The Shell Cordovan, non-Alden Shoe and Boot Thread

[Blastwice]

An example of unusual creasing on Horween shell (left shoe):

 

[Watchman1]

I “think” that happens when the maker doesn’t construct the shoe/boot with the grain moving the correct direction. I’m not a shoe maker by any means.

But, I’m sure it’s due to what I said. FWIW, I have a pair of CJ which do this too

 

[MajorDash]

That could be, but I've never personally seen it before. I wasn't perturbed enough by it to ask for a refund or anything. It just is slightly disappointing, especially since it is a light color shell and it is noticable to me from eye level.

 

[Blastwice]

It happens on my calf and horsehide shoes, too. Sometimes on my right foot, sometimes on my left. But then in other pairs, not at all.

My shoemaker and I have not diagnosed the reason to our satisfaction yet.

 

[mdubs]

View attachment 1927681

^These WT boots from Alden were Ravello (made in 2011 I think). I offloaded them due to fitting issues. I have not seen a batch of Ravello like this in many, many years.

@mdubs how long has it been since Alden did a run of this old school Ravello?

Those are looking sharp. The golden hour does make them look a lot like my Amarettos. I would say that the color changed more towards the darker in the 2013 timeframe across the board.

-Mike

 

[marklin]

I thought I remembered them saying the hides which had blemishes in the leather, when I say blemishes I mean like a horse had a pimple or brushed up against a fence and scarred itself...those hides got dyed darker shades.

I could be wrong, but I thought I remembered them saying only the most "clear" hides got dyed natural, whiskey, saddle, etc.

Again, no expert, but I just share what I have experienced.

A number of folks on other forums have intentionally sun faded their darker shells & discovered imperfections as they lightened up.

 

[TheLawBeard]

A number of folks on other forums have intentionally sun faded their darker shells & discovered imperfections as they lightened up.

I’ve also been told that printed/embossed shell is typically done on non-perfect hides.

 

[Jazzmenco]

Here's something different from Tanino Crisci using cordovan from an Italian tannery. Another color on the palate
Here is a link to all the colors available in shell.

All the Colors of the Shell Cordovan Rainbow

From Amaretto to Whiskey, we've got all the colors that you can find of the formidable shell cordovan leather.

heddels.com

Forgive me if this link has already been posted.

 

[TheLawBeard]

Here's something different from Tanino Crisci using cordovan from an Italian tannery. Another color on the palate
Here is a link to all the colors available in shell.

All the Colors of the Shell Cordovan Rainbow

From Amaretto to Whiskey, we've got all the colors that you can find of the formidable shell cordovan leather.

heddels.com

Forgive me if this link has already been posted.

Just a heads up- that's nowhere near close to all of the shell colors available these days. Off the top of my head it's missing bronze, mocha, denim, aquamarine, armagnac, color 16, and probably a bunch of others I missed.

 

[Watchman1]

Those are looking sharp. The golden hour does make them look a lot like my Amarettos. I would say that the color changed more towards the darker in the 2013 timeframe across the board.

-Mike

^Here they are in indirect lighting.

 

[stephenaf2003]

Meermin Horween dark cognac

 

[stephenaf2003]

C&J’s Lindrick

 

[smfdoc]

View attachment 1927595

^This pic showcases the difference between old and new cognac. These are CJ for RL. Same shoe but very different colorations. The one on the left represents contemporary cognac/cigar while the shoe on the right is the old version.

Now, this same variation is also present in the Alden cordovan color scheme as well. One can easily find old pics before 2013 when the shades were much lighter.

Don't get me wrong, new cigar/cognac is great. The point here is these pairs showcase the overall darkening of cordovan hides over the last decade across all makers.

The shoe on the left was made around 2013/14 while the shoe on the right was made 2010 or before. (NOTE: the "Polo" logo is present on the footbed on the pair on the right)

Cheers!

Crazy difference. Since both are the same style, I was wondering if they have the same style number? Both are great in their own color, but I can see how one would be upset if the buyer was expecting one color from a previous purchase of the same shoe and got the other color.

 

[Watchman1]

Crazy difference. Since both are the same style, I was wondering if they have the same style number? Both are great in their own color, but I can see how one would be upset if the buyer was expecting one color from a previous purchase of the same shoe and got the other color.

AFAIK, yes, same style and #. These are the CJ for RL “Marlow” which sadly are discontinued.

Nevertheless, the “Pemboke” is the current CJ offering which is available from time to time in the CJ rainbow of shades.

Now, we are merely discussing coloration regarding the CJ for RL line. Sizing was a whole different animal. Seems the sizing paradigm for this model was all over the map, literally.

I’ve handled 3 different pairs and I kid you not, they were all sized different, every one. Seems CJ made the earliest pairs for RL on a narrower/custom version of the 325. While later versions were simply sized down.

All this information is available to anyone dedicated enough to scour annals of these great Fora.

Cheers!

 

[jellyroller]

C&J’s Lindrick
View attachment 1930747

I just love these. I'd buy them in a heartbeat if they were still being made.