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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Nov 22, 2011.

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  1. WICaniac

    WICaniac Senior Member

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    +1
     


  2. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Distinguished Member

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    A third opinion for jacket yes, full suit, no.

    I think a waistcoat of the same colour would work under it, but I would be sure to do the same faced lapels on it as well, so you don't get green-black-green-white when the jacket is closed.
     


  3. cbbuff

    cbbuff Distinguished Member

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    Rule #1: There really are no exceptions to proper black tie. The minute you start thinking "I could jazz this up a bit with...." just stop and remember rule #1
     


  4. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Distinguished Member

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    It depends how formal the event is, and whether it is, truly, strictly black tie. I would certainly say that you should start with proper black tie when you first buy, and vary with new pieces, if you like, and wear them to appropriate places. I would wear it to anything other than one of the two most upscale charity balls, here in Vancouver.

    I actually quite want a smoking jacket, with frog closures, in that same kind of green colour.
     


  5. 32-20

    32-20 Active Member

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    Except midnight blue. All I'm proposing here is a midnight green, on an otherwise completely orthodox dinner suit. Or jacket - if there's such thing as semi-semi-formal I think bottle green might fit nicely into that category.
     


  6. cbbuff

    cbbuff Distinguished Member

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    Midnight blue qualifies as proper black tie. You have every right to wear whatever you wish. It just won't be black tie.
     


  7. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Distinguished Member

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    The same way you would wear a white DJ. You get dressed as per usual, in your midnight, or black, pants, your regular shirt, tie, cummerbund/waistcoat, and so on, and, at the end, put on the green jacket instead of the regular one.

     


  8. mink31

    mink31 Senior Member

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    After buying my black tie rig, I've realized that it's become something of a money pit. "Excuses to wear black tie" for me are almost exclusively charity events, to which tickets will start at $100 (if I'm lucky). Therefore, the cost of "wearing black tie" becomes $600 or so dollars per year - almost as much as I spent on the outfit to begin with!

    I believe that for most people - who might need to wear black tie once or twice in their life - renting makes the most sense. Unless of course, you're a SF member and care deeply about quality, fit, etc., or you're rich enough to actually need to wear black tie on a regular basis for charity events.
     


  9. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Distinguished Member

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    Most places you can get ex-rental for about as cheap as renting, though. You may still be wearing a low quality dinner suit, but, once altered, it'll be one that fits.
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2014


  10. J011yroger

    J011yroger Senior Member

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    Dude, do what you want, but you asked our opinion, and we gave it.

    J
     


  11. 32-20

    32-20 Active Member

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    And I've taken it into consideration. I'm now trying to figure out a degree of formality between black tie and a lounge suit - in other words, a smoking jacket fit for wearing out in public. Bottle green is unconventional and therefore less formal, but that doesn't mean it's exiled from that stratum of formality, any more than a brown lounge suit is left with norfolks and blazers. Both are at the margins of their class, but remain within it, just about. Maybe you dislike this concept, but you can't dismiss it with a "Dude..." and a shake of the head.
     


  12. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Distinguished Member

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    With respect to the whole what is and is not black tie discussion, I'm of the opinion that unless you are going to a lot of black tie events, it is best to stick to a standard conservative black tie rig (black peak / shawl lapel tux, tuxedo shirt, plain toe oxfords or pumps, etc.). Deviations from this do make one's outfit less formal and less correct. Midnight blue is an acceptable variation for one's primary black tie rig as well. Wearing a velvet jacket in a dark color can work as a casual change of pace but it should not be one's go to outfit (hence you need to have enough of these things to go to in order to make the purchase of another black tie jacket worthwhile).

    For the poster pondering the dark green velvet jacket, please only get this as a jacket and wear it with regular tuxedo trousers. A dark green velvet tuxedo with satin lapels and stripes on the trousers would be hideous (the smoking jacket with regular tuxedo trousers may work). Also make sure you have a regular tuxedo before you start playing with more "fun" items.


    Interesting. I find that what ends up happening is I go to the same events but end up wearing a tuxedo to the black tie optional ones rather than wearing a dark suit. I don't think I've gone out of my way to buy tickets to events that require black tie.
     


  13. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Distinguished Member

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    I agree with @archibaldleach that a velvet dinner jacket is best used as an addition to your Black Tie wardrobe, rather than a first piece. @32-20 , if you're wanting to wear it in other contexts, consider self-faced lapels, which makes it viable as both a minimally formal DJ, and a blazer. If you do silk-faced lapels, I think grosgrain would work better than satin, personally. Grosgrain's lower sheen is a little more staid, which, I think, would work better with a fabric, and colour, that are going to stand out. That would mean you should also have grosgrain, or braid, down the trousers' outer seam, not satin.
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2014


  14. 32-20

    32-20 Active Member

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    I've come around to the view of getting a basic black dinner suit to start with, since if I got the trousers on their own, it would be difficult to find the precise match in fabric if I wanted to add a jacket later. Slightly cheaper to have them made as a pair, too.
    However, I never intended to wear a velvet dinner suit. Velvet in general repels me, as does corduroy and suede. Something about the gloss...

    So, to ask a new question, having rethought my premise:
    How do you feel about a bottle green smoking jacket in worsted wool, to be paired with an otherwise traditional black tie outfit, with a black jacket in reserve for more serious occasions?
     


  15. J011yroger

    J011yroger Senior Member

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    That would be slick, classy, and unique.

    J
     


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