The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[Despos]

Lining Company is where I get grosgrain. Haven’t seen or used navy/midnight, have only used black. Sure there are other suppliers, I don’t know them.

 

[Despos]

@Despos
The top two are listed as twill.
The third from the top is listed as barathea.
And the bottom one is listed as “solid.”

All are quite subtle.

What do you think?

@brax
have defaulted to use Barathea, it has least show thru of the internals and the texture distinguishes itself from twills. Light colors tend to exaggerate wrinkles and irregularities so I prefer cloth with the most body.
Make as many in dupioni silk as wool.

wonder if anyone has ever made or seen a white DJ in linen

 

[gimpwiz]

Andy57 had (has?) a black DJ in seersucker, does that count? I remember it from the earlier parts of this thread. I don't remember seeing any ivory linens owned by commenters. I seem to recall discussion of linen, and the question of wrinkling being appropriate for black tie, but I could be making that up.

 

[hpreston]

Andy57 had (has?) a black DJ in seersucker, does that count? I remember it from the earlier parts of this thread. I don't remember seeing any ivory linens owned by commenters. I seem to recall discussion of linen, and the question of wrinkling being appropriate for black tie, but I could be making that up.

Black seersucker sounds amazing.

I think @mossrockss has a cream linen DJ….

 

[The Chai]

I had a cream linen dj with a fishmouth lapel. I think I only wore it as a DJ once before using it as a sports coat. I think because it was in heavy irish linen and rumpled it didn't feel very dinnerjacket like

 

[JIMIG]

I sold off the Corneliani tux I posted earlier, as the jacket was too big. While waiting for Spier and Mackay to restock their barathea tux, I came across this second hand NWT Corneliani 150s tux for 200 usd and took a gamble.

I think this looks better than the last one, but would appreciate any feedback. If it doesnt look right, I will sell it and wait for the Spier one.

I think I can let out the trousers about an inch through the leg.

(Ofc, ignore the shirt, shoes, etc).

 

[Veremund]

I sold off the Corneliani tux I posted earlier, as the jacket was too big. While waiting for Spier and Mackay to restock their barathea tux, I came across this second hand NWT Corneliani 150s tux for 200 usd and took a gamble.

I think this looks better than the last one, but would appreciate any feedback. If it doesnt look right, I will sell it and wait for the Spier one.

I think I can let out the trousers about an inch through the leg.

(Ofc, ignore the shirt, shoes, etc).

That looks pretty good on you. I'd say it's definitely a keeper.

 

[gimpwiz]

Apart from the button stance being higher than I like it, and not being able to see the back, I don't have criticisms. Nice lapel width.

 

[gimpwiz]

Oh yeah, this Saturday I chose H&S '19, same as Andy has. Of course, then my tailor showed me a length of lovely Loro Piana ivory, which I stupidly didn't get the reference number for to share with y'all, but it's great if anyone is on the fence.


Anyways, here are my choices that we're going with:

Jacket:

Classic ivory dinner jacket, except peak lapel rather than shawl. MOP buttons instead of silk-faced.
- Standard dinner jacket details: jetted pockets, no vents, one button, low button stance, standard length, etc.
- Peak lapels - Same shape as a previous commission, but an extra inch wider at the peak. Points right at the shoulder. (Should include photo here, it didn't seem to save properly)
- Reasonably structured shoulders, not too casual, but nothing crazy. Natural shoulders, not roped
- A little bit fuller in the waist than usual
- Smaller details: link buttons, fully lined (plain ivory in cupro), lapel loop for flower, MOP buttons (ivory)
- H&S 9722019

Trousers:
- Cut fuller than my usual, designed for braces, classic formal trousers
- Standard formal details: silk stripe, vertical front pockets hidden, no rear pockets, no cuffs, no belt loops, no side adjusters -- but half break rather than full break
- Grosgrain stripe (tailor will have samples, says no real need to buy this in advance if we want to match it for a jacket, unless I pick some oddball grosgrain)
- Single reverse pleat
- Lining TBD, likely half lined per recommendation, but they offered to change it if I don't like how the fabric feels during the basted fitting.
- Will have buttons/link for formal shirt
- H&S 2819202 - black 70/30 wool/mohair

Vest:
- Deep U shape, 4x2 DB, no lapels, black (horn) buttons rather than silk-faced (couldn't find a black MOP, if anyone has any recommendations on samples I might ask my tailor to get a sample)
- Full back - tailor said, "if it's hot, wear the cummerbund."
- Flat bottom
- Same H&S 2819202 - black 70/30 wool/mohair

Shirt:
- Formal shirt, turn-down collar, we're still figuring out exact collar shape based on other shirts we did and changes we want to do
- Marcella/pique bib, U shaped
- Plain collar and cuffs, not marcella (ie, standard black tie rather than white tie details)
- Plain placket, ie, standard details you'd expect given the marcella bib
- Either 2 or 3 studs depending on how it all lines up at the basted fitting
- Still in consideration - vertical 's l i t' for hand access for easier stud insertion -
- Still discussing fabric, saw some I like.

 

[matchankh]

Hello everyone,

I was hoping to get your opinions on the shoulder construction for a cream dinner jacket. Specifically, I'm wondering whether an unpadded, natural/shirt shoulder would be too casual. I'm planning to have one made with a cream wool fabric from the Dugdale formal book, featuring a shawl lapel and single-breasted design.

While I believe minimal padding and a rope shoulder are great for a black tuxedo as they emphasize formality, I want this cream jacket to have a more fluid, relaxed vibe. What are your thoughts on this? I appreciate any insights or suggestions you may have.

