The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Nov 22, 2011.

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  1. musicmax

    musicmax Senior member

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    The three-button backless vest allows for the white triangle as well as the option of unbuttoned comfort, assuming the construction of the jacket allows it to still follow the torso.
     


  2. blackbowtie

    blackbowtie Senior member

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    I'm not sure if BB still stocks tailcoats. The BB store I usually go to used to have them in the formalwear section but on my last visit (a month ago) they are no longer there. And as you said, the tailcoat used to be available on-line but not anymore.

    I was looking at your list: did you forget gloves? The few guys that were in white tie at the balls all wore gloves. It was not clear to me what kind of material the gloves were made of though. People on this forum have mentioned white dress gloves made of leather (BB makes them), but I figured that would be really uncomfortable for the lady you're dancing with, especially if she's wearing a backless gown. Your thoughts?
     


  3. Van Veen

    Van Veen Senior member

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    In the past I've noticed the formalwear items come and go on the online store. (e.g. I just picked up a black batwing bow tie in the post-Xmas sale, but it's no longer there. The self-tie white tie has also disappeared and reappeared frequently.) Hopefully this isn't permanent because I will be in the market for new tails soon.
     


  4. musicmax

    musicmax Senior member

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    Yeah I didn't do gloves at the wedding because the other men in the wedding party wore tails as well and I didn't want them to incur the expense of purchasing gloves that they'd never wear again (I had a pair of those $8 cotton ones and I wouldn't wish those on anyone!).
     


  5. sftiger

    sftiger Senior member

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    The BB flagship at 346 Madison had tailcoats last time I checked.
     


  6. Testudo_Aubreii

    Testudo_Aubreii Senior member

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  7. Parterre

    Parterre Well-Known Member

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    I read that and started foaming at the mouth.
     


  8. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Senior member

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    That article is generally not bad, I don't know why you are getting upset about it. Sure it says that peak lapel rather than shawl is the default, and it doesn't really go into shoes. But it emphasizes that black tie shouldn't be difficult, you should wear clothes that fit, always wear a bow-tie, and don't go in for gimmicks like wearing black shirts, trainers or wacky colours.
     


  9. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    I think it's more the picture which suggest two-button for a SB and has no waist covering.
     


  10. Parterre

    Parterre Well-Known Member

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    "Sacrifice mobility... high armhole?" No waistcovering? Two buttons? Pocket flaps? The peak lapel is just about the only thing right with that rig. But I guess in today's context, it's far better than what we usually see. Maybe,
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2012


  11. blackbowtie

    blackbowtie Senior member

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    I think there is something in making waist covering sort of "optional". Especially when you are doing a lot of dancing and need to stay cool. If I have to make do without one component of the prescribed and correct black tie outfit, it would be the waist covering, as long as I keep my jacket buttoned through the evening.

    But I thought high armholes give you more mobility, not less?
     


  12. Testudo_Aubreii

    Testudo_Aubreii Senior member

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    Yep. Also :facepalm: are the endorsement of 2B jackets, the claim that shawl lapels are more fuddy-duddy than peak lapels (shawl is more louche and casual than formal peak), and the requirement that the trousers have moderate break. Many, perhaps most, well-dressed men like their trousers to have no break at all.
     


  13. blackbowtie

    blackbowtie Senior member

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    I guess, by the standards of this day and age, we should probably be grateful that they are talking about black tie at all.
     


  14. TimelesStyle

    TimelesStyle Senior member

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    I'm sure they weren't even thinking about this, but I could get behind having slightly more break on a tuxedo trouser if the wearer is also wearing evening slippers or pumps. With a regular oxford a trouser with virtually no break sits atop the shoe nicely and contributes to a continuous flow. With the less substantial pump or slipper that continuity is lost if there is no break, particularly since there's space to see more sock.
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2012


  15. Van Veen

    Van Veen Senior member

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    1. The thing that kills me about this article is that they say nothing about wearing a formal shirt, studs, or cufflinks.

    2. The big problem with the waist covering being "optional" is that most of these (Gyllenhaal, Clooney) either go for low-rise trousers, or aren't wearing suspenders, so the pants slide down. This article constantly harps on a "clean" look, and it's definitely not clean if you have your jacket buttoned and there's shirt/waistband visible below the buttoning point, Both those guys look sloppy because of it. The trousers should be tailored to look good with the jacket... It doesn't matter what they look like without it. It seems to me like guys are looking for suit trousers that are cut like jeans to avoid the Bill Hader-as-Clint Eastwood highwater look, which destroys the overall look with the jacket on.

    3. Looking at the gallery, the best example they have is Gerard Butler (waistcoat, 3 studs showing, short-medium break). It's hilarious to me that they slam Pitt for pants that are too long, and praise Clooney in the next photo when he has the exact same problem. (Pitt's trousers just need a hem, but if Clooney were wearing suspenders, he might be OK.)
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2012


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