The Shirt Jacket Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by dieworkwear, Mar 12, 2013.

  1. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Yea. I'm not sure about the box pleats.

    They were amenable to your idea of an action back (the inverted pleat down the middle, or the bi-swing?) on a shirt?

    Inverted pleat illustration here --

    http://www.rapha.cc/content/uploads/timesuit.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2013
  2. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    By inverted box pleat, I mean the inverted pleat you see on the back of that Rapha jacket. By action back, I meant more the bi-swing design.

    And yes, Chang was willing to do the pleat. I haven't asked about the bi-swing, but I don't think that'll be a problem. I'm just not fully sure I want to do it, though I like how the inverted pleat right now allows more movement. I think I can achieve the same degree of movement with a bi-swing, but get a cleaner looking back.
     
  3. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    What did you get your shirt-jackets made out of? Wool? Linen?

    Did you get bellow pockets on yours?

    Any idea what that cream number (pic 2) is made out of? I like it. Has a colonial-esque however, but looks good. Can see myself pairing it off with tan trousers and a panama hat.
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2013
  4. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    Mine's made from a blue linen from Solbiati. Though I think W Bill and Brisbane Moss has some really nice options. Slewfoot introduced me to the Moss stuff. It's a bit more loosely woven and textured than the few linens I've seen from W Bill, but theyre really nice and sponge-y.

    The two bottom pockets on mine are bellowed.

    The second cream jacket by Panico is made from cotton. Cotton drill, if I remember correctly. It was truly fantastic.
     
  5. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I understand the term Spalla Camica, but they are still jacket sleeves. see where the seams are. down the back of the sleeve.

    Where did you get Solbiati Linen. They produce fantastic linen!!!
     
  6. lawyerdad

    lawyerdad Senior member

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    A number of years ago GetSmart posted pictures of cool shirtjacket he had Jantzen make to his specifications. If I were a more adept searcher or less selfish and lazy I'd find them for you.
     
  7. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    That's great to hear they get the Carl stamp of approval. I'm not an expert on fabrics, but they do seem like nice linens. Mine came from Ascot Chang. I simply asked if they had some blue linen appropriate for a shirt jacket, and they sent two big swatches, both from Solbiati. One a slightly dark French blue and the other navy. I choose the first.


    Thanks LD. I'll see if I can't find it.
     
  8. MikeDT

    MikeDT Senior member

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    These ones are definitely safari jacket styles, quite like them myself. I like jackets with four symmetrical pockets. I think they're often called leisure jackets, or leisure suits if they have matching pants. Very popular in the 1970s...remember Leisure Suit Larry?

    Here's one in the Chums catalogue..
    [​IMG]
    30 GBP, machine washable, 100% pure polyester. :slayer: And is described as "safari jacket".
    http://www.chums.co.uk/.ALDON-CLASSIC-SAFARI-JACKET_MA166.htm
    Would be interesting to know if they're actually making this garment, or they found a warehouse full of NOS ones from circa 1978. Could be the latter.
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2013
  9. YoungAmerican

    YoungAmerican Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I actually just ordered two shirt jackets from Carl (Shirtmaven).

    My mom (who's an antiques dealer and buys and sells a lot of textiles) bought some gorgeous old checked wool flannel. Sort of like a smaller version of a tablecloth check, one in cream and red and one in cream and blue.

    I thought about something like this Pendleton:

    [​IMG]

    but ending up going with something like this, but with a less sporty, more upright collar:

    [​IMG]

    Like DieWorkwear mentioned, I find this kind of thing really useful... it's something to wear when you want to have a finished, layered look, but you don't want to have the formality of a coat or coat and tie.
     
  10. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    That looks really great, Jesse. By more upright collar, do you mean like the kind of collar you'd find on a shirt, with a collar band?

    Any other details on the design? I really like how those bottom pockets have been designed in the second photo you posted.

    Speaking of Pendleton, last year they re-released their popular Topster model from the 60s. Slightly different from their basic shirt jacket, which I think many people are most familiar with.

    [​IMG]
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    Last edited: Mar 13, 2013
  11. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    yes they are jacket like sleeves
    but that was not your initial critique:
     
  12. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    i don;t understand
    your definition of
    'finished... look'
    these look like something
    a logger would wear
     
  13. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    Pendletons are definitely more of an American thing, and not for everyone. I have an overshirt by them. I admit I hardly wear it - maybe just a couple of times in the year, and always in the fall with jeans - but it can look nice in certain contexts.

    I recently bought this Patrick Ervell shirt jacket, which is somewhat similar, but less lumberjack-y. The wool is loosely woven and feels a bit rough. Inside has a cotton quilted lining, which isn't something I ever would have thought for a bespoke piece, but can now see it being a nice feature on certain patterned tweeds. Other details include cupro sleeve linings, two chest pockets, and MOP buttons.

    [​IMG]
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    I'm intrigued by the two bottom pockets on the second Pendleton Jesse posted, and wonder if there might not be other fabrics that this design could work with.
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2013
  14. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    A few more shirt jackets for inspiration.

    [​IMG]
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  15. YoungAmerican

    YoungAmerican Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    you sm likee a classee guy bt i gess im not?

    oh welll i will justt have to mddle thru somehoww in my logger cloze :(
     

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