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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by TheFoo, Nov 22, 2011.

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  1. The Chai

    The Chai Senior Member

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    Yeah usually but I was discussing with my tailor as he said I didn’t have enough silk for a shawl collar and he told me he wasn’t gonna make one without a seam because that was the proper way to make one
     

  2. weriker

    weriker Member

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    Cf: https://www.bondsuits.com/variations-shawl-collar-dinner-jacket/

    It might be possible to do it without a center seam, but it doesn't seem very practical.
     

  3. Andy57

    Andy57 Distinguished Member

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  4. Andy57

    Andy57 Distinguished Member

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    Last night, in Valentine's Day attire:

    IMG_5390.jpg

    Featuring, on me, a new, hand-pleated shirt from Budd. First time in many, many years I've used a pleated shirt instead of a marcella-front one. My cummerbund is also from Budd.
     

  5. Concordia

    Concordia Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    Nice tie!
     

  6. Andy57

    Andy57 Distinguished Member

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    Thanks! It's one of Nicholas's.
     

  7. dan'l

    dan'l Senior Member

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    I checked and indeed mine has a seam in the back.
     

  8. am55

    am55 Distinguished Member

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    Talking of which, of course you cannot repost it yourself, but I shall: https://lenoeudpapillon.blogspot.com/2019/01/meeting-andy-poupart-in-milan-another.html

    Mr. Atgemis' warm and generous style is impossible to summarise, so here it is:
    "Andy turned up at the bar so meticulously dressed that I felt on the back foot. The only competitive advantage I had was that my peacocking was a distraction from the details. His studded shirt looked beautifully pressed, his shawl generous and sweeping. His bow tie, not exactly how I might tie it myself, was still very well put together. Plus he had a waist covering. [...] Even as I approached Andy he felt compelled to adjust my shawl which seemed too narrow on one side."

    [​IMG]
     

  9. Andy57

    Andy57 Distinguished Member

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    Thank you. One small correction to Nicholas's narrative: I felt no compulsion to adjust his jacket whatsoever, and did not. I believe he meant to refer to himself in that sentence. Regardless, it was a very pleasant meeting.
     

  10. The Chai

    The Chai Senior Member

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    Does anyone match the bow on their pumps with their bow tie and lapel facings? Or is that veering on ocd. Getting a shawl made with satin lapel and all my pumps have grosgrain bows...
     

  11. dan'l

    dan'l Senior Member

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    I posted a similar question a while back and received no reply. :(

    In the end, I purchased velvet pumps with patent leather trim and mini-bow, which seems to complement my satin lapel and bowtie better.
     

  12. am55

    am55 Distinguished Member

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    It's a question of philosophy, but these days I prefer not to match. It feels, as you mention, OCD. I guess the decision not to match is a form of OCD.
     

  13. The Chai

    The Chai Senior Member

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    Like for this commission I am having satin lapels but with grosgrain buttons because I personally dislike satin buttons and imo the slight subtle mismatch gives it a bit of character
     

  14. The Chai

    The Chai Senior Member

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    In this instance I already have two pumps with grosgrain bow. One patent and one calf
     

  15. JJ Katz

    JJ Katz Senior Member

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    I have twill (diagonal weave) and grosgrain black bowties. My facings are always grosgrain but I think they could go with satin.

    Where I think matching is more 'necessary' is in thr material of the lapel facings and the trouser stripe.
     

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