The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Nov 22, 2011.

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  1. Digmenow

    Digmenow Senior member

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    You're welcome and make sure to include closeups of the studs/links!

    So only one in a thousand is not black! :nodding:

    I've been hella busy and I haven't seen your fit pics in a while. Are you still bearded, as well? :lol:
     


  2. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    Well played, Dig.
     


  3. barrettdudley

    barrettdudley Senior member

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    Thoughts on these to be worn with a tux? Too fashion-y? They are a dark grey, not black.

    Would I be better off with the black balmoral from Kent Wang? I don't love the shape of those.
    [​IMG]
     


  4. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    Do you want to wear classic black tie? If yes, then no. If that's not a concern, then it's really up to you...
     


  5. barrettdudley

    barrettdudley Senior member

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    I don't want to wear patent. I would like to be able to wear them with a black tuxedo and look proper though.

    Any suggestions? (preferably under $400)
     


  6. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

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    They are a deviation, but as the style is correct, if you do everything else classic, they will add a little personality to a classic rig. But all your other details should be spot on. I think a covered waist is especially important in this case, as an exposed waist will draw the eye to the navel, and then the eye will be drawn to the unusual shoes, whereas you want the slightly lighter shoes to be a subtly different detail.

    What is your budget? I'm sure lots of people will have shoe suggestions for you.
     


  7. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

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    Looks like we were posting at the same time. Any black calf skin, highly polished Balmoral Oxfords (the style in the picture) are perfectly acceptable, and you can find them everywhere from under $100 to thousands of dollars. Try zappos.com; their prices are very good, and their return policy is just as good, which means, if they do not fit, you can send them back and get something else. I bought my CK formal slip ons from Zappos, and have no complaints.
     


  8. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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  9. barrettdudley

    barrettdudley Senior member

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  10. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    Blacktieguide.com says:

     
    Last edited: Dec 10, 2013


  11. zeero3

    zeero3 Senior member

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    Finally purchased a tuxedo that fits me. I think the hardest purchase now will be the shirt. I'd like to hear opinions on pros/cons for both the pleat front shirt and the marcella shirt.

    From what I gather, the marcella is the dressier of the two, but would likely be harder to have made up as the bib would need to end at the proper point. The pleat front shirt seems much more comfortable but less formal. I'm sure both are acceptable, but I'd really love to hear some opinions on which people prefer and why.

    Also, if anyone is a 38R, the price has been drastically cut on a beautiful luxury tuxedo in my signature (shameless plug).
     


  12. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    I like the marcella. I bought a shirt from Luxire, and it worked out quite nicely.
     


  13. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

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    I love my Marcella shirt. I'm not big on pleats, myself; I find they can be a bit busy. I was orginally planning on a flat front, before I learned about Marcella, and decided on it as soon as I learned about them. Perfect compromise between wanting a simpler front, and wanting some decoration. The bib on mine goes all the way into my waistband, presumably designed so it can be worn without a waist covering, meaning it requires five studs. Fortunately, only three show above my waistcoat, so it isn't a problem. I just use two cheap studs for the bottom two. Got it from clermont direct; cheap and quite good.
     
    Last edited: Dec 10, 2013


  14. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    Both a marcella front or a pleated front are made as a bib and should be ideally made up in line with a jacket and waist covering to avoid bulk building up, both around the sides and bottom edges. Having said that, most RTW shirts have longer bibs that will end well under the cummerbund or waistcoat, so choosing either one will not resolve the problem, and actually the pleated front are slightly bulkier. I have a Charvet pleated front (RTW), a bespoke covered front placket and have both a marcella and linen flat bib on order (not sure when these will be completed), I think a flat bib is suitable to more occasion and do sit better if starched. If you can find it (Charvet makes them RTW, but other must do to), consider a linen bib and collar and cuff facing instead of marcella as is more unique but equally correct. Finally, if whatever you choose comes with more stud holes then what you need, and therefore these will be covered, considering adding permanent buttons to the extra holes (the button will be sew on the under pannel stud hole and could either be sew on one edge of the stud holes so that studs could be still used later, or better, to both edges of the holes, helping closing it shut).
     


  15. culverwood

    culverwood Senior member

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    I wish people would not always refer to blacktieguide.com but use their own experience and opinion. Although the website is a fine piece of research it was only started in 2008 by a good man who had been looking to improve his black tie for an earlier cruise but it seems to have become the indisputable rule-book for many here. I am one who thinks that black tie continuously evolves and trying to fix it in the mid 20th century is wrong and a waste of time.
     


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