• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

The Dirty Pigeon

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 8, 2021
Messages
236
Reaction score
382
Last night was our first black tie event since NYE—an annual ball in Southern California that we’ve attended a few times in the past. The state of black tie was even more relaxed than in previous years. Of about one hundred men, I'd say that five-to-ten hit all of the marks. Many others wore some type of tuxedo that missed classic details. The rest simply wore dark suits with black or grey long ties. I saw about three peak lapel jackets and a couple of shawl lapel jackets. The rest were notch lapel. A few of the men in tuxedos wore red tie/cummerbund sets. I was actually surprised to see waist coverings at all. Footwear was all over the map but I only saw a couple of patent leather shoes and definitely no opera pumps. The ladies wore everything from long dresses to outfits that would be more suited for a dance club. I received a compliment or two for my red carnation boutonnière. One guest told me that I looked like James Bond. We had a great time.

Edit: I forgot to mention that I got a dark chocolate stain on my shirt which didn’t fully come out after a couple of soaks and cold washes today. It’s almost gone but I still see it. Oof.

IMG_5363.JPG
 
Last edited:

Sneaky Pete

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2017
Messages
391
Reaction score
181
Hi. Is this the appropriate thread on which to ask for some advice about which dinner jacket route to go down? My jacket got taken (deliberately or accidentally) at a party last year and I should replace it before it is needed. (Thus get a new suit as I won't be able to match the trousers to a new jacket).
 

William Kazak

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 13, 2022
Messages
138
Reaction score
96
I used to wear an ivory dinner jacket with shawl collar with dark wool trousers. Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca was my inspiration. A pleated white shirt with studs and a bow tie completed the look. I photographed many weddings and I got married wearing that jacket. Would you consider an ivory dinner jacket? They also come in double breasted with peak lapels.
 

Sneaky Pete

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2017
Messages
391
Reaction score
181
I used to wear an ivory dinner jacket with shawl collar with dark wool trousers. Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca was my inspiration. A pleated white shirt with studs and a bow tie completed the look. I photographed many weddings and I got married wearing that jacket. Would you consider an ivory dinner jacket? They also come in double breasted with peak lapels.
Thanks. I did think of that, but as I understand it ivory should only be worn if the event starts before the sun has set (super formal, I know). The other alternatives were going for a coloured or patterned jacket, neither of which appeal.
My wedding suit (coming up to 16 years old...) was made by a travelling HK tailor (Senzio), and I was very happy with it (and still am - took it today to get taken out a bit as it doesn't quite fit but is still a lovely suit): I am considering getting them to make one for me. I am tall and skinny, so regular fits that fit my shoulders hang loose on the body and the sleeves are often short (plus one shoulder is slightly higher). Hence bespoke appeals. A DJ in Super 120 would be about £640, which is pretty reasonable. I'll see if they have barathea (I suspect theu will).

I considered SuitSupply but the online pictures failed to convince.

The third option is to keep an eye on sellers like LuxeSwap and buy a good used one.

What's current thinking on shawl v peak? Simply a question of preference or is the fashion squarely for one of them?
 

Faux Brummell

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2016
Messages
218
Reaction score
299
Thanks. I did think of that, but as I understand it ivory should only be worn if the event starts before the sun has set (super formal, I know). The other alternatives were going for a coloured or patterned jacket, neither of which appeal.
My wedding suit (coming up to 16 years old...) was made by a travelling HK tailor (Senzio), and I was very happy with it (and still am - took it today to get taken out a bit as it doesn't quite fit but is still a lovely suit): I am considering getting them to make one for me. I am tall and skinny, so regular fits that fit my shoulders hang loose on the body and the sleeves are often short (plus one shoulder is slightly higher). Hence bespoke appeals. A DJ in Super 120 would be about £640, which is pretty reasonable. I'll see if they have barathea (I suspect theu will).

I considered SuitSupply but the online pictures failed to convince.

The third option is to keep an eye on sellers like LuxeSwap and buy a good used one.

What's current thinking on shawl v peak? Simply a question of preference or is the fashion squarely for one of them?
A white or ivory jacket is meant for warmer weather but all dinner jackets, regardless of their color, should be worn in the evening.
Ignore current fashions, black tie is timeless. 🙂🙂🙂
 

Sneaky Pete

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2017
Messages
391
Reaction score
181
A white or ivory jacket is meant for warmer weather but all dinner jackets, regardless of their color, should be worn in the evening.
Ignore current fashions, black tie is timeless. 🙂🙂🙂
Of course! But some evening events start when the sun is still up (especially in summer).
 

The Dirty Pigeon

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 8, 2021
Messages
236
Reaction score
382
I was flipping through a book I've had since the mid-90s, Personal Style by James Wagenvoord (1985). Pre-internet forums, this was my introduction to the world of actually giving a damn about the classic traditions of style, grooming and overall presentation. I thought I'd share the little section on Formal Wear. No real surprises here but there might be a point or two of interest that reflect the spirit of the era.

IMG_5390.jpeg IMG_5391.jpeg IMG_5392.jpeg
 
Last edited:

William Kazak

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 13, 2022
Messages
138
Reaction score
96
I was flipping through a book I've had since the mid-90s, Personal Style by James Wagenvoord (1985). Pre-internet forums, this was my introduction to the world of actually giving a damn about the classic traditions of style, grooming and overall presentation. I thought I'd share the little section on Formal Wear. No real surprises here but there might be a point or two of interest that reflect the spirit of the era.

View attachment 2140673 View attachment 2140675 View attachment 2140677
He really sets the table on Black Tie. Excellent information.
 

Sneaky Pete

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2017
Messages
391
Reaction score
181
Any thoughts on Hawes & Curtis? I thought a decent off the peg DJ would be pricey but this is quite reasonable.
 

hollandn

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2021
Messages
132
Reaction score
161
Any thoughts on Hawes & Curtis? I thought a decent off the peg DJ would be pricey but this is quite reasonable.
Can't comment on the quality at H&C but not a big fan of belt loops on dinner suit trousers. I was in Oliver Brown the other day as round the corner from my London place and stuff there's very classic and timeless and prices not too bad.
 

Sneaky Pete

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2017
Messages
391
Reaction score
181
Any thoughts on Hawes & Curtis? I thought a decent off the peg DJ would be pricey but this is quite reasonable.

Can't comment on the quality at H&C but not a big fan of belt loops on dinner suit trousers. I was in Oliver Brown the other day as round the corner from my London place and stuff there's very classic and timeless and prices not too bad.
Same re belt loops, but they have an option with side adjusters. I looked at Oliver Brown but it would be cheaper to get bespoke from the HK tailor
 

DorianGreen

Distinguished Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2022
Messages
4,750
Reaction score
6,090
Any thoughts on Hawes & Curtis? I thought a decent off the peg DJ would be pricey but this is quite reasonable.

Why "slim fit"? Go for a classic look with wide lapels and properly cut trousers.
 

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 85 37.8%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 86 38.2%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 23 10.2%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 35 15.6%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 36 16.0%

Forum statistics

Threads
506,377
Messages
10,588,866
Members
224,207
Latest member
yungstylishnard
Top