The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Nov 22, 2011.

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  1. sftiger

    sftiger Senior member

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    I actually walked into a cheap Hong Kong tailor with this exact photo and had the tailor make me the DB waistcoat that the guy is wearing in this photo (it's from a Phineas Cole lookbook, which was mentioned earlier). Wasn't ready to spend lots of $$ getting it done by a real tailor, but thought it would be worth just trying out. It turned out exactly as mediocre as I thought it would, but I still wear it every once in a while to switch things up.

    Anyway, the reason I bring this up is that, if I were to do it again, I would get a single breasted horseshoe/U shape wasitcoat. I think black tie looks better when there is slightly more shirt front showing, and my double breasted waistcoat covers more shirt than I would like.

    Just my two cents.
     
  2. sftiger

    sftiger Senior member

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    I actually walked into a cheap Hong Kong tailor with this exact photo and had the tailor make me the DB waistcoat that the guy is wearing in this photo (it's from a Phineas Cole lookbook, which was mentioned earlier). Wasn't ready to spend lots of $$ getting it done by a real tailor, but thought it would be worth just trying out. It turned out exactly as mediocre as I thought it would, but I still wear it every once in a while to switch things up.

    Anyway, the reason I bring this up is that, if I were to do it again, I would get a single breasted horseshoe/U shape wasitcoat. I think black tie looks better when there is slightly more shirt front showing, and my double breasted waistcoat covers more shirt than I would like.

    Just my two cents.
     
    Last edited: Nov 30, 2012
  3. tgt465

    tgt465 Senior member

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    Worsted barathea is standard for eveningwear in England.
     
  4. akatsuki

    akatsuki Senior member

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    I think the U on the Paul Stuart is too high because of the 6x3. So I was going to do a 2x1 pattern U waistcoat - I am just using the pic as a bit of a guide. I do like DB waistcoats - it prevents a single line of buttons down the middle and adds a subtle bit of visual interest.
     
  5. Harold falcon

    Harold falcon Senior member

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    I have to take my girl to buy her a black-tie dress because we have an event to go to and she doesn't have one. Any suggestions for where to shop? I have access to the KOP Mall which has Nordstrom's and Neiman Marcus and Macy's and Lord & Taylor among others.
     
  6. Gdot

    Gdot Senior member

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    Lord and Taylor for the well made classics. Then Nordstrom for something more affordable.

    The advice for a cocktail dress is the same as for a men's suit. It's all about tailoring and fit.

    If she has a great figure there is nothing more successful than a well fitted 'little black dress', with the right accessories (bag and shoes).
     
  7. Harold falcon

    Harold falcon Senior member

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    This is kind of one of her Christmas gifts as well so I'll start at L&T. Thanks!
     
  8. TimelesStyle

    TimelesStyle Senior member

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    Has L&T gone upmarket in the last few years? I always thought of them as situated right in between Macy's and Bloomingdales, at least for men's stuff, when it came to fairly traditional clothes. I thought KoP had Bloomies, which is personally where I'd start.
     
  9. denning

    denning Senior member

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    Here's my humble contribution to this thread. Wore it to Rigoletto last night.

    [​IMG]

    Streilson tux (picked it up for $99 a few years ago)
    Zegna marcella bib shirt with fly front (no studs)
    Carrot and Gibbs satin bowtie
    Ralph Lauren cummerbund
    Thurston white moire braces
    Grenson patent leather shoes
    Random vintage smoked mother of pearl cufflinks
     
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2012
  10. ChiliPalmer

    ChiliPalmer Senior member

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  11. Needsmoreshoes

    Needsmoreshoes Senior member

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    Good god that Brioni is repulsively expensive

    Heading to a black tie event next week - several of my friends are wearing pre tied bows but taking proper ones in their pockets to sling round their necks later in the evening. I urged them to try tying their own but they seem to view it as a task comparable to cracking the enigma code...
     
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2012
  12. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    The coat is nice but the absence of studs is quite sad. I find that nice studs really can make the tux shine. On a tux, the studs are more visually important than cufflinks because there is a lot of empty space below the bowtie.
     
  13. TimelesStyle

    TimelesStyle Senior member

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    Were I to go sans-waist covering I'd only do so with such a shirt as a shirt with studs would show an awkward transition from studs to buttons about 2/3 of the way down. You also don't have the issue of most modern formal shirts having four stud holes but many vintage stud sets having only three studs.
     
  14. TimelesStyle

    TimelesStyle Senior member

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    Perhaps it's a typo? Particularly at that price I cannot imagine Brioni even making a garment that wasn't full canvased.
     
  15. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    The larger travesty is the fashion-y cut. Low-rise trousers, high button, gorge almost at the shoulders, bum freezer length... Ugh.
     

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