Thank you!

 

[hpreston]

My opinion solely.

I would want any dinner jacket to be more formal than a regular suit or sport coat. I’d also like a cream dinner jacket to be ever so slightly less formal than a black dinner jacket. So, for cream, some padding, no roping. Just my $0.02

 

[gimpwiz]

Mine will have (relatively) little padding, natural shoulder. Going to no padding and shirt-sleeve shoulder was a step too far. I don't love heavily structured, roped shoulders, for myself.

 

[brax]

I, too, have funded my summer dinner jacket. I chose:

Jacket
-H&S 9722019 ivory barathea. 11/12 oz is a little heavier than what I would have preferred but nothing is perfect. I have about 15 ivory swatches from 4-5 mills and this one won.
-Standard DJ details: jetted pockets, no vent, standard length.
-4X1 configuration. As this is a summer DJ, I wanted to dispense with a cummerbund or vest which add warmth.
-shawl lapel as it is consistent with the more casual styling. No silk rather self-faced.
-buttons. I’ve purchased both MOP and silk-faced buttons. It will be a game time call as to which we go with.

Vest or cummerbund
None

Trousers
-H&S 9722018 black barathea. This is the matching set of my DJ.
-Letting my trouser maker decide on the congruent fit with my DJ It cut for braces.
-Details: no pockets, black grosgrain silk over seam from Lining Company, front pockets on the seam, no cuffs, no belt loops, no side adjusters.

Shirt
-Carlo Riva voile shirting. 100% white cotton, 60g so very light.
-Pleated front rather than pique bib as it is more casual and less translucent.
-French cuffs, three stud holes on placket, turn down collar.

 

[brax]

Oh yeah, this Saturday I chose H&S '19, same as Andy has. Of course, then my tailor showed me a length of lovely Loro Piana ivory, which I stupidly didn't get the reference number for to share with y'all, but it's great if anyone is on the fence.


Anyways, here are my choices that we're going with:

Jacket:

Classic ivory dinner jacket, except peak lapel rather than shawl. MOP buttons instead of silk-faced.
- Standard dinner jacket details: jetted pockets, no vents, one button, low button stance, standard length, etc.
- Peak lapels - Same shape as a previous commission, but an extra inch wider at the peak. Points right at the shoulder. (Should include photo here, it didn't seem to save properly)
- Reasonably structured shoulders, not too casual, but nothing crazy. Natural shoulders, not roped
- A little bit fuller in the waist than usual
- Smaller details: link buttons, fully lined (plain ivory in cupro), lapel loop for flower, MOP buttons (ivory)
- H&S 9722019

Trousers:
- Cut fuller than my usual, designed for braces, classic formal trousers
- Standard formal details: silk stripe, vertical front pockets hidden, no rear pockets, no cuffs, no belt loops, no side adjusters -- but half break rather than full break
- Grosgrain stripe (tailor will have samples, says no real need to buy this in advance if we want to match it for a jacket, unless I pick some oddball grosgrain)
- Single reverse pleat
- Lining TBD, likely half lined per recommendation, but they offered to change it if I don't like how the fabric feels during the basted fitting.
- Will have buttons/link for formal shirt
- H&S 2819202 - black 70/30 wool/mohair

Vest:
- Deep U shape, 4x2 DB, no lapels, black (horn) buttons rather than silk-faced (couldn't find a black MOP, if anyone has any recommendations on samples I might ask my tailor to get a sample)
- Full back - tailor said, "if it's hot, wear the cummerbund."
- Flat bottom
- Same H&S 2819202 - black 70/30 wool/mohair

Shirt:
- Formal shirt, turn-down collar, we're still figuring out exact collar shape based on other shirts we did and changes we want to do
- Marcella/pique bib, U shaped
- Plain collar and cuffs, not marcella (ie, standard black tie rather than white tie details)
- Plain placket, ie, standard details you'd expect given the marcella bib
- Either 2 or 3 studs depending on how it all lines up at the basted fitting
- Still in consideration - vertical 's l i t' for hand access for easier stud insertion -
- Still discussing fabric, saw some I like.

I like your choices and you have obviously given this a lot of thought. Your only choice that surprised me was not matching the jacket (barathea) and trousers (plain) weave.

 

[ericgereghty]

I, too, have funded my summer dinner jacket. I chose:

Jacket
-H&S 9722019 ivory barathea. 11/12 oz is a little heavier than what I would have preferred but nothing is perfect. I have about 15 ivory swatches from 4-5 mills and this one won.
-Standard DJ details: jetted pockets, no vent, standard length.
-4X1 configuration. As this is a summer DJ, I wanted to dispense with a cummerbund or vest which add warmth.
-shawl lapel as it is consistent with the more casual styling. No silk rather self-faced.
-buttons. I’ve purchased both MOP and silk-faced buttons. It will be a game time call as to which we go with.

Vest or cummerbund
None

Trousers
-H&S 9722018 black barathea. This is the matching set of my DJ.
-Letting my trouser maker decide on the congruent fit with my DJ It cut for braces.
-Details: no pockets, black grosgrain silk over seam from Lining Company, front pockets on the seam, no cuffs, no belt loops, no side adjusters.

Shirt
-Carlo Riva voile shirting. 100% white cotton, 60g so very light.
-Pleated front rather than pique bib as it is more casual and less translucent.
-French cuffs, three stud holes on placket, turn down collar.

Is a pleated shirt considered the more casual of the two?
Obviously (I’m assuming) fly front is the most casual of options, but would have thought pleated the most formal.