The Shell Cordovan, non-Alden Shoe and Boot Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by jhcam8, Oct 2, 2011.

  1. laufer

    laufer Senior member

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    It all depends on the last, if we are to go with 946 last which comes in four different widths then I think it is possible for you to find the size. I would strongly recommend that you email to
    to Skoakotiebolaget at [email protected] for Bonafe sizing questions. Please bear in mind that response may be a little slow as we are entering in time of Europeans summer vacations and many factories and stores are operating on reduced capacities or not at all.
     
  2. NAMOR

    NAMOR Senior member

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    Is there such a think as natural shell from horween? I've only seen it on a Japanese brand boot and it was a milky yellow color. I've never seen a natural color horween shell similar to the Japanese pair. The stuff Carmina and allen edmonds calls natural is simply "rebranded" light saddle/whiskey
     
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2015
  3. MGoCrimson

    MGoCrimson Senior member

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    Viberg says they sourced their natural shell from Horween and here's a year's worth of aging http://imgur.com/a/Fc57R
     
  4. sleepyinsanfran

    sleepyinsanfran Senior member

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    I'd be in for the second one (the boot). is it possible to have a different last? the 946 last comes with a giant fat heel (relative to the forefoot, which is tapered and chiseled)
     
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2015
  5. peppercorn78

    peppercorn78 Senior member

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    I asked Mr. Horween about natural shell at the AE trunk show event and he confirmed to me that it is undyed shell, different from whiskey. Of course, he could have been fudging the facts a bit to sell shoes. Who knows. And AE finishes it with what looks like their walnut polish. I stripped all that off, but over the past 6 months they have darkened to an orangey-tan.

    [​IMG]

    Pants are baggy from bending over...

    Here's what they looked like when brand new. Kinda pale and milky, as you describe:

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2015
  6. NAMOR

    NAMOR Senior member

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    ^ Edit- now that looks like natural shell. Very nice. Did you add any color to it or did they darken on their own? Looks fantastic

    All the natural shell cordovan I have seen looks good. But if it's supposed to be lighter than whiskey/saddle, then I've never actually laid eyes on horween natural shell. So does the name "natural" suggest less treatment of the shell? Less polish, or less buffing, or less dye? Or is it supposed to be a lighter shell color?
     
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2015
  7. peppercorn78

    peppercorn78 Senior member

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    Thanks. No, never anything other than the Mike method. Oh, I did use VSC once. I walk a ton outside in NYC, so the sun has darkened it pretty quickly on its own. It seems darker to my eyes almost every time I wear them.

    I think it refers to the shell leaving Horween undyed. Because AE definitely caked on some polish at the factory that I had to remove. :)

    Perhaps @mdubs can further illuminate, but I don't think natural will be lighter than whiskey in all cases. In fact, in the AE thread, I've seen multiple pairs from the same trunk show run that were even darker than cognac NIB.
     
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2015
  8. sask boot

    sask boot Senior member

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    Picked this up from Paul and friends located in sweden. I think it is on the 2298
     
  9. JSO1

    JSO1 Senior member

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    +1
     
  10. NAMOR

    NAMOR Senior member

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    gotcha thanks. i guess the question becomes is natural more desirable than whiskey or saddle?
     
  11. peppercorn78

    peppercorn78 Senior member

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    I think it depends on the shoe and its application. Since natural patinas drastically and unevenly, I thought it would make a good casual chukka. For dressier shoes, I'd go for the more consistently dyed leathers, probably.
     
  12. JSO1

    JSO1 Senior member

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    The internet seems to think that natural shell, by virtue of being undyed, will darken tremendously over time, resulting in a darker shell than you would get with whiskey or saddle or brandy, which, according to internet lore, will not darken as much as natural shell even though it starts out slightly darker.

    I asked Nick H. about this when I went to Horween and he assured me that it was bunk. All light shell will darken over time, and natural will not darken any more intensely than any other light shell. Whiskey and saddle and brandy will all end up darkening over time, just as natural shell will. How dark just depends on how much sun they're exposed to. Natural may appear to patina more intensely because it lacks dye and the natural patina is more apparent.

    Only thing I'll say about natural vs other light shell is that the undyed nature of natural makes it very susceptible to appearing drastically different shades depending on the angle of light. I haven't seen such light-based variation in color appearance on cognac or whiskey.
     
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2015
  13. peppercorn78

    peppercorn78 Senior member

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    Wow, interesting. I guess since this is my only pair of lighter shell (I have 3 color 8 and two dark cognac), I notice the lightening more.
     
  14. laufer

    laufer Senior member

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    Yes, in fact that boot pictured is on 74945 last but this last comes only in one width medium width. It is a great boot last.
     
  15. kwhitelaw

    kwhitelaw Senior member

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    natural shell wallet against alden whiskey. wallet is from ashland, so it's essentially coming straight from horween I guess

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     

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