Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by radicaldog, Aug 18, 2012.
Don't think Hober does knit ties.
You are correct - we don't use knit fabrics currently.
Knits ties typically are knitted in long tubes like an open sock.
We do not make any ready made ties and it will take some time for us to be able to customize knit ties - but this is something on the horizon for us - eventually we will make bespoke knit ties.
If the tie was from one of El Corte Ingles' brands (Emidio Tucci, Atelier F&B, or Canovas Club) it would be hard to tell where it comes from, as they get their ties from many different manufacturers... those brands are pretty basic, though.
Of course there are (I've got most of those and others myself). But there are also virtually identical weaves and qualities across brands. By the way, I didn't know that Hober did knits. I can't find them on his website.
Yes, but this tie was the only one of its kind in the store. I'm quite confident that the brand was Ascot.
It would be brilliant if one could pick a solid knit and also the colour for hand-stitched dots. Looking forward to this.
Sean O'Flynn sells a small selection of rather nice knit ties, supplied by Drakes (or via Drakes, from wherever they get them from). Interestingly they're completely different from the ones Drakes sell themselves.
Thank you for your suggestion - we do something similar currently with our bar tacks.
If there was interest in custom dots we would probably start with our grenadine silks and offer squares in addition to dots.
Getting custom spots on knit ties is no problem since they are sewn after the fact.
Sure- just like Drake's and Emma Willis' used to be.
You have me curious - is this something you have done or have watched done?
I am unclear what you mean by "after the fact".
If I were going to sew spots on a grenadine tie by hand today I would do it just after cutting the silk, and before the tie was folded.
With a knit maybe the same way - but I am not sure - it depends on how we had the fabric knitted.
Never seen it done, maybe one day. What I mean is the opposite of a Berg & Berg tie, where the tie and spots are the same and cannot be separated. I am not sure of the exact time when the spots are sewn on but it is after the solid tie is woven. In the brown Rubinacci tie you can clearly see the spots sewn into the weave of the knitted tie. (Not sure if my terminology is correct, let the pictures doe the talking!)
I would guess it's easier to sew the spots before the tie is stitched together at the back. But I really don't care -- I just want to order my own combinations of tie and spots!
Yeah, I acknowledge there are differences, but my interest in that goes only so far. I don't care how crunchy they feel or what loom they're weaved on. My concern is durability (to a point) and aesthetics, nothing more. I can't see paying twice as much for one brand as another if the differences are only noticeable when I stroke the silk with my fingers or look at it with a loupe. My Charvets are nice, but I can't say they're worth the premium over my Polos.
Fair enough. I actually didn't buy any knits when I was in Charvet last spring because they seemed identical to some middle-market ones I have from various brands (e.g. Howard Yount -- but maybe this is a recent development), and costed more (btw, most of the other ties in Charvet are shiny monstrosities). Excluding the completely flat Jersey weaves (which are a different style altogether), it seems to me that there are four different kinds of silk knits:
1 - Almost flat and light, a sort of piquet weave. These are sold by cheaper retailers such as TM Lewin, and I consider them too ugly to wear.
2 - Crunchy and airy: I have some of these by Borsalino, Les Copains and Polo. I really like them.
3 - Crunchy and loose: this is the Howard Yount variety. Many other brands sell these. They're not bad at all and I wear them happily.
4 - Crunchy and tightly woven: this is the Drakes variety. I consider them a better version of (3) and slightly more formal than (2) and really like them.
I wear 2, 3 and 4 (and the odd jersey weave), but 4 give me that little extra satisfaction when I tie them. I don't claim that this in any way reflects an objective superiority of those ties.
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