The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Nov 22, 2011.

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  1. johnvw

    johnvw Senior member

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    Thanks for this post showing two reasonably faithful efforts at the correct black tie look. To me, however, the tie in the top pic looks too large; the one in the bottom pic, too small. Anyone have a picture of a "just right" bow tie from this event?
     


  2. johnvw

    johnvw Senior member

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    Thanks to MrDaniels for this post. Agreed that the top three are among the least objectionable male ensembles at this event. It has probably already been noted, however, that DiCaprio is not wearing a waist covering in the top pic.
     


  3. musicmax

    musicmax Senior member

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    DiCaprio gets the tie right, but went with two-button notch (S&K style at a Tom Ford price!)

    Hugh Jackman's tie has nice proportions. He wins points for peak lapels and single button, but like Leo he has no waist covering, his collar's gapping, and the shirt looks like it has buttons :brick:

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2013


  4. musicmax

    musicmax Senior member

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    An outfit as profane as his recent films.
     


  5. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    I don't think he tied that bow himself...
     


  6. johnvw

    johnvw Senior member

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    I focused on DiCaprio's lack of cummerbund or vest, and didn't notice the tie. Good calls all around! :fistbump:
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2013


  7. DJosef

    DJosef Senior member

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    Heh... This reminds me of the GQ Style Guide's Black Tie part, which suggests losing the cummerbund, as showing the waist of the pants is "in" right now. :/
     
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2013


  8. TimelesStyle

    TimelesStyle Senior member

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    I noticed the collar gaping, but you don't know what position he's in for that shot, as it's heavily cropped. I have many a suit that look just right when I'm standing straight, but when I put my arm around someone (such as a relative at a wedding, or my girlfriend at an event) it causes collar gaping, particularly if the jacket is buttoned. You can't see whether that may be the case here.

    And as for the shirt, if it has buttons then it's wrong, but it could just be using MOP studs. Too hard to tell IMO.
     
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2013


  9. TimelesStyle

    TimelesStyle Senior member

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    I'd have to see him head on to know whether the tie was actually too large. For a shawl collar, those lapels are relatively wide, but unlike a peak lapel the widest part isn't at the very top. It could be that from other angles it looks OK.

    The tux looks to be TF, and if the whole ensemble was purchased together then I have a hard time believing he wouldn't have been given an appropriately sized tie. I think that they also show slightly larger bows with their tuxedos; remember Tom Hanks at last year's Academy Awards (considered best dressed on this board):

    http://www.styleforum.net/t/289874/best-dressed-at-oscars
     
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2013


  10. culverwood

    culverwood Senior member

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    I do not see any problems with buttons, a buttoned silk shirt is one of the standard black tie forms. I know many prefer to wear cotton shirts with studs or fly fronts.
     


  11. Butler

    Butler Senior member

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    The bottom one is just about right - a bow tie should be the same width as that of your eyes to be correct! :bigstar:
     


  12. MrDaniels

    MrDaniels Senior member

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    Ooops! This is why I can never really judge the fits of anchormen on the news....
     


  13. MrDaniels

    MrDaniels Senior member

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    His recent films? They are all ingloriously profane!
     


  14. johnvw

    johnvw Senior member

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    I believe you are right in stating that "rule." Judging from the picture, however, the tie, in proportion to the spread of the shirt collar and distance from the edges of the jacket lapels, still seems somewhat small to me. At least Cooper gets points for wearing a self-tied tie (even if someone else tied it)--and not a (horrors!) long tie!
     


  15. recondite

    recondite Senior member

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    FTFY.

    No matter how narrow the ribbon, the bow of the knot must be as wide as your face, or it will look wrong. The end. The only exception to this rule is a bolo tie, which does not create a bow at all.

    A bulky face, looks best with a bulky bow, but a narrow ribbon will be acceptable if the bow is wide enough to match the face, regardless of lapel width or any other factor.This is why the lapels in the example upon which you commented are actually outstandingly good, where the bowtie is horrible.

    The lapels are best matched to the width of the space between face and the edge of the shoulder; fashion be damned. This is doubly true with peak lapels compared to shawl lapels.

    Stop being fashionable and start being stylish or dressing to look your best, and you will never again worry about looking like any of the above disasters.

    It would be better to dress in costume such as 1930's white tie or 1970's tuxedo regalia if the fashion suits your style, then to try fit yourself to any contemporary fashion.
     
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2013


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