The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Nov 22, 2011.

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  1. smittycl

    smittycl Senior member

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    I bought my first tux last year. I was looking at some vintage Brioni on eBay and they matched the look you described above. Vintage seemed like a good option as tuxes don't really get too much usage unless the original owner was a bandleader or concert pianist I suppose. At the same time Ralph Lauren killed his Black Label and rolled them into the Purple line. Lots of RLBL went on deep discount so I got a new one there. Slimmer cut than I had originally looked for but it fits well and I can dance in it rather easily. :bigstar:
     


  2. Newcomer

    Newcomer Senior member

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    As an initial matter, thank you for the kind words about the wedding! We are excited as well (I am still getting used to this "we").

    I do not mean to be pedantic - but I believe (unless ctrl + F failed me) that I said dramatic as opposed to striking. I think there is a distinction. Striking suggests a degree of shock, often brought about from something atypical. Dramatic, at least to me, and in the context of a dinner jacket, suggests a strong, distinctive, shapely silhouette, with sweeping lapels, a long jacket, a large amount of shaping, etc. The novel features of a particular tuxedo should not cause you to stand out. For some reason I think of the Latin word princeps, the "first man." Each person is on a level playing field with the tuxedo. The end, with a tuxedo, is to be distinctive but still remain within certain predetermined parameters.

    I really like the A&S dinner jacket that you just posted. However, that dinner jacket, at least from my reading of your initial posts, does not jibe with what you initially intimated that you were seeking . It is certainly soft-shouldered, but that A&S is, on a spectrum between traditional and novel, is far closer to the former.

    I do not believe that any RTW offers you a great option. Bespoke typically offers the highest degree of shaping, which I believe is critical to black tie. Nonetheless, that is just my option. Black tie is in the details - and unlike a suit or a sport coat there are very few details to manipulate. At the end of the day, I felt like I was always compromising on something.
     


  3. jonathanS

    jonathanS Senior member

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    I feel like one will regret vented tuxedos eventually. With ventless you'll never regret.
     


  4. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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  5. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Senior member

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    You'll never regret it, unless you do, which is exactly how I'd feel with a ventless tuxedo lol.

    Funny how subjective things work :cool:
     


  6. Newcomer

    Newcomer Senior member

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    CM - for someone so persnickety about rules and tradition I am surprised by how cavalierly you approach the tuxedo :)
     


  7. Andy57

    Andy57 Senior member

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    I am a mass of contradictions.

    I'm wearing a dinner jacket to, well, dinner tonight. I'll post pictures if I get some. The jacket has no vents, of course.

    None of them, I would venture. I would think that almost all RTW brands reuse a regular suit pattern for their dinner jackets. Even brands for which you would pay far more than if you went bespoke.
     


  8. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    I'm not sure why you think I'm big on rules. Traditions, sure, but I've often said that rules are devices for people who don't know what they're doing. The best dressed people are ones who break rules in pleasing and surprising ways.
     


  9. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    Put me down as a late vote for ventless. More traditional and I think it looks better. I can't imagine needing to carry enough stuff around that vents would matter. I also don't think that a well fitting ventless jacket is uncomfortable.
     


  10. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    Andy, apropos of nothing, how goes the quest for the white dinner jacket?
     


  11. Andy57

    Andy57 Senior member

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    Plus, since when was the purpose of vents to enable you to carry a bunch of stuff in your pockets?
     


  12. Andy57

    Andy57 Senior member

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    My new ivory dinner jacket gets its maiden outing tonight, as a matter of fact!
     


  13. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    Awesome!
     


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