The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[The Chai]

I realize you've decided to go a different way, but I figured I'd weigh in anyways...

My first reaction is: you have regular "tuxedo" trousers, why not wear them? My second reaction is: I would bet money that no one would notice if you wore regular midnight blue trousers. additionally, I would think that a linen dinner jacket would be much easier to dress down and wear as a regular jacket than a dupioni one would be.

I think after the midnight DB DJ I will indeed go for a cream linen DJ. As for the regular DJ trousers I have this irrational fear I'll wear them out quickly which kinda goes contrary to my philosophy of abusing partay clothes...and black tie attire is after all partay clothes.

 

[The Chai]

On another note... I will probably get ridicule for this question but what do people think of the black turtleneck DJ look. I regularly wear turtlenecks with my suits...more so than dress shirts, especially during winters

 

[am55]

I think the same of it as the long tie look.

 

[am55]

If you want to do different, this is how you do different:

I've met few men that pull off the "fun black tie" idea better than Nicholas Atgemis, but then again he is an artist and a big R Romantic, and of course Aussie, so it works. It is so damn intentional (with a literal peacock), as intentional as Andy's perfect classicism.

 

[The Chai]

D

I think the same of it as the long tie look.

Duly noted...I was trying to go for the stereotypical Bond villain look

 

[am55]

In Perth?

You can achieve it with a bespoke DB and turtleneck, if you must... the silk facings are too much. If you like that style you may enjoy the instagram of Husbands Paris.

Depending on the interpretation, Bond *was* the villain in many of the movies. More here for the visually strong of stomach. Book length in all caps...

 

[Andy57]

I think after the midnight DB DJ I will indeed go for a cream linen DJ. As for the regular DJ trousers I have this irrational fear I'll wear them out quickly which kinda goes contrary to my philosophy of abusing partay clothes...and black tie attire is after all partay clothes.

I wouldn't worry about wearing them out, honestly. Even I don't wear formal trousers enough for that to be anything other than a long-term issue.

On another note... I will probably get ridicule for this question but what do people think of the black turtleneck DJ look. I regularly wear turtlenecks with my suits...more so than dress shirts, especially during winters

Don't. Seriously. Just don't.

 

[lordsuperb]

Don't. Seriously. Just don't.

Only if your italian...

 

[Andy57]

Only if your italian...

Arguably, the rollneck is the least of Luca's problems with that rig.

 

[The Chai]

Lol Mariano has the Don corleone cran necker lapel. Arguably that only looks good on the godfather

 

[UrbanComposition]

I wore a blackwatch tux with a turtleneck and velvet slippers to an anniversary party, but that’s about the only place I would.

 

[WillingToLearn]

Few quick questions for a guy that hasn't worn a tux in years, but is excited to have an occasion to commission one and wear it. Going with a midnight navy, SB, shawl collar (big sweeping shawl, not a little wimpy one).

I assume black is the default for the shawl facing? A
Any particular fabric recommended against a kid mohair/wool midnight navy?
Black tie and cummerbund (i may eventually get a vest, but won't have time now) are the standard still with midnight navy?
Any particular recommendations for a good, almost floppy bow tie? i am a big guy, so i think the tie needs to be relatively wide - like 8-9cm?
Does the cummerbund need to match the fabric of the tie if the color, relative sheen, etc. is close?
What do you all prefer in term of shirts - plain or ribbed? i don't see myself getting a bibbed?
Shirt fabric - a standard lightweight poplin OK for summer? i don't want a think twill


TIA

 

[Andy57]

Few quick questions for a guy that hasn't worn a tux in years, but is excited to have an occasion to commission one and wear it. Going with a midnight navy, SB, shawl collar (big sweeping shawl, not a little wimpy one).

I assume black is the default for the shawl facing? A

Yes, but it is possible to source midnight blue silk, either satin (which is what I used) or grosgrain

Any particular fabric recommended against a kid mohair/wool midnight navy?

Nothing wrong with mohair/wool.

Black tie and cummerbund (i may eventually get a vest, but won't have time now) are the standard still with midnight navy?

Yes, but, again, it is perfectly possible to source midnight blue accessories. I recommend Budd, but there are others.

Any particular recommendations for a good, almost floppy bow tie? i am a big guy, so i think the tie needs to be relatively wide - like 8-9cm?

Le Noued Papillon

Does the cummerbund need to match the fabric of the tie if the color, relative sheen, etc. is close?

Yes. the facings, tie, and cummerbund should all be either satin or grosgrain.

What do you all prefer in term of shirts - plain or ribbed? i don't see myself getting a bibbed?

Entirely up to you. Why not get a Marcella-front (what you call a bibbed shirt)? I honestly wouldn't go with a plain shirt--what's the point?

Shirt fabric - a standard lightweight poplin OK for summer? i don't want a think twill

Yes. Voile is another excellent option for a very lightweight shirt.

 

[lordsuperb]

Few quick questions for a guy that hasn't worn a tux in years, but is excited to have an occasion to commission one and wear it. Going with a midnight navy, SB, shawl collar (big sweeping shawl, not a little wimpy one).

I assume black is the default for the shawl facing? A
Any particular fabric recommended against a kid mohair/wool midnight navy?
Black tie and cummerbund (i may eventually get a vest, but won't have time now) are the standard still with midnight navy?
Any particular recommendations for a good, almost floppy bow tie? i am a big guy, so i think the tie needs to be relatively wide - like 8-9cm?
Does the cummerbund need to match the fabric of the tie if the color, relative sheen, etc. is close?
What do you all prefer in term of shirts - plain or ribbed? i don't see myself getting a bibbed?
Shirt fabric - a standard lightweight poplin OK for summer? i don't want a think twill


TIA

I did a blue satin shawl lapel on top of a midnight mohair for my rig. But I like Andy's suggestion for silk!!!! Sea island cotton for a shirt wears cool against the skin but its expensive. Have you thought about asking @gshen for a larger bow tie?

 

[Concordia]

Yes. Voile is another excellent option for a very lightweight shirt.

Or linen, if you want wide pleats or a bib from a more conventional cotton.