The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[F. Corbera]



I rarely wear any suit jackets unbuttoned, except when sitting, for this reason.

Interesting. So, you always keep the jacket for your three piece suits buttoned?

 

[Kent Wang]

Hmm. No, I keep them unbuttoned some of the time, but usually buttoned when walking outdoors, perhaps primarily to keep out the cold, but also to prevent flapping. But I see your point. Well put.

 

[TimelesStyle]



^^^ A really well-fit jacket shouldn't flap around like that.

While I'm sure it would be considered overkill, I suppose one could always take their coat and waist covering to a tailor and have buttons attached to the waist covering and loops sewn into the lining of the jacket so as to fasten the two together and keep the jacket in place. I tend to agree with you, though, that a jacket that flaps around when open will look equally poor when buttoned. Someone whose jacket is cut to accommodate a substantial gut may be the exception, in which case I'd suggest going double breasted.

 

[F. Corbera]



Hmm. No, I keep them unbuttoned some of the time, but usually buttoned when walking outdoors, perhaps primarily to keep out the cold, but also to prevent flapping. But I see your point. Well put.

Well, it's not really a right or wrong thing. There isn't a "rule" about it. FWIW, I almost always keep my SB jackets buttoned....except when there's a vest.

 

[Digmenow]



my studs don't match my links but I would stay away from red, or really anything other than gold, silver, black or white.
These are the ones I wear.
http://www.bensonandclegg.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22_33&products_id=386

Too precious? They do seem to be the requisite color.

 

[Manton]

too cute for me

 

[TheFoo]



If there was a Bowring Arundel boot camp, I would enroll you.

ORLY?

Men's Wearhouse:

Some guy:

 

[jaya]

I have noticed that many younger people (I am 42) have started dressing better and there interest have changed over the last few years. I belong to a fraternity that does wear black tie on a semi regular basis. I know of some that even wear white tie on a regular basis. I tend to wear a tuxcedo a few times a year just for that. There are opertunities out there for black tie. And I live in a small town that is only 6 square miles.

 

[Kent Wang]

Too precious? They do seem to be the requisite color.

Don't wear novelty cuff links, just as you would not wear a novelty tie. Also, only wear double-sided cuff links.

 

[F. Corbera]



ORLY?

Everyone: listen to Foo. Don't do it like the Mens Wearhouse photograph. Do, indeed, like Fred..

...more point in the collar...not a spread...with the points meeting the lapels rather than dangling a la the MW guy.

 

[F. Corbera]



And I live in a small town that is only 6 square miles.

Sounds vaguely Babylonian. How high are your city walls?

 

[TheFoo]



...more point in the collar...not a spread...with the points meeting the lapels rather than dangling a la the MW guy.

Dangling or not, the points add a degree of unnecessary visual complication when they reach below the bow tie. That's why Fred looks better in my picture than yours. The bow tie looks thoughtfully integrated, rather than pinned on top of the collar. I don't know where you found the rule that the collar points should show. This fella is equally baffled:

 

[F. Corbera]



Dangling or not, the points add a degree of unnecessary visual complication when they reach below the bow tie. That's why Fred looks better in my picture than yours. The bow tie looks thoughtfully integrated, rather than pinned on top of the collar. I don't know where you found the rule that the collar points should show.

I made the mistake of not describing it well, and you have justly lambasted me.

I could try to describe it better, but you have done such a good job that my effort to be clearer would be of little consequence aside from noting that all of the collars that you have shown are semi-spread or point, as I suggested.

 

[TheFoo]



I made the mistake of not describing it well, and you have justly lambasted me.
I could try to describe it better, but you have done such a good job that my effort to be clearer would be of little consequence aside from noting that all of the collars that you have shown are semi-spread or point, as I suggested.

Hmm--what am I not understanding? I thought you were saying the collar points should show below the bow tie, at least a little bit. My position is that it looks better when they don't show. In that regard, the degree of collar spread is a factor, but not solely determinative. The size and shape of the bow tie and the fit of the jacket also make a difference. Ultimately, if it's done "right" in my book, the spread of the collar will actually be indiscernible, as the points will be hidden by the bow tie. It's just that it is typically necessary to use a more spread collar, as opposed to a more pointed collar, to achieve such a result. In the photos I posted of Astaire, Connery, and Cary Grant (below), I don't think one can tell how spread their collars are, precisely because the gentlemen went Foo over Vox.

 

[TheFoo]

I don't like black studs. You can achieve virtually the same contrast with a dark gemstone, like a garnet. At night, no one will really detect anything more than a hint of color, and only if they are looking closely. Yet, you wind up with a slightly more eccentric, less uniform (but still uniform enough) uniform.