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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

am55

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I note that you say "could have bought." Did you stick with the basic version or did you buy the more indulgent ones?

I love how on SF white moire silk braces are somehow considered basic and utilitarian. . . . And I own a pair myself. I justify it, however, on the theory that I might have to give my jacket to my date to protect her when a super-villian takes over the casino and forces us out into the Alpine cold. Even jacketless, one still needs to look dashing, so moire silk braces are a must.
For black/white tie, I currently have two pairs of the white moire silk with silk loops. I ordered one pair, but there was some dirt underneath the shoulder clips or whatever the metal thing is called, so I sent the photos to Thurston saying they should improve their QC. Given the state of customer service at most other companies I didn't expect anything and just wanted them to know they might have a production issue. But the lady there told me to throw away my bad pair as a new one was being made and sure enough a few weeks later a perfect pair materialised in my mailbox.

I don't know what basic means in this context; to me the Thurston is as good as it gets (I guess they could have the metal parts be made of platinum? and I agree with Andy that ivory is also very nice, except they didn't have it with silk loops anymore). The function of holding up the trousers could be done by any type of braces, including those with clips; and there are goatskin-looped Thurstons (and cheaper brands) on eBay for a song, but they usually have little ducks on a red ground or something. I mention it does not matter because since your braces won't be seen, who cares about the little ducks? But I like nice things.

Being from the Alps, even in summer I would not leave the house in the evening without a coat. I remember water freezing in a friend's chalet at the height of the summer at night, even if during the day the air might reach 35 Celsius. I dislike casinos (and for that matter, the idea of the British interfering with my country's affairs - see De Gaulle's War Memoirs for the precedent, or the last 1000 years).
 

ericgereghty

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For black/white tie, I currently have two pairs of the white moire silk with silk loops. I ordered one pair, but there was some dirt underneath the shoulder clips or whatever the metal thing is called, so I sent the photos to Thurston saying they should improve their QC. Given the state of customer service at most other companies I didn't expect anything and just wanted them to know they might have a production issue. But the lady there told me to throw away my bad pair as a new one was being made and sure enough a few weeks later a perfect pair materialised in my mailbox.

I don't know what basic means in this context; to me the Thurston is as good as it gets (I guess they could have the metal parts be made of platinum? and I agree with Andy that ivory is also very nice, except they didn't have it with silk loops anymore). The function of holding up the trousers could be done by any type of braces, including those with clips; and there are goatskin-looped Thurstons (and cheaper brands) on eBay for a song, but they usually have little ducks on a red ground or something. I mention it does not matter because since your braces won't be seen, who cares about the little ducks? But I like nice things.

Being from the Alps, even in summer I would not leave the house in the evening without a coat. I remember water freezing in a friend's chalet at the height of the summer at night, even if during the day the air might reach 35 Celsius. I dislike casinos (and for that matter, the idea of the British interfering with my country's affairs - see De Gaulle's War Memoirs for the precedent, or the last 1000 years).
if you mean the braided ends (as opposed to the leather counterpart), Thurston, from my experience, will make you a pair with the braided ends, at no additional cost, beyond your willingness to wait for them to be made.
 

Dusty Heaters

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Gentlemen, I seem to have endured a stain/abrasion of some sort on the grosgrain lapel of my dinner jacket. Despite my best efforts to dab at it with a cold, wet, rag and brush out...it won’t budge. The pictures seem to embellish the mark significantly, but the best way I can describe it is a powdery white sheen that is noticeable in direct light. Could anyone offer any ideas on how I might remove it? I thought it was women’s makeup at first, given that’s generally the area makeup transfers when greeting/departing...but I’m not so sure.

5A381BFA-0532-4BCD-80D4-3FFABD0D888E.jpeg
E29C708D-1A1A-45C2-9585-2096481037B3.jpeg
 

Newcomer

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can describe it is a powdery white sheen that is noticeable in direct light. Could anyone offer any ideas on how I might remove it? I thought it was women’s

I actually have a little of that too - either makeup or deodorant - however, mine is substantially less noticeable, and it is on the fabric. I am considering sending it to Rave.
 

Andy57

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Sending it to Rave would be my advice, also.
 

sebastian mcfox

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Gentlemen, I seem to have endured a stain/abrasion of some sort on the grosgrain lapel of my dinner jacket. Despite my best efforts to dab at it with a cold, wet, rag and brush out...it won’t budge. The pictures seem to embellish the mark significantly, but the best way I can describe it is a powdery white sheen that is noticeable in direct light. Could anyone offer any ideas on how I might remove it? I thought it was women’s makeup at first, given that’s generally the area makeup transfers when greeting/departing...but I’m not so sure.

View attachment 903751 View attachment 903752
Yikes, would send to a specialist dry cleaner immediately
 

Caustic Man

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Good advice thus far. My only addition would be to say that if it can't be fixed wear the jacket with the same kind of aplomb that you would if it weren't there. Formalwear often looks too new, too put together, too advert-like. In a certain sense this isn't surprising since most of us wear formal clothes with less frequency than our least worn sport coat. Still, I like the idea of a tuxedo with a few scars.
 

Dusty Heaters

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I'm with you @Caustic Man -- I favor a slightly, yet intentionally, disheveled aesthetic; rakish I suppose. Errant threads, wrinkling, asymmetry, all indications of someone who's not just adorning articles of clothing...but wearing them with an air of (humble) confidence and belonging. I don't mind a little wear...but stains, to me, are disgusting. There's a fine line between lax and sloppy...and in my unfortunate circumstance it falls into the latter. Time to pay the piper.
 

brax

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I actually have a little of that too - either makeup or deodorant - however, mine is substantially less noticeable, and it is on the fabric. I am considering sending it to Rave.
I took my rig to Chris over Christmas and he got a stain out while we worked on other projects. My stain was on the lapel. Maybe take your jacket on a return trip home?
 

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I am actually planning to give Chris a call at some point this week, and I will likely talk to him about it then. I do not plan to head back to the "mothership" until later this year (I am operating on a 2 order at a time basis from here on out), so I wanted to see what he suggested. My "stain" - if you could even call it that - is something that, really, is only noticeable to me. I think others may have a good laugh.

Nonetheless, I definitely trust the jacket in his hands over others (even if I sent to Rave, I would probably ask that they send to Chris for pressing).
 

aj805

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@MrVenneri at whatever risk of stating the obvious, have you tried hitting it lightly with a garment brush? Things that look like stains--including actual stains and makeup--I've found come off remarkably easily with a good brushing.
 

Dusty Heaters

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@MrVenneri at whatever risk of stating the obvious, have you tried hitting it lightly with a garment brush? Things that look like stains--including actual stains and makeup--I've found come off remarkably easily with a good brushing.

I thought so too...though it seems to be some industrial strength product because I beat at the lapel like a fine rug and to no avail. I brushed with such force that I nearly did some minor damage to the grosgrain. Just my luck I suppose.
 

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