The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Nov 22, 2011.

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  1. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

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    Interesting. So, you always keep the jacket for your three piece suits buttoned?
     
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2012
  2. Kent Wang

    Kent Wang Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Hmm. No, I keep them unbuttoned some of the time, but usually buttoned when walking outdoors, perhaps primarily to keep out the cold, but also to prevent flapping. But I see your point. Well put.
     
  3. TimelesStyle

    TimelesStyle Senior member

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    While I'm sure it would be considered overkill, I suppose one could always take their coat and waist covering to a tailor and have buttons attached to the waist covering and loops sewn into the lining of the jacket so as to fasten the two together and keep the jacket in place. I tend to agree with you, though, that a jacket that flaps around when open will look equally poor when buttoned. Someone whose jacket is cut to accommodate a substantial gut may be the exception, in which case I'd suggest going double breasted.
     
  4. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

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    :) Well, it's not really a right or wrong thing. There isn't a "rule" about it. FWIW, I almost always keep my SB jackets buttoned....except when there's a vest.
     
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2012
  5. Digmenow

    Digmenow Senior member

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  6. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    too cute for me
     
  7. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    ORLY?

    Men's Wearhouse:

    [​IMG]

    Some guy:

    [​IMG]
     
  8. jaya

    jaya New Member

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    I have noticed that many younger people (I am 42) have started dressing better and there interest have changed over the last few years. I belong to a fraternity that does wear black tie on a semi regular basis. I know of some that even wear white tie on a regular basis. I tend to wear a tuxcedo a few times a year just for that. There are opertunities out there for black tie. And I live in a small town that is only 6 square miles.
     
  9. Kent Wang

    Kent Wang Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Don't wear novelty cuff links, just as you would not wear a novelty tie. Also, only wear double-sided cuff links.
     
  10. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

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    :laugh:

    Everyone: listen to Foo. Don't do it like the Mens Wearhouse photograph. Do, indeed, like Fred..

    [​IMG]

    ...more point in the collar...not a spread...with the points meeting the lapels rather than dangling a la the MW guy.
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2012
  11. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

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    Sounds vaguely Babylonian. How high are your city walls?
     
  12. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Dangling or not, the points add a degree of unnecessary visual complication when they reach below the bow tie. That's why Fred looks better in my picture than yours. The bow tie looks thoughtfully integrated, rather than pinned on top of the collar. I don't know where you found the rule that the collar points should show. This fella is equally baffled:

    [​IMG]
     
  13. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

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    I made the mistake of not describing it well, and you have justly lambasted me.

    I could try to describe it better, but you have done such a good job that my effort to be clearer would be of little consequence aside from noting that all of the collars that you have shown are semi-spread or point, as I suggested.
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2012
  14. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Hmm--what am I not understanding? I thought you were saying the collar points should show below the bow tie, at least a little bit. My position is that it looks better when they don't show. In that regard, the degree of collar spread is a factor, but not solely determinative. The size and shape of the bow tie and the fit of the jacket also make a difference. Ultimately, if it's done "right" in my book, the spread of the collar will actually be indiscernible, as the points will be hidden by the bow tie. It's just that it is typically necessary to use a more spread collar, as opposed to a more pointed collar, to achieve such a result. In the photos I posted of Astaire, Connery, and Cary Grant (below), I don't think one can tell how spread their collars are, precisely because the gentlemen went Foo over Vox.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2012
  15. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    I don't like black studs. You can achieve virtually the same contrast with a dark gemstone, like a garnet. At night, no one will really detect anything more than a hint of color, and only if they are looking closely. Yet, you wind up with a slightly more eccentric, less uniform (but still uniform enough) uniform.
     

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