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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

Nick Charles

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I'm sure this has been asked an answered in this thread - but for my own wedding - patent leather oxfords, opera pumps, or slippers (probably patent or highly-shined calfskin)? The wedding is fully inside during late winter/early spring in a 800 year old building. Wedding itself will be black-tie optional for guests (most will wear a tux, but I know a few won't). I own a pair of patent leather oxfords, but thinking about having slippers made - however I have heard they are less formal. Thoughts?
If it helps, for my wedding I went with patent leather slippers because, being such a big day, I didn't want to worry about whether my laces were tied or if my shoes were scuffed. I would also suggest that you get a pair with good soles - good year welt or Blake stitch- as you'll be on your feet a lot.
 

Nick Charles

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How do you guys feel about going ventless for your jackets? I notice that side vents have more or less become the norm and my previous jacket was made with side vents as well. For those who've worn ventless exclusively, what are some of the downsides?
Agree with the others that ventless is ideal. It just looks better. The only downsides for me have been that I have the tendency to put my hands in my pockets, thus killing the visual benefits of ventless. Also, personally, I do find side vents give me better range of motion. The latter point is mostly semantic because I'm not performing James Bond stunts in my DJ nor burning up the dance floors at the events I'm attending. But, if you make the DJ with vents, you have the option of sewing them shut.
 

cr2596

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My tuxedo on order currently is being made without pockets in the trousers as well. Just one rear (“hip”) pocket for a money clip, but otherwise no pants pockets at all
Do you. But, I…and I imagine all women everywhere…don’t understand whatsoever. You really forgoing pockets to produce a cleaner line? In other words, removing all function for form purposes? Are your trousers cut slim? Do you carry a bag, or do you just have your significant other store your belongings in their purse?
 

Krish the Fish

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Do you. But, I…and I imagine all women everywhere…don’t understand whatsoever. You really forgoing pockets to produce a cleaner line? In other words, removing all function for form purposes? Are your trousers cut slim? Do you carry a bag, or do you just have your significant other store your belongings in their purse?
I keep nothing in my pants pockets in any suit. I keep my phone and wallet in my jacket, keys as well. It came from having my previous suits cut slim but I liked the look and found the jacket pockets more convenient as well
 

MattyS

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No buttonhole on either peak or shawl. Attach a flower with magnets. flower shops have what you need to use.
I quite like the look of a buttonhole on a peak lapel, and I've seen some wonderful vintage illustrations where there appear to be buttonholes on both lapels!
Based on these illustrations, 1930 shawl DJs have no buttonholes. I suppose they had some sort of pin to secure the flower on the lapel.
Here's William Holden in 1954 sporting a white dinner jacket with a shawl collar that features a buttonhole (not 1930s, I know).
1-sabrina-william-holden-1954-everett.jpg
 

ericgereghty

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I keep nothing in my pants pockets in any suit. I keep my phone and wallet in my jacket, keys as well. It came from having my previous suits cut slim but I liked the look and found the jacket pockets more convenient as well
+1. I don’t think I’d ever forego hip pockets (I do nix rear ones), but they serve virtually no purpose at all, with the exceptions being somewhere to put my hands or carrying a credit card if I’m walking for coffee. I LOATHE (like full on Newman level lol) carrying a phone/wallet on pant pockets.
 

Krish the Fish

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+1. I don’t think I’d ever forego hip pockets (I do nix rear ones), but they serve virtually no purpose at all, with the exceptions being somewhere to put my hands or carrying a credit card if I’m walking for coffee. I LOATHE (like full on Newman level lol) carrying a phone/wallet on pant pockets.
I rarely carry cash but when I do I put my money clip in one of my rear pockets, so I kept that. The rest serve no purpose for me
 

lordsuperb

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+1. I don’t think I’d ever forego hip pockets (I do nix rear ones), but they serve virtually no purpose at all, with the exceptions being somewhere to put my hands or carrying a credit card if I’m walking for coffee. I LOATHE (like full on Newman level lol) carrying a phone/wallet on pant pockets.
The fabric reweavers use cloth from the pockets if you happen to damage your pants.
 

Andy57

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What are your thoughts on dark cream vs light cream for tropical DJs. I've actually never seen anyone wear dark cream in the wild, but light cream seems quite commonplace these days especially in California. I guess another question that might come up is whether you might look like a member of the wait staff.

The jacket on the left in the Fellows illustration is often called a Burma jacket. Formal bunches usually have one or two shades. Mine is Harrison's, I think. Unless you have your jacket made to resemble a cotton, off-the-rack waiter's jacket I think the chances of being mistaken for a waiter are slim.
@Andy57 has a dinner jacket that falls into the realm of darker cream, though if memory serves, it's a bit darker than the one in the picture you cite. I'm not stalking him, it just stuck in my head as a very nice alternative that I was considering for a summer DJ outside of cream.
I do have a Burma jacket.
IMG_2065.jpeg


And, dinner jackets should never, ever, have vents.
 

cr2596

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I keep nothing in my pants pockets in any suit. I keep my phone and wallet in my jacket, keys as well. It came from having my previous suits cut slim but I liked the look and found the jacket pockets more convenient as well
Fair. I only keep my wallet/cash in my rear pants pocket. Everything else is in the jacket. Just hard for me to imagine not having that convenience in a pinch, much more the muscle memory of having them my whole life. Glad it works for you.
 

Roycru

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This picture (posted by @benjamin831) shows shawl collars with boutonnieres. Is it normal for a shawl collar to have this sort of buttonhole?

Mine has a buttonhole. This is a Palm Beach dinner jacket made from Palm Beach cloth.

For those keeping score at home, this is not an impersonation of Dean Martin, who wore white OCBD shirts with dinner jackets. If it was an impersonation of Dean Martin I would have a red pocket square.

P1110403.jpeg
 

Concordia

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How do you guys feel about going ventless for your jackets? I notice that side vents have more or less become the norm and my previous jacket was made with side vents as well. For those who've worn ventless exclusively, what are some of the downsides?
The ventless jacket needs to be well-cut, especially if DB. But I've never had a problem moving around, or sitting while the jacket is buttoned.

The only other downside is that the jacket will not tolerate hands in pockets quite so well. But, strictly speaking, that should not be a problem.
 

classicalthunde

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this question might be super specific - but has anyone made a tuxedo out of the Smith Woollens formal bunch in the past couple of years? Thinking about a midnight tuxedo and going back and forth between the 310g wool-mohair blend and the pure wool barathea

curious to hear peoples thoughts on the bunch or any other recs
 

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