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The shrunken suit

Holstein Bilter

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http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/articl...LV9U1ERE7F.DTL





Editor's note: A recent photo of J. Crew's shrunken suit had readers asking, "I'd love to know whether this represents high fashion or is a bad joke?" Style asked Pocket Square columnist Aaron Britt.

The suit silhouette popularized by designer Thom Browne - a slim-fitting gray number whose short sleeves and cropped cuffs leave no joint to the imagination - has resounded across the men's sartorial landscape. Huck Finn-height clam diggers and slim slacks are de rigueur for the fashion set, resulting in breakless pants, sockless ankles and broken-in brogues.

Add in record summer heat (in places that actually see the sun) and you've got the ingredients to keep tailors in needles and chalk. I say, why not?

With the sagging-trousers set slumming in the Financial District during working hours, a flash of sharp tailoring (and just a bit of skin) not only suggests the suit wearer is paying attention to things sartorial, but also has enough sense to know when and how to separate himself from the un-dry-cleaned masses.

A suit is all about respectability, and respectability is rarely bold. But a sense of proportion - the fit in the shoulders and around the middle still count for much in the shrunken suit - and just a bit of panache set apart those in the passing lane from those who are merely passable. An eye for subtle detail is critical, too: A crisp, white shirt with a simple pocket square will do. As ever, tailoring says more than your tie ever need try to.

The shrunken suit addresses the biggest problem American men have with their duds: fit. The last time I checked, "comfortable" isn't a style. And if clothes were cars, most men would be wandering around in Astro vans. The shrunken suit might then be the Smart Car - undoubtedly snug, but zippy, knowing and unerringly now

Read more: http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/articl...#ixzz0wtoILXUi


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Thoughts from the forum?

Here are some comments from SF Gate readers:

bsesf 4:45 PM on August 1, 2010
Is this the what NOT to wear picture?

itsaspork 12:05 PM on August 1, 2010
Nice suit - did you borrow that from your little brother?

nastij 9:29 AM on August 1, 2010
Aren't those pants a little "high-water" - i.e., too short?
 

UrbanComposition

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I am a fan of tailored clothing, but there are just so many things wrong. If the jacket sleeves are short, then the shirts sleeves should be shorter as well; the top dude has his entire cuff hanging out. At least his pants have a higher waist - the bottom dude's pants are practically falling off. It's all about proportion, and these models are seriously lacking it.
 

Macallan9

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Originally Posted by UrbanComposition
I am a fan of tailored clothing, but there are just so many things wrong. If the jacket sleeves are short, then the shirts sleeves should be shorter as well; the top dude has his entire cuff hanging out. At least his pants have a higher waist - the bottom dude's pants are practically falling off. It's all about proportion, and these models are seriously lacking it.

 

VictorJB

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I do like the high water look when pulled off correctly. I just do not see how this will be acceptable in the work force on a day to day basis. On top of that it doesnt look comfortable to be working an 8 hour day with those tight of pants. Style points, yes! But I dont know about for an everyday use !
 

Twotone

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PeeWee's back (in a porn theater near you)!

Twotone
 

a-rock

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We should email that columnist and suggest to him some other super current mens fashion trends to write about.

- Skinny black suit
- Designer jeans (TR, R&R, 7FM)
- Fedoras
- Popped collars
- Keffiyehs
 

suitedcboy

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You guys missed it completely! This is the new Ebay seller got the size wrong and won't give my money back look.
Some designers saw this look on the streets and thought they'd capitalize on it.

In a previous fashion cycle it was the Appalchian I outgrew my hand-me downs look (see Jethro of Beverly Hillbillies).
 

bowtielover

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I do appriciate a well tailored suit but this is just all wrong. The pants and sleeves of the jacket are way too short. He looks likes the result of a cheap father getting his money's worth out of a cheat department store suit he got for his son several years back, just awful.
 

rgoldstein

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See, I get what these designers are trying to accomplish with this look, but why not just hem the pants a tad longer so they cover the ankles? I feel like it would be more appealing to the masses. I'd totally wear those looks with proper length pants (and probably a shorter sleeve shirt, but maybe not). It justs ruins it.
 

cptjeff

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Originally Posted by rgoldstein
See, I get what these designers are trying to accomplish with this look, but why not just hem the pants a tad longer so they cover the ankles? I feel like it would be more appealing to the masses. I'd totally wear those looks with proper length pants (and probably a shorter sleeve shirt, but maybe not). It justs ruins it.

Because Thom Clowne is being 'cool' and 'edgy' and can't be bothered with the question of if it actually looks good or not.
 

madstaxbro

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I don't like it. It was interestingly bizarre at first but now that it's getting older, it's losing what little draw it had. Like an almost equally hilarious contrast to the zoot suit.
 

Ianiceman

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Reminds me of George Costanza in his high school prom tux. Ridiculous.
 

GBR

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Fashion does the world no favours with this wretched 'suit'.
 

Blackhood

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I rather like it; "fashion" is and always has been at odds with "style". A fashionable youngster has stupid hair and this kind of suit. He goes to SoHo parties and sleeps with both men and women, while taking a weeks worth of E in one night.

Stylish youngsters use classic looks, with well tailored clothes. He sits cafes drinking coffee with women.

Without Fashion suits there would be no Stylish suits; a coin is no good if it only has Heads.
 

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