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Betelgeuse

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Maiden voyage for the C&J Harvard.

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Gabriel_H

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Hey there,

I purchased a pair of Ludwig Reiter cordovan single monkstraps for a sensational price, about 80% off, a while ago. They were a single item on sale (new), only available in UK 10.5 and factory seconds, although I can't find the flaw that was written in the documentation (supposed to be creasing in the lining in both shoes). It is a classic Viennese last, rather roomy in the toes similar to Budapesters, and that is probably what causes the issue together with the plain toe.

They were comfortable from the moment I stepped in, but also a little roomy. A UK 10 would probably be perfect for me, but they were only available as singles in 10.5. The distance from the heel to the widest part of the shoe is rather spot on, the balls of my feet line up well. These are my first pair of cordovans, so this is a typical rookie issue obviously. With calfskin, creases don't bother me at all. I hope it is ok I post this here as I don't want to open a new thread for it.

When I first wore them, they immediately developed the rippling that is typical for cordovan. However, it is very sharp and defined on the left shoe. The ripples on the right shoe are rather discrete and a little bit more like they are supposed to be, I think. Especially the sharp double creases on the outer side of the left shoe and the very defined crease right behind the toe puff bother me and make the shoe look rather rumpled. Of course, I also forgot to "set" the creases before the first wear. In my opinion, a single or double roll at the flex point would be ideal.

My question now is: do you think the rippling is normal and acceptable for cordovan or is it too much and a sign of a fit issue? Should I keep them or sell them and look for UK 10 cordovans? I am totally undecided on the matter, so your feedback would help me decide and would be very much appreciated. (I do admit I tend to get obsessed by such matters ...)

To add some general info to the thread regarding a "lesser-seen" shoe brand on SF: this model is a "Kapuziner" on the Viennese last, single leather soles, from the Viennese shoe manufacturer Ludwig Reiter. The color written on the shoe box is Mocca, but there are burgundy undertones. AFAIK Ludwig Reiter uses cordovan from Horween, so I assume the color is #8.
 

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ZzzRain

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After seeing the collection of @stephenaf2003, I have obtained color 4, bourbon, dark cognac shell boots. I am seeking advice on whether mahogany shell will make a distinction between these 3? I wonder if I should go for chromexcel, Dublin or other leathers with a similar color for a lower price. But, based on pictures, mahogany shell seems to have unique shade.
 

ACLC

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I just got a pair of shell boots from Meermin and dropped my iPhone on one boot from about 30 cm and it left quite a big scratch on them. These are my first cordovan shoes and altough I know that the meermin cordovan is not the best quality, I was under the assumption that cordovan was a very durable leather. Is this normal or is the meermin shell quality even worse than expected?
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shoeinvestor

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I just got a pair of shell boots from Meermin and dropped my iPhone on one boot from about 30 cm and it left quite a big scratch on them. These are my first cordovan shoes and altough I know that the meermin cordovan is not the best quality, I was under the assumption that cordovan was a very durable leather. Is this normal or is the meermin shell quality even worse than expected?
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I am not familiar with Meermin Shell but only with Horween Shell. The scratches are quite astonishing for an iPhone crash. However, I would expect that with a bit of cordovan cream and a good buffing, the scratches will become nearly invisible. At least that is my experience with Horween Shell.
 

ACLC

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I am not familiar with Meermin Shell but only with Horween Shell. The scratches are quite astonishing for an iPhone crash. However, I would expect that with a bit of cordovan cream and a good buffing, the scratches will become nearly invisible. At least that is my experience with Horween Shell.
The scratch has little fibres/hairs in it. Is this normal for cordovan? It looks a lot like an old cheap pair of shoes I had years ago that I’m pretty sure were synthetic leather.
 

Reiver

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The scratch has little fibres/hairs in it. Is this normal for cordovan? It looks a lot like an old cheap pair of shoes I had years ago that I’m pretty sure were synthetic leather.

I think shell cordovans surface does start out like this before the tannery finishes and glazes it so it looks like this has been removed.
 

jischwar

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After seeing the collection of @stephenaf2003, I have obtained color 4, bourbon, dark cognac shell boots. I am seeking advice on whether mahogany shell will make a distinction between these 3? I wonder if I should go for chromexcel, Dublin or other leathers with a similar color for a lower price. But, based on pictures, mahogany shell seems to have unique shade.
Mahogany is a medium brown shade of shell, so I think you'd definitely see a distinction. Only you can decide if you'd rather try out a different leather or if the attributes of shell are what you are after. You could also try some kind of horse butt (not sure what maker you are using)
 

Blastwice

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The scratch has little fibres/hairs in it. Is this normal for cordovan? It looks a lot like an old cheap pair of shoes I had years ago that I’m pretty sure were synthetic leather.

Shell is like a suede or a roughout, which is then shaved, glazed, polished, etc.
 

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