The source of Drakes knit ties

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by radicaldog, Aug 18, 2012.

  1. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    8,365
    Likes Received:
    4,552
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2011
    Location:
    Washington, DC


  2. Sam Hober

    Sam Hober Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    1,297
    Likes Received:
    265
    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2005
    Location:
    Chiang Mai, Thailand
    


    Unbelragazzo,

    You are correct - we don't use knit fabrics currently.

    Knits ties typically are knitted in long tubes like an open sock.

    We do not make any ready made ties and it will take some time for us to be able to customize knit ties - but this is something on the horizon for us - eventually we will make bespoke knit ties.
     


  3. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

    Messages:
    2,668
    Likes Received:
    2,097
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2011
    Location:
    Madrid
    If the tie was from one of El Corte Ingles' brands (Emidio Tucci, Atelier F&B, or Canovas Club) it would be hard to tell where it comes from, as they get their ties from many different manufacturers... those brands are pretty basic, though.
     
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2012


  4. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

    Messages:
    2,638
    Likes Received:
    43
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2009
    

    Of course there are (I've got most of those and others myself). But there are also virtually identical weaves and qualities across brands. By the way, I didn't know that Hober did knits. I can't find them on his website.
     


  5. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

    Messages:
    2,638
    Likes Received:
    43
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2009
    

    Yes, but this tie was the only one of its kind in the store. I'm quite confident that the brand was Ascot.
     


  6. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

    Messages:
    2,638
    Likes Received:
    43
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2009
    

    It would be brilliant if one could pick a solid knit and also the colour for hand-stitched dots. Looking forward to this.
     


  7. E TF

    E TF Senior member

    Messages:
    999
    Likes Received:
    246
    Joined:
    May 29, 2011
    Location:
    Herts, U.K.
    Sean O'Flynn sells a small selection of rather nice knit ties, supplied by Drakes (or via Drakes, from wherever they get them from). Interestingly they're completely different from the ones Drakes sell themselves.
     


  8. Sam Hober

    Sam Hober Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    1,297
    Likes Received:
    265
    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2005
    Location:
    Chiang Mai, Thailand
    

    Radical Dog,

    Thank you for your suggestion - we do something similar currently with our bar tacks.

    If there was interest in custom dots we would probably start with our grenadine silks and offer squares in addition to dots.
     


  9. davesmith

    davesmith Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    6,175
    Likes Received:
    592
    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2011
    Location:
    London, UK
    Getting custom spots on knit ties is no problem since they are sewn after the fact.
     


  10. Cary Grant

    Cary Grant Senior member

    Messages:
    9,673
    Likes Received:
    406
    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2008
    Location:
    Knee deep in curds
    

    Sure- just like Drake's and Emma Willis' used to be.
     


  11. Sam Hober

    Sam Hober Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    1,297
    Likes Received:
    265
    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2005
    Location:
    Chiang Mai, Thailand
    

    DaveSmith,

    You have me curious - is this something you have done or have watched done?

    I am unclear what you mean by "after the fact".

    If I were going to sew spots on a grenadine tie by hand today I would do it just after cutting the silk, and before the tie was folded.

    With a knit maybe the same way - but I am not sure - it depends on how we had the fabric knitted.
     


  12. davesmith

    davesmith Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    6,175
    Likes Received:
    592
    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2011
    Location:
    London, UK
    Never seen it done, maybe one day. What I mean is the opposite of a Berg & Berg tie, where the tie and spots are the same and cannot be separated. I am not sure of the exact time when the spots are sewn on but it is after the solid tie is woven. In the brown Rubinacci tie you can clearly see the spots sewn into the weave of the knitted tie. (Not sure if my terminology is correct, let the pictures doe the talking!)

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
     


  13. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

    Messages:
    2,638
    Likes Received:
    43
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2009
    I would guess it's easier to sew the spots before the tie is stitched together at the back. But I really don't care -- I just want to order my own combinations of tie and spots!
     


  14. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    16,118
    Likes Received:
    1,088
    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2005
    Location:
    Tombstone
    

    Yeah, I acknowledge there are differences, but my interest in that goes only so far. I don't care how crunchy they feel or what loom they're weaved on. My concern is durability (to a point) and aesthetics, nothing more. I can't see paying twice as much for one brand as another if the differences are only noticeable when I stroke the silk with my fingers or look at it with a loupe. My Charvets are nice, but I can't say they're worth the premium over my Polos.
     


  15. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

    Messages:
    2,638
    Likes Received:
    43
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2009
    

    Fair enough. I actually didn't buy any knits when I was in Charvet last spring because they seemed identical to some middle-market ones I have from various brands (e.g. Howard Yount -- but maybe this is a recent development), and costed more (btw, most of the other ties in Charvet are shiny monstrosities). Excluding the completely flat Jersey weaves (which are a different style altogether), it seems to me that there are four different kinds of silk knits:

    1 - Almost flat and light, a sort of piquet weave. These are sold by cheaper retailers such as TM Lewin, and I consider them too ugly to wear.

    2 - Crunchy and airy: I have some of these by Borsalino, Les Copains and Polo. I really like them.

    3 - Crunchy and loose: this is the Howard Yount variety. Many other brands sell these. They're not bad at all and I wear them happily.

    4 - Crunchy and tightly woven: this is the Drakes variety. I consider them a better version of (3) and slightly more formal than (2) and really like them.

    I wear 2, 3 and 4 (and the odd jersey weave), but 4 give me that little extra satisfaction when I tie them. I don't claim that this in any way reflects an objective superiority of those ties.
     
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2012


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by