• We would like to welcome Pete and Harry as an official Affiliate Vendor. Pete and Harry, co-founded by Erik (EFV) one of our long time members and friends, offers a wide variety of products, clothes, watches and accessories, antique, vintage, “pre-loved” and new - all at unparalleled prices. Please visit their new thread and give them a warm welcome.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

NakedYoga

Distinguished Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2008
Messages
1,838
Reaction score
2,086

Andy57

Distinguished Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2014
Messages
4,191
Reaction score
12,209
Terrific as always. What's the design on the toes of your slippers?
Thank you, that's much appreciated! The slippers are embroidered with Negronis and they're from Stubbs & Wooten. I have to say, these things took a lot of breaking in. They're made quite narrow, I guess, and, out of the box, they were not comfortable at all. But now that I've stretched the dickens out of them, they're okay.
What fabric did you opt for with the trousers, Andy?
It's the same Holland & Sherry ivory barathea from their Formal Bunch that my ivory dinner jacket is made from. It turns out that the fabric is a touch light for trousers, and I changed the design of them slightly, too. But I think they look okay and (more importantly 😉) photograph okay!
 

dako

Member
Joined
Apr 8, 2016
Messages
16
Reaction score
6
Headed to a ‘black tie optional’ wedding in Bodrum, Turkey and was cautioned against getting a ‘cotton velvet’ ivory jacket from SuSu for fear of it being too loud for a wedding (also I don’t get why they’d make a white dinner jacket in velvet).

The below wool/mohair is what I’m working with. I need to make some obvious adjustments as I’ve lost some weight and the lining is sagging at the bottom right - but do you all have any other suggestions?

Should I wear a cummerbund (I don’t have a waist covering as of now)?

Should I wear the patent lace ups I have or spring for some slippers?

The button stance is a little low, but I can’t do anything about that - I’d love to have a button hole added to the lapel but I imagine that might be a bit difficult for the average tailor. Thoughts?
 

Attachments

upr_crust

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 10, 2007
Messages
7,232
Reaction score
41,520
Headed to a ‘black tie optional’ wedding in Bodrum, Turkey and was cautioned against getting a ‘cotton velvet’ ivory jacket from SuSu for fear of it being too loud for a wedding (also I don’t get why they’d make a white dinner jacket in velvet).

The below wool/mohair is what I’m working with. I need to make some obvious adjustments as I’ve lost some weight and the lining is sagging at the bottom right - but do you all have any other suggestions?

Should I wear a cummerbund (I don’t have a waist covering as of now)?

Should I wear the patent lace ups I have or spring for some slippers?

The button stance is a little low, but I can’t do anything about that - I’d love to have a button hole added to the lapel but I imagine that might be a bit difficult for the average tailor. Thoughts?
Good reasoning in not getting the ivory jacket in velvet - ivory is a summer color, and velvet is too warm, certainly for what I assume is a summer wedding in the Mediterranean.

As to cummerbund/no cummerbund - if you don't wear a cummerbund, plan on keeping your jacket buttoned throughout the evening. Whether that would be cooler than wearing a cummerbund, and allowing your jacket to be open, I leave to your judgment, but assuming that the shirt shown (fly front, no studs) will be your shirt of choice for this event, then the no cummerbund look, with your jacket buttoned, would be a cleaner, more minimalist look.

Patent lace-ups would be proper and correct. You seem to have posed your question about slippers (velvet, I would assume) in order for someone to tell you to buy something that you're already somewhat tempted to buy. I am sure that the other guests at this wedding would not change their general opinion of your outfit much with either type of footwear - ultimately, wear what you like. (For the record, and for full disclosure, I own both patent leather lace-ups and black velvet slippers, but have worn the velvet slippers only with a velvet jacket - personal style preference.)

As for the button stance, a one-button jacket will have a somewhat lower button stance, to counterbalance the spread of the peak lapels. Were it me, I would certainly leave it alone, though I favor one-button jackets for tuxedos (and for peaked lapel suits in general), and I believe that the tailoring involved to add a second button would, in the long run, not enhance the look of the jacket, and could potentially ruin it. A professional tailor can weigh in on this matter more authoritatively can can I.
 

Nobilis Animus

Distinguished Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2017
Messages
2,433
Reaction score
2,104
Good reasoning in not getting the ivory jacket in velvet - ivory is a summer color, and velvet is too warm, certainly for what I assume is a summer wedding in the Mediterranean.

