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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Nov 22, 2011.

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  1. J011yroger

    J011yroger Senior member

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    Am I correct in the assertion that burgundy bowtie and cummerbund is proper with a cream DJ?

    J
     
  2. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

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    Would a gauntlet used to mimic a turnback be considered a bit gauche? The first time I watched Dr. No, I noticed, and loved, the detail on Connery's dinner jacket in the scene at the card table, where we first meet Bond. I wanted to have silk turnback cuffs, on my DJ, but I was a little concerned about there not being enough length in the sleeve (my tailor was only about 75% sure he could make it work), and the lining is viscose, and I didn't really want to feature a synthetic fabric on the turnback. I thought about adding material to get the look I wanted, but decided not to invest any money in something I wasn't really sure about. At the time, I figured it could always be added later, or done on another jacket in the future.

    On the one hand, I figured it would be unnoticeable, unless someone was examining the lining of my jacket. On the other hand, I thought maybe this is just faking it, and a little offside.
     
  3. J011yroger

    J011yroger Senior member

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    Gauche is my middle name.

    J
     
  4. Roycru

    Roycru Senior member

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    As we are discussing white dinner jackets and posting older pictures of white dinner jackets, here are my parents (second and fifth from left) on a Caribbean cruise in 1960, when everyone owned both white and black dinner jackets and when ships still looked like ships rather than looking like one of Saddam Hussein's palaces......

    [​IMG]
     
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  5. Nine Miler

    Nine Miler Senior member

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  6. mingus2112

    mingus2112 Senior member

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    I wish there were still cruises like this. I went on a cruise with some friends last year and brought several suits and a dinner jacket. We "suited up" ever night for dinner (I was the only one with a dinner jacket, so I ended up not wearing it) and we were completely out of place with the other passengers. Most of the men were dressed like they were ready for golf at a fancy country club. :brick:
     
  7. TheWraith

    TheWraith Senior member

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    ^ I know what you mean. Makes you feel like you're born in the wrong generation :confused:
     
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  8. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

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    I'm awaiting the funny looks at the symphony (in the dress circle), and Opera, when I go in black tie next month.
     
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  9. Midnight Blue

    Midnight Blue Senior member

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    The burgundy bow tie is the only historically accepted alternative to black/midnight blue but even so you must be very careful with a matching cummerbund as it's a slippery slope to prom-dom. Avoiding a white DJ in favour of cream is a good start. Also make sure that the bow tie is self-tied and I would recommend staying away from the 1980s wing collar shirt.

    [​IMG]
    1947

    [​IMG]
    1948

    [​IMG]
    1951
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2014
  10. J011yroger

    J011yroger Senior member

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    What manner of tie is the leftmost man wearing? J
     
  11. J011yroger

    J011yroger Senior member

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    I've not yet found a cream colored dinner jacket that I like yet.

    A nice single button with a fat shawl collar would be great, and I think they look so rich with a deep burgundy tie/cummerbund.

    Matching burgundy pocket square is over the line I feel.

    J
     
  12. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Senior member

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    It's a 'continental' or 'crossover tie'. Althought similar ties were also worn in the Victorian period, when there was still a plethora of different types of neckwear and before neckwear was more standardized, these were actually introduced by tie manufacturers in the 1950s and were reasonably common through the 60s and then sort of died out.

    See this link - scroll to the bottom of the page.

    [​IMG]
     
  13. J011yroger

    J011yroger Senior member

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  14. Roycru

    Roycru Senior member

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  15. J011yroger

    J011yroger Senior member

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    I certainly wouldn't entertain wearing one, I was just asking because I had not seen one outside of a Western setting.

    I was bored and looking through plain toe patent shoes and they all seem to have open lacing.

    What gives? Is that a must when there is no toe cap?

    You would be hard pressed to fill a teacup with my shoe-making knowledge, so this may be a dumb question, but I'm learning by the week.

    J
     
  16. Midnight Blue

    Midnight Blue Senior member

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    What a wonderful photo. This was the twilight of elegant black tie as formal wear entered a very dark period by the mid Sixties. Can you imagine this photo if it had been taken just ten years later? (shudder). I don't suppose you know which ship this was taken on?
     
  17. Roycru

    Roycru Senior member

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    The picture was taken on Stella Polaris........

    [​IMG]
     
  18. culverwood

    culverwood Senior member

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    By open lacing I think you mean a Derby/Blucher type shoe. There are two reasons I suspect for this being the most common patent lace up shoe. The first being that as patent is less flexible than normal leather and as such shoes are not being sold in large numbers these days a derby shoe is more adaptable in terms of width and height of instep of the shoe. The second is that provided there are only a couple of lace holes the front of the shoe is cleaner than an Oxford type shoe and more suitable for black tie.
     
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2014
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  19. J011yroger

    J011yroger Senior member

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  20. Tried and True

    Tried and True Senior member

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    I've seen that ilk worn a few times over the years with great success. If memory serves, they were worn at private events by a couple of royals and a fashion designer. Valentino was the designer and Mountbatten was one of the royals.
     

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