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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

The Chai

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I like vents because I have a habit of shoving my hands in my trouser pockets when I'm standing relaxed or walking. I personally dont think it makes much of a difference visually. I know halston the fashion designer had his jacket pockets sewn shut and had his trousers made without pockets for cleaner lines. That's why hes constantly waving his arms around. I'd say go for ventless with a peak and vented with a shawl because the latter is more relaxed and louche
 

Thin White Duke

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How do you guys feel about going ventless for your jackets? I notice that side vents have more or less become the norm and my previous jacket was made with side vents as well. For those who've worn ventless exclusively, what are some of the downsides?
Not only my dinner jackets but almost all my suits and odd jackets are ventless. There is no downside. I hate the look of vents gaping open, or the vertical rumples of the cloth in the back of a jacket between the vents if it’s been cut too generously.
My Mam always told me it was bad manners to put your hands in your pockets so I try to avoid this as much as possible. Go ventless or go home!
 

Krish the Fish

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I like vents because I have a habit of shoving my hands in my trouser pockets when I'm standing relaxed or walking. I personally dont think it makes much of a difference visually. I know halston the fashion designer had his jacket pockets sewn shut and had his trousers made without pockets for cleaner lines. That's why hes constantly waving his arms around. I'd say go for ventless with a peak and vented with a shawl because the latter is more relaxed and louche
My tuxedo on order currently is being made without pockets in the trousers as well. Just one rear (“hip”) pocket for a money clip, but otherwise no pants pockets at all
 

Mark from Plano

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I’ve had both, but my two most recent dinner jackets are ventless. Cleaner and more elegant.
 

benjamin831

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What are your thoughts on dark cream vs light cream for tropical DJs. I've actually never seen anyone wear dark cream in the wild, but light cream seems quite commonplace these days especially in California. I guess another question that might come up is whether you might look like a member of the wait staff.

 
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WhereNext

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What are your thoughts on dark cream vs light cream for tropical DJs. I've actually never seen anyone wear dark cream in the wild, but light cream seems quite commonplace these days especially in California. I guess another question that might come up is whether you might look like a member of the wait staff.

@Andy57 has a dinner jacket that falls into the realm of darker cream, though if memory serves, it's a bit darker than the one in the picture you cite. I'm not stalking him, it just stuck in my head as a very nice alternative that I was considering for a summer DJ outside of cream.
 

MattyS

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This picture (posted by @benjamin831) shows shawl collars with boutonnieres. Is it normal for a shawl collar to have this sort of buttonhole?

 
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benjamin831

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Based on these illustrations, 1930 shawl DJs have no buttonholes. I suppose they had some sort of pin to secure the flower on the lapel.
 

Thin White Duke

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Tan dinner jackets appear to have had a moment in the thirties / forties but are very rare now outside of bespoke versions as demonstrated by Andy.
I’ve seen buttonholes in shawl lapels from decades ago and recently, demonstrated by Craig / Bond in Quantum of Solace and No Time To Die. I think buttonholes look fine on peak lapels but kinda spoil the ‘flow’ of a shawl lapel, but that’s purely personal bias, I don’t think there’s any stringent ‘rule’ - real or imagined - about it.
 

Idesofmarch17

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Hey folks - where is the best place to buy a black bowtie and suspenders for a wedding tux? Thanks!
 

The Chai

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With ventless I did see a few vintage dinner jackets where they have their vents piped with silk or silk braid. I thought that was interesting
 

MattyS

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I’ve seen buttonholes in shawl lapels from decades ago and recently, demonstrated by Craig / Bond in Quantum of Solace and No Time To Die. I think buttonholes look fine on peak lapels but kinda spoil the ‘flow’ of a shawl lapel, but that’s purely personal bias, I don’t think there’s any stringent ‘rule’ - real or imagined - about it.
That was my thought as well. I don't mind leaving the buttonhole on a peak lapel empty, whereas if I had a buttonhole on a shawl collar, I would always want to put a flower in it, since the empty buttonhole would, as you say, spoil the 'flow'. Then again, I do think that the red carnation looks great with the off-white dinner jacket in this illustration.
 

The Chai

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Personally I never like flowers on shawl for the same reason as having no buttonhole on a shawl. Ruins the flow. I leave the carnations for peaks
 

Despos

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No buttonhole on either peak or shawl. Attach a flower with magnets. flower shops have what you need to use.
 

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