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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Nov 22, 2011.

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  1. WICaniac

    WICaniac Senior member

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    This is exactly what I wear, partly because it's available in multiple widths, partly because these have to perform double duty as civilian and military evening wear (i.e. tux & dress mess). I don't dispute the point that a balmoral (especially a wholecut) looks more elegant (ranking behind only the opera pump), but I don't buy for a moment that these are not "proper" for evening wear. I can't vouch for the gentleman who suggested that bluchers are considered more appropriate in central Europe--although a cursory search for images of "smoking Schuhe" turns up plenty of bluchers. I can say, however, that only bluchers or formal chukkas (open laced, of course) are permissible in American dress mess, and I'm fairly certain the same is true in the UK. Black Tie Guide (for what it's worth) considers patent bluchers to be in accordance with "the rules."

    I would suggest that this is a matter of taste vice propriety. My preference is balmorals, but there is absolutely nothing wrong with these. I'm with everyone else when it comes to notch lapels, garish cummerbunds, etc.--but I think the tendency to look askance at patent bluchers is misplaced.

    In answer to J011yroger: it's by no means mandatory that a plain-toe patent formal shoe be open laced. As you may gather from my comments, plenty of people on this thread would argue the exact opposite. As for the prevalence of patent bluchers in the marketplace, I think culverwood's point about ease of fitting is accurate.
     
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2014


  2. J011yroger

    J011yroger Senior member

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    Cool, I don't have an opinion really either way. I was asking because I thought it odd.

    I personally have opera pumps and captoe Balmorals so purchasing these would be superfluous, not that that has stopped me in the past, ever, at all.

    J
     
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2014


  3. denning

    denning Senior member

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    In reference to the discussion about green dinner attire, PTO just had a post the other day that included this green velvet smoking jacket.
    [​IMG]
     


  4. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

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    That's exactly the smoking jacket I want!
     


  5. J011yroger

    J011yroger Senior member

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    OMFG! Make it two!

    J
     


  6. TheWraith

    TheWraith Senior member

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    I have one like that in blue.
     


  7. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    The Duke of Windsor bottle green corduroy dinner Jacket (I believe it had a U cut waistcoat in the same material)

    [​IMG]
     


  8. chobochobo

    chobochobo Rubber Chicken Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    I think I'm getting less fussy in my old age. I'm going to wear my TF tux for my wedding - three piece, SB peak lapel, U shaped low cut DB vest - I can't even remember if there are vents and don't really care anymore :) It's being altered for a better fit. I was going to get one made in midnight blue, but probably won't.

    Footwear is going to be even more 'relaxed' - I have a pair of Ede and Ravenscroft patent oxfords and Wildsmith calf pumps with a square bow, but I'm probably going for either a G&G Deco black stingray or a pair of alligator wholecuts. I'll use silk ribbon laces. Being where I am now, no one will notice and I'm betting that 99.9% of people will think that the exotic skins will be more 'appropriate'. Sorry! :)
     


  9. babygreenspots

    babygreenspots Senior member

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    I think velvet, exotic skin, or even fabric is usually more attractive for footwear than patent leather. What about tasseled footwear with dinner wear?
     


  10. J011yroger

    J011yroger Senior member

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    Kill it with fire!

    J
     


  11. OTM

    OTM Senior member

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  12. J011yroger

    J011yroger Senior member

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    I think they are too casual for even a suit unless you are in your 50s or 60s, and even then it would have to be a really casual suit. Like a lighter gray plaid or check.

    J
     


  13. archetypal_yuppie

    archetypal_yuppie Senior member

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    In practice these tend to fit like a bath robe (total lack of structure), and be baggy and unflattering. Unless the one pictured is built entirely differently from what I've seen at Paul Stuart and elsewhere.
     


  14. J011yroger

    J011yroger Senior member

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    Look at the shoulder roping.

    J
     


  15. archetypal_yuppie

    archetypal_yuppie Senior member

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    Anything on a mannequin, or catalogue/posed photo for that matter, can be made to look very different from how it will actually wear. I'm not saying that one won't have some structure, but the mannequin picture is no guarantee... There is nothing stopping the photographer from putting some padding on those shoulders.

    The Paul Stuart ones look great in the catalogue, but are completely floppy in real life.
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2014


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