The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[The Chai]

any thoughts on a barathea wool-mohair blend (71-w/29-m) vs. a standard 100% wool barathea for a tuxedo?

what impact does the mohair have on the fabric from both a look and structure perspective?

Worn both. Prefer wool mohair blend over pure wool. Pure wool barathea definitely looks more old school. For a classic look there’s no substitute. Wool mohair is more comfortable IMO, more versatile and is equally classic with a modern feel to it. If you go for a proper old school heavy barathea it has a slight fluffy flannel like feeling to it. You don’t get that with mohair barathea which varies from silk smooth to oily slick feel. Depends on design too. I think of you were to go classic three piece peak lapel pure wool looks better whereas a shawl would look better with a wool mohair blend. I might go for a three piece silk for my next one...

 

[Andy57]

any thoughts on a barathea wool-mohair blend (71-w/29-m) vs. a standard 100% wool barathea for a tuxedo?

what impact does the mohair have on the fabric from both a look and structure perspective?

Mohair blends are reputed to be cooler than pure wool. Mohair might (but not always) impart a slight sheen to the cloth, which you might like and some people prefer for evening wear. I think that effect is better in midnight blue rather than black, myself. A mohair blend will feel smoother to the touch than pure wool, too. I have a black dinner jacket in pure wool and a midnight blue jacket in a mohair blend. They feel quite different, but I can't say that I prefer one over the other. I think the mohair blend sheds wrinkles better than pure wool does.

 

[The Chai]

Ps. If you’re gonna be moving or dancing a lot go wool mohair. You don’t want to be in a pure wool Barathea if you’re gonna be doing that...

 

[JJ Katz]

While we're on the subject of black-tie suitings, what do you considerably more experienced gents think would be the ideal fabric for an Ivory-white DJ in terms of the trade off between drape and breathability/lightness?

 

[The Chai]

While we're on the subject of black-tie suitings, what do you considerably more experienced gents think would be the ideal fabric for an Ivory-white DJ in terms of the trade off between drape and breathability/lightness?

There’s a 335 g Ivory wool faille From Bateman Ogden and...wool linen...that runs cool and drapes well. I have a 230 gram vbc summer plain weave that’s quite nice but needs pressing after a few wears. I haven’t taken my pure silk out for a dancing test run yet. Well let you know how it goes

 

[The Chai]

...my pure silk ivory db from an unknown source definitely runs cool though

 

[The Chai]

I think the major consideration I take now when selecting fabrics for a night out/dinner wear is the stick factor when I inevitably sweat. Mohair beats pure wool over that. Have yet to test out silk.

 

[Andy57]

While we're on the subject of black-tie suitings, what do you considerably more experienced gents think would be the ideal fabric for an Ivory-white DJ in terms of the trade off between drape and breathability/lightness?

Dormeuil and Holland & Sherry's both have formal bunches that contain classic ivory barathea worsted cloths. A lightweight wool will actually wear cooler than a dupioni silk and will drape better. Go with something like dupioni if you want the texture, but if you want that classic, smooth-finished ivory dinner jacket, go with wool.

 

[JJ Katz]

Thanks for the advice, fellas. I once saw a great ivory DJ (RTW) that was in a fabric that seemed halfway between a basket weave of some sort and crepe de chine and draped well and I stupidly didn’t find out more about it.,,

 

[The Chai]

Thanks for the advice, fellas. I once saw a great ivory DJ (RTW) that was in a fabric that seemed halfway between a basket weave of some sort and crepe de chine and draped well and I stupidly didn’t find out more about it.,,

Get silk...join the dark side ;-)

 

[brax]

Ps. If you’re gonna be moving or dancing a lot go wool mohair. You don’t want to be in a pure wool Barathea if you’re gonna be doing that...

Are we ever going to see you in action with one of your DJs? I'd love to see a short clip of you dancing a salsa or tango in a DJ.

 

[The Chai]

Are we ever going to see you in action with one of your DJs? I'd love to see a short clip of you dancing a salsa or tango in a DJ.

If I ever get a video of myself dancing in one sure. Closest I have so far is of me in jeans and a singlet

 

[Contango]

If I ever get a video of myself dancing in one sure. Closest I have so far is of me in jeans and a singlet

There’s a certain irony in the man who wears so much black tie also wearing a wife beater...

 

[The Chai]

There’s a certain irony in the man who wears so much black tie also wearing a wife beater...

I go to the gym in a Barbour and a wife beater...on special occasions I’ll sometimes even wear a Bruce lee t shirt

 

[am55]