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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

The Chai

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Thanks to everyone's help so far!

Tried to work with Kent Wang (via Aaron in NYC) and it was a great experience, but unfortunately we couldn't make the timing and logistics work, and they also couldn't accommodate the specific shawl lapel I was looking for (the Beckham Style which is more squared off versus the more traditionally "pointed" version). Additionally, Aaaron mentioned I am a bit of a U shape rather than pronounced V shape, so a peak lapel would be good.

So given that, went with my original tailor in Hong Kong and went with your suggestions to get a black peak lapel. Went with a Vitale Barberis Canonico Mohair and Wool blend.

Anyway, here are some follow up questions I was curious about:

Vents - no vents or side vents? I have a larger rear end (not side to side but front to back)
Shirt - folks had mentioned a turndown collar but given I went with a peak lapel, would you recommend a turndown collar or wing collar? Also, what options are there besides Marcella and what would you recommend?
Lining - what lining would you recommend? I was thinking black with some slight red trimming
Lapel Width - Was thinking 10cm as it would look more formal but not sure if that is too wide
Vest/Cummerbund - Any tips here in terms of Vest or Cummerbund, and details around the Vest if that is the best route would be welcome!
I have a large rear end too...unvented works really well
 

classicalthunde

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Thanks to everyone's help so far!

Tried to work with Kent Wang (via Aaron in NYC) and it was a great experience, but unfortunately we couldn't make the timing and logistics work, and they also couldn't accommodate the specific shawl lapel I was looking for (the Beckham Style which is more squared off versus the more traditionally "pointed" version). Additionally, Aaaron mentioned I am a bit of a U shape rather than pronounced V shape, so a peak lapel would be good.

So given that, went with my original tailor in Hong Kong and went with your suggestions to get a black peak lapel. Went with a Vitale Barberis Canonico Mohair and Wool blend.

Anyway, here are some follow up questions I was curious about:

Vents - no vents or side vents? I have a larger rear end (not side to side but front to back)
Shirt - folks had mentioned a turndown collar but given I went with a peak lapel, would you recommend a turndown collar or wing collar? Also, what options are there besides Marcella and what would you recommend?
Lining - what lining would you recommend? I was thinking black with some slight red trimming
Lapel Width - Was thinking 10cm as it would look more formal but not sure if that is too wide
Vest/Cummerbund - Any tips here in terms of Vest or Cummerbund, and details around the Vest if that is the best route would be welcome!
Vents - I opted for side vents cause i put my hands in my pockets a decent amount. technically a dinner jacket should be unvented, but i think these days it is a mere venial sin and something that 99% of people probably would not notice. a lot of people on this thread are advocates of no-vent, both they and some tailors have chimed in that it doesnt make any difference in comfort or cause an issue large rumps. i would just suggest to do what you like/find comfortable

shirt - I think unless your going full 3-piece dinner suit with a low cut or "U" vest, it is best to stay with the turn down collar. once again in my opinion, i think a wing collar unless done very well tends to make it look like you rented the oufit. plus i like that a turn down collar tends to throw some casual elements in an otherwise formal outfit. I went pique/marcella for the same reason, but there is also a pleated option...proper cloth has a good tuxedo shirt guide that walks you through a bunch of different options.

Lining - I went purple for fun, I think you can have fun with it as long as its in reason (i'd stay away from like bright orange or highlighter yellow) but people probably wont see too much of this either way

Lapels - A s a big guy i steer really clear of narrow lapels, i wear a size 46 jacket and went for 10cm, i think unless your much smaller (like a 36 or 38 jacket size) that a 10cm peak lapel should be fine, i've even seen some that go out to 12cm. I'd say (once again depending on your jacket size) that 10cm is a nice hearty middle ground and steers clear of being too trendy wide or narrow and will look fine for plenty of years to come

Vest/Cummerbund - I prefer a cummerbund cause i mostly wear my jacket open, if you do get a vest make sure it is a low cut one or a "U" shape. I personally like this low cut style that Simon Crompton has, you can also get a U shaped one like @Andy57 wears sometimes. Budds of london has very nice vests and cummerbunds that you can use for inspiration if your tailor is making these as well...just make sure that the texture of your lapel matches your bow tie and vest
 

perfectstitch

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Thank you! I am in fact a size 36 - 38 so it seems like I should go 9.25cm (tailor suggested 9.5cm).

Attached are the options he provided for cummerbunds and waistcoats
 

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perfectstitch

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I also imagine there is some flexibility around the waistcoat (I could probably ask for peak lapels for example) so if anyone has a picture of suggested style that would be great!

Also, think there is some flexibility around the peak lapel style if there are any pictures that would serve as a good model for PeterLee (tailor)
 

Faux Brummell

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Honestly, both of the single breasted waistcoats look about as classic as you can get.

I also imagine there is some flexibility around the waistcoat (I could probably ask for peak lapels for example) so if anyone has a picture of suggested style that would be great!

Also, think there is some flexibility around the peak lapel style if there are any pictures that would serve as a good model for PeterLee (tailor)
 

classicalthunde

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What do you gentlemen think of this Suitsupply velvet blazer?
Yay or nay to be worn as black tie attire?

View attachment 1243152
I think it looks like it meets all the characteristics for a pretty classic dinner jacket...I wouldn't wear it to a super conservative black tie affair, but a fundraiser gala or holiday event i think it'd be perfect
 

psb

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What do you gentlemen think of this Suitsupply velvet blazer?
Yay or nay to be worn as black tie attire?

View attachment 1243152
If the event is not strictly formal or if the dress code does not explicitly state "black tie" there should be no problem wearing this dinner jacket. It looks very nice and elegant.
 

Concordia

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Do you guys think this fabric is too dark and coarse for a warm weather shawl lapel DB dinner jacket? Or should I opt for a more classic cream linen?
A little off-center, but so is pretty much everything else that isn't black. Unless you play in a summer orchestra or something like that.
 

classicalthunde

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If the event is not strictly formal or if the dress code does not explicitly state "black tie" there should be no problem wearing this dinner jacket. It looks very nice and elegant.
does "black tie" mean tuxes-only/no dinner jackets? I've always thought that the "black tie" dress code encompassed both tuxedos and dinner jacket combos...
 
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Concordia

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You mean a separate, odd dinner jacket. (In the UK, dinner jacket pretty much implies the whole suit).

Or, in the US, you have the following: one rents tuxes, purchases tuxedos at department stores, and has dinner jacket/suits made.
 

psb

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does "black tie" mean tuxes-only/no dinner jackets? I've always thought that the "black tie" dress code encompassed both tuxedos and dinner jacket combos...
In my understanding, black tie does.not allow odd combinations. The maximum is a night blue tuxedo suit instead of a black one.
 

culverwood

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I would not be surprised or offended to see any type of dinner jacket (smoking jacket included) be it black or not at a "black tie" event. Perhaps this is a UK/USA thing.
 

Faux Brummell

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For what it’s worth, it’s not uncommon to see velvet dinner jackets, black or other colors, at the exclusive Tuxedo Park Autumn Ball.
 
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classicalthunde

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I would not be surprised or offended to see any type of dinner jacket (smoking jacket included) be it black or not at a "black tie" event. Perhaps this is a UK/USA thing.
Yea, I've always noticed that the UK tends to be a half-step more formal. I would guess that probably 98% of Americans think that formal wear tops out at tuxedos as opposed to white tie/morning wear
 

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