The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[brax]

But to be clear, my AE are these ones: not great and maybe not even good.


But nowhere near as bad as these AE which are truly bad all the way around:

 

[Concordia]

 

[am55]

This morning I was interested to see that the latest issue of Men's Ex, a Japanese men's style magazine, has a bit on formal / semi-formal wear.
View attachment 1100973

Showcases a thin shawl collar, very slim fit (typical for Japan) Brioni dinner suit. But otherwise starts off on a promising note with a primer on formal and semi-formal wear.
View attachment 1100974
View attachment 1100975
View attachment 1100976
View attachment 1100977

Then goes into a piece on a "party tuxedo" -- Turtleneck and purple velour dinner jacket.
View attachment 1100978

... and gives some suggestions on how to break the rules:

• Denim wing collar shirt.
• Cleric shirt and long tie.
• Turtleneck and odd vest.
• Black and white spectator shoes.
• Dressing up office shoes with ribbon laces.

View attachment 1100979


...

View attachment 1100980

Fortunately, you also have Joe Hisaishi.



Fan of the stiff collar, with wings worn properly (neither behind nor in front but above).

 

[martingfx]

But to be clear, my AE are these ones: not great and maybe not even good.


But nowhere near as bad as these AE which are truly bad all the way around:

They way I see it you either go full opera pump or you stick with oxfords. The models listed above look truly awful.
My next buy will be these ones from Arthur Sleep:

 

[paxonus]

They way I see it you either go full opera pump or you stick with oxfords. The models listed above look truly awful.
My next buy will be these ones from Arthur Sleep:

This would be my choice as well. The low vamp is classic and is what distinguishes it from a loafer. The bow is also preferable to a flat black strap, which again makes it look like a loafer.

 

[Concordia]

Lots of acceptable options, given that black tie is already sort of a mongrel relaxation of pure formal dress. But the pumps are very classic if you don't need to be walking the cobblestones. Back in the day (of Louis XIV), they were considered quite masculine, as well.

 

[Thin White Duke]

Lots of acceptable options, given that black tie is already sort of a mongrel relaxation of pure formal dress. But the pumps are very classic if you don't need to be walking the cobblestones. Back in the day (of Louis XIV), they were considered quite masculine, as well.

Yeah but so were giant fluffy men’s wigs and lace everywhere so that’s not the best metric for manliness is it?

 

[Concordia]

Hey-- not everyone can pull it off. No shame if you can't.

 

[Mark from Plano]

Sinatra never wore black tie without wearing opera pumps. I’ll take that as a standard for manliness.

 

[dan'l]

Happy new year all! I haven’t checked SF since before NYE, so it’s nice to read lots of interesting posts.

Speaking of pumps, I noticed that most have bows made of grosgrain. Is there a “rule” that the bow on the pumps needs to match the bow around your neck? I’m asking, since my DJ has satin facings and my bow tie is also satin...

@brax, FWIW, I also had the idea of the B&L loafers in black suede as an alternative to velvet pumps. I tried on their loafers a while back and they just didn’t fit my feet, so I never pulled the trigger.

 

[upr_crust]

Lots of acceptable options, given that black tie is already sort of a mongrel relaxation of pure formal dress. But the pumps are very classic if you don't need to be walking the cobblestones. Back in the day (of Louis XIV), they were considered quite masculine, as well.

Yeah but so were giant fluffy men’s wigs and lace everywhere so that’s not the best metric for manliness is it?

Louis XIV's pumps had high red heels (apparently, only the king's high heels could be red - sumptuary laws can be fascinating - limiting luxury items to only a given class or rank).

For myself, I don't like the look of pumps on me, but others can wear them and make them work.

 

[UrbanComposition]

My wife hated and mocked my pumps at first, but now prefers them over patent oxfords. What with the small bow, they are the perfect choice for black tie. I actually hate my patent leather oxfords, but I wear them with a DB peak lapel tux and they seem to go better with them than SB peak or shawl.

 

[Thin White Duke]

Louis XIV's pumps had high red heels (apparently, only the king's high heels could be red - sumptuary laws can be fascinating - limiting luxury items to only a given class or rank).

For myself, I don't like the look of pumps on me, but others can wear them and make them work.

Yeah I’m not a fan either. I have patent derbies but not fully comfortable with those either. Still mulling over what my optimal choose for black tie footwear would be but as I only get to dust the ol’ penguin suit off very rarely it’s not a high priority for me.

 

[ThinkDerm]

any interest in brand new patent laced edward greens for ralph lauren shoes or a similar styled c&j pair? fits about size us 10.5 to 11

 

[EFV]

I couldn't care less what's considered "manly", I like pumps because I find them visually appealing with black tie. If your sense of manliness is dependent on whether you wear pumps or oxfords with black tie, I'd say you might need complementary testosterone injections.