The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Nov 22, 2011.

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  1. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

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    Sounds like you're doing well.

    1. Most of the Italian and English collars that guys are calling "spread" collars on SF are more "semi-spread." A true spread collar is awful for a bow, because the bow will obscure the collar entirely. A semi-spread or a tennis/point collar works better.

    Here's Alexander Kabbaz's "collar rendering system," which shows the variety possible:

    [​IMG]

    Anyway, you want the edge line of the collar to follow the bottom edge lines of the bow, ideally peeking just a little when you tie the bow, which will droop a bit into the evening. [* Sentence edited to reflect ass-kicking by :foo: later on in this thread.]

    2. I have no suggestions for studs or links. Get what you like. On the first go, simple is better than complicated, serious better than humorous. Many prefer high contrast (thus, black) for the dress set; other's, not. If you're undecided, consider reversable studs, like the ones that Forum Affiliate and Black Tie Guide quoter Kent Wang carries. But really, you can make do with even a very inexpensive dress set, and given that you're approaching this from a thrifting angle, check eBay. It makes more sense to put money or effort into a good shirt and acceptable shoes rather than the dress set at this point, I think.
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2012


  2. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    my dress studds cost me £10 in 1991
     


  3. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

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    The pound was high against the dollar then, though.
     


  4. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    plus I was a near-broke student.
     


  5. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

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    It's never too late to be both again.
     


  6. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    you know, the thing about learning to cook is, I can always get a job where they feed you twice a day. So that leaves a little pocket money. And, I don't need to buy new studs unless I lose these.
     


  7. Digmenow

    Digmenow Senior member

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    This is no longer about my needs, is it?
     


  8. The Thin Man

    The Thin Man Senior member

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  9. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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  10. TimelesStyle

    TimelesStyle Senior member

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    Well, I doubt I'd have much issue with that given the fit of my jacket and the fact that I'm relatively flat-fronted (so won't get that bit of "spread" on the jacket below the button); the real reason I'd wear one is that I prefer wearing shirts with studs and absent a waist covering one would see one or two plastic buttons below the studs when my jacket is unbuttoned. And even though my jacket is SB/PL I'd still opt for a cummerbund because I'm afraid a waistcoat would be too bulky (jacket is reasonably fitted) and that the height of a waistcoat could be awkward since my DJ buttons a bit higher than some (though not "high" as was trendy a couple of years ago with makers like Hickey).
     


  11. TimelesStyle

    TimelesStyle Senior member

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    I actually think matching stud and link sets looks a bit hokey, but I know some will disagree. I do prefer to match background metals, though. My stud set is gold plated and the fronts are onyx and MOP "stripes" and I'll either wear plain gold Tiffany links or else a set of vintage brass links with black and white enamel.

    Regarding a little color, I think it's ok as long as it's not bordering on whimsical. And speaking of color, I'm also not a huge fan of just MOP because I believe if you're going to wear studs you should go with something contrasting. Otherwise just use a fly-front shirt with a flap covering the buttons - getting dressed will be quicker and there's no chance of losing a stud at the event or forgetting one if you're traveling.
     


  12. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Eww. You do? I go out of my way to avoid that. Blegh. Let me go vomit.
     


  13. Kent Wang

    Kent Wang Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Manton, I'm curious to know your thoughts about the necessity of keeping a SB coat unbuttoned or not.

    My concern about the unbuttoned coat is just that it flaps around when moving. I rarely wear any suit jackets unbuttoned, except when sitting, for this reason.
     


  14. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    ^^^ A really well-fit jacket shouldn't flap around like that.
     


  15. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

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    If there was a Bowring Arundel boot camp, I would enroll you.
     


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