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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Nov 22, 2011.

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  1. J011yroger

    J011yroger Senior member

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    Long Island, NY
    Are you stealthily covering a second button and flap pockets with your arms?

    I wouldn't consider black captoes as breaking the rules unless they were punch caps or had some broguing.

    That is a pretty cool dinner jacket, I love ones that have some texture to them.

    J
     
  2. reidrothchild

    reidrothchild Senior member

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    No, not covering anything. I never quite know what to do with my hands when "modeling" for SF. The jacket is silk, single button, ventless, with jetted pockets. Thank you for the kind words; I really liked the texture as well. It's a little different without being too bold. My shoes were AE 5th Ave's with the punch cap, so breaking the rules a little.
     
  3. Gajsek

    Gajsek Senior member

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    Slovenia
    Hello,
    I've been meaning to post this for a long time, but never got round to it.
    I have, since I came here (to Edinburgh) for my further studies, realised that I'll be in need of a proper dinner jacket, since there are quite a few events hosted by the university or various student societies, that require it. So I went about through the numerous charity shops here (and there a re truly many, many dinner jackets to be had... Among other things I passed up an Armani tux. After reading the Black Tie Guide back to back in a few days I felt ready, and indeed, if I remember correctly, I found a very nice, quite old dinner suit in a very short time. (A day or so. But I did check around 25 shops...)

    Would anyone have any idea how old this might be? It seems quite to very old to me, but I'm far from sure. One clue to its age is the fact that it's a 3-piece. And that the company by which it was made stopped work in 1985, I think.
    It's fully canvased, ad made of a heavy, very soft, and breathable barathea wool fabric (too old to be synthetic. And much too fine). It's unbelievably comfortable. I mean, I've even ran in this suit...
    It was probably a nice off the peg suit. (as it has tags in all separate pieces and lacks surgeon cuffs. It's only a guess, though.)

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    The price was 35GBP, plus tailoring - I had to have some things altered, and the lapels were originally grosgrain (quite worn out at the edges and peaks) and have been changed for a matte satin (it was much cheaper, because the tailor salvaged it from another job.).
    I have two extra waist coverings(they were very cheap, found in charity shops):
    [​IMG]
    Silk satin cummerbund (Burberry's, made in England, 10GBP, I think)
    [​IMG]
    Cotton velvet double-breasted waistcoat (no tag, 10GBP)

    And the details (to help identify the age):
    [​IMG] Curved breast pocket

    [​IMG] Brand - Baronia.

    [​IMG] Other tags are gone, like this one (there was a tag in the waistcoat pockets, and the trouser back pocket)

    [​IMG] Link closure.

    [​IMG] Waistcoat (with a new back)

    [​IMG] Trousers - double forward pleats, brace buttons on the outside, braid on the side.

    [​IMG] Trouser closure

    [​IMG] Pleats, pocket, braid details.
     
  4. Belfagor

    Belfagor Member

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    New York
    I wore this a few times -- it never felt gimmicky. Visually it's a bit unusual at first, but very quickly looks natural. I stopped wearing it, not because of costumey concerns, but because I think you need fairly flat abs for it to really look good: you have to go unbuttoned for its full effect, and the jacket hanging loosely at my sides wasn't as flattering as it buttoned up


    [​IMG]
     
  5. YRR92

    YRR92 Senior member

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    Yeah, walk right in (I don't know the hours, but circa lunchtime is always good). Their Ivy Style exhibit (with book of the same title) was great, and the one on the '30s is on the list -- luckily, it's close enough to Penn Station that I can drag my friends there.
     
  6. Veremund

    Veremund Senior member

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    Nice find!
     
  7. Veremund

    Veremund Senior member

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    And that in a nutshell is why the black waistcoat was invented and paired with dinner suits. It's more flattering for more people.
     
  8. J011yroger

    J011yroger Senior member

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    @gajsek That is a beautiful suit, well done.

    J
     
  9. J011yroger

    J011yroger Senior member

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    Question: I have a pair of trousers that look ok with Oxfords, but too short with pumps.

    Is this normal? Do I just not know how they are supposed to look?

    J
     
  10. J011yroger

    J011yroger Senior member

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    Also, so you can share in my awkward moment; I went to fasten said trousers and with great alarm thought to myself "Oh my god, how much weight could I possibly have gained?!"

    And then I realized that I was trying to fasten the waist to a suspender button.

    J
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2014
    2 people like this.
  11. Veremund

    Veremund Senior member

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  12. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Senior member

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    This jacket is absolutely great. I'll do an identical from my tailor.
     
  13. DavidHarley

    DavidHarley Member

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    I think tuxes are coming back! People want to live more in the now and have fun. Forget the crisis, let's wear black tie!
     
  14. chobochobo

    chobochobo Senior member Moderator

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    Today I received a pair of black Alligator wholecuts (Carmina Rain last) from a fellow SF'er (thanks). They look great, and they'll be my wedding/ black tie shoe, rather than my patent oxfords or calf pumps.
     
    2 people like this.
  15. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    photos?
     
  16. J011yroger

    J011yroger Senior member

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    I have dinner out with the fellas at least once per week and I'd have no qualms about wearing black tie once a week or so.

    J
     
  17. chobochobo

    chobochobo Senior member Moderator

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    A quick and nasty photo, just for you.

    I was a bit concerned that the Rain last would be a bit too blobby, but it's great.

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    I like :)

     
  19. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Need to buy some braces. Which do you all prefer for black tie: black or white braces?

    Is white the preferred color here?


     
  20. chobochobo

    chobochobo Senior member Moderator

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    Cheers, I was originally going to go for a Stingray G&G wholecut but they're out of black Stingray and can't guarantee it for a specific date.
     

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