As to cummerbund/no cummerbund - if you don't wear a cummerbund, plan on keeping your jacket buttoned throughout the evening. Whether that would be cooler than wearing a cummerbund, and allowing your jacket to be open, I leave to your judgment, but assuming that the shirt shown (fly front, no studs) will be your shirt of choice for this event, then the no cummerbund look, with your jacket buttoned, would be a cleaner, more minimalist look.

Patent lace-ups would be proper and correct. You seem to have posed your question about slippers (velvet, I would assume) in order for someone to tell you to buy something that you're already somewhat tempted to buy. I am sure that the other guests at this wedding would not change their general opinion of your outfit much with either type of footwear - ultimately, wear what you like. (For the record, and for full disclosure, I own both patent leather lace-ups and black velvet slippers, but have worn the velvet slippers only with a velvet jacket - personal style preference.)

As for the button stance, a one-button jacket will have a somewhat lower button stance, to counterbalance the spread of the peak lapels. Were it me, I would certainly leave it alone, though I favor one-button jackets for tuxedos (and for peaked lapel suits in general), and I believe that the tailoring involved to add a second button would, in the long run, not enhance the look of the jacket, and could potentially ruin it. A professional tailor can weigh in on this matter more authoritatively can can I.
One small caveat: I believe, from what dako wrote in another thread, that he wants to add a lapel buttonhole and not a second button for the jacket itself. Otherwise, I totally concur with all of this!

@dako, my take is the same as upr_crust's. I'd be inclined to forego both cummerbund and waistcoat in this instance and simply keep the jacket buttoned.

If you do not currently know a reputable tailor who can add a handmade buttonhole without ruining the jacket, then I'd advise against the alteration entirely. The flower would be a nice touch, but definitely not necessary. Also, you do not want to be experimenting on your only jacket just before this event.
 

SJTM

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2012
Messages
167
Reaction score
484
Somewhat surprised but a search did not turn up a specific answer to my question, but hopefully this forum will. What is the preferred break for tuxedo pants?
 

The Chai

Distinguished Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2015
Messages
1,591
Reaction score
1,367
Somewhat surprised but a search did not turn up a specific answer to my question, but hopefully this forum will. What is the preferred break for tuxedo pants?
Full break for me
 

Concordia

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Oct 6, 2004
Messages
7,132
Reaction score
1,266
For me it’s the same break as for any suit. No puddling around the shoes. Ruins the lines. Very inelegant.

The trousers should kiss the shoes but they shouldn’t be in a relationship.
Cover socks, unless you're wearing low-cut pumps. Otherwise, keep it clean. Not having cuffs leaves the opportunity to have it slope a bit toward the rear, which will permit both no break and useful length around the ankles.
 

SJTM

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2012
Messages
167
Reaction score
484
Cover socks, unless you're wearing low-cut pumps. Otherwise, keep it clean. Not having cuffs leaves the opportunity to have it slope a bit toward the rear, which will permit both no break and useful length around the ankles.
Thanks. Will wear the BB patent oxfords I recently purchased. My previous pants had just a tiny break (less than 1/2" if I had to guess, but did not slope as I do not believe I asked the tailor to do so.

Somehow having much, if any, break seems completely contrary to the formality of the outfit, but I had a very hard time finding any good photos where the model was standing straight facing the camera and the image included the shoes.
 

Concordia

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Oct 6, 2004
Messages
7,132
Reaction score
1,266
Preppie high-water trousers are also not too good. However, you will mostly be in motion or sitting down, so the precise solution may not be 100% critical. You'll know when it is right.
 

The Chai

Distinguished Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2015
Messages
1,591
Reaction score
1,367
Thanks. Will wear the BB patent oxfords I recently purchased. My previous pants had just a tiny break (less than 1/2" if I had to guess, but did not slope as I do not believe I asked the tailor to do so.

Somehow having much, if any, break seems completely contrary to the formality of the outfit, but I had a very hard time finding any good photos where the model was standing straight facing the camera and the image included the shoes.
images (50).jpeg
I help you

Personally I prefer half or full break with a slope. More elegant imo especially if you have a full cut for trousers
 

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

How often do you get a haircut?

  • Every 2 weeks

  • Every 3 weeks

  • Once a month

  • Every 6 weeks or longer


Results are only viewable after voting.

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
464,022
Messages
10,023,021
Members
209,338
Latest member
danysud
Top