I can't find too much information online about either of these brands in terms of build quality, longevity, materials - or even just opinions in general. If I want something that's fit for my own wedding, and then that I can proudly wear to all of my friends' weddings, or any other black tie event for years to come, do either of these options stand out to you as an obvious choice? Are there any factors that I haven't considered yet and should be when deciding between the two?
Half canvased for 3.5k$?! They can go and f themselves!
For 3.5k you can get a bespoke tux. Or save the huddle and go for MTM.
 

dorgv94

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Half canvased for 3.5k$?! They can go and f themselves!
For 3.5k you can get a bespoke tux. Or save the huddle and go for MTM.
I thought it was wild too! But sure enough if you look online, Purple Label's MTM tuxedos are fully canvassed, but the RTW ones are half-canvassed. I'm not sure how/if their other materials, craftsmanship, etc. justify the price; I'm also seeing conflicting reports about how much of a difference half-canvas vs. full-canvas makes in suits at this level.
 

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