The Shell Cordovan, non-Alden Shoe and Boot Thread

[007Bond]

Nice job. Couple tips... generally best to try to tape right before you dye since some tapes are more prone to leaving reside or impacting the leather you have taped off the longer it is left on there. You did such a good job, I'd leave it alone since it's time consuming to do. Before you dye, go over all the edges to make sure that you have a really good seal. Dye has a way of bleeding.

Also, assuming you got water based dye, get yourself some alcohol for diluting the colors. You can use dye reducer or, if you like isopropyl alcohol or denatured alcohol should be fine. If your goal is to stay as light as possible this will let you apply a few coats to gradually get to a level that meets your requirements rather than going dark faster than you want with one coat of full strength dye.

Good point while taping I was thinking am I jumping the gun with the tape. I did use the painters tape I have used in my home so hope it's ok on the shoes seems ok on walls for a few days. Yes the dye looks super liquid so I better go over every seam to make sure it is tight.

As for the dye I got the "Fiebing's Leather Dye - Alcohol Based Permanent Leather Dye" this is the one I seen on Youtube the most and seemed like what cobblers use. I am in uncharted territory so if I am going in the wrong direction let me know.

Thanks

 

[stephenaf2003]

OK I cleaned up the shoes with acetone and then taped them off. This is the first time I am doing this and I found smaller pieces of tape 1 inch to 1 and a half max gave the best results for getting the tape down inside the welt.

I ordered British Tan seems a bit darker then and original and Burgundy that seems even darker. I will test them I was thinking on the tongue area to see which one covers the spots the best if at all. They should be here tomorrow Amazon prime. Since I am really in no rush I figured let me order a few colors I can see myself using again. This way I test a spot if it is good great if not I think I can see that dye being used in the future. If these don't cover good I can order a darker color that covers the spots better. I did watch several youtube videos to get some ideas but seems every base leather vs dye color yields different results. So until I test the actual dye on the actual shoes I think there is no way to know if the results will be great. I mean sure if you are dying black or a dark brown you know what you are going to get. I am thinking other less full dark colors you have to test things out to see if you are going to like it and if it will cover what you want. I am not sure what to expect as some videos I watched the color really soaked in and seemed to even things out. Also I think it was here on Styleforum I seen a post where this guy took photographs under different light a light that penetrates the outside color we see on the shoes. It revealed actual dark stains under the color. He was saying that the darker colors could really be messed up underneath and you would not really know. So for this reason I am hopeful of good results.



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....this is awesome, looking forward to living vicariously through you, since there’s no chance I would ever try this.

 

[stook1]

Good point while taping I was thinking am I jumping the gun with the tape. I did use the painters tape I have used in my home so hope it's ok on the shoes seems ok on walls for a few days. Yes the dye looks super liquid so I better go over every seam to make sure it is tight.

As for the dye I got the "Fiebing's Leather Dye - Alcohol Based Permanent Leather Dye" this is the one I seen on Youtube the most and seemed like what cobblers use. I am in uncharted territory so if I am going in the wrong direction let me know.

Thanks

No that's fine to use. I use Angelus but same idea. I think cobblers tend to use oil based dye. You received another suggestion to use Saphir. I can't speak to any of that but I'd say what you got is fine. My only recommendation is to dilute the dye you use. It will reduce the pigments that you are applying to the leather which will allow you to adjust the color much more gradually.

 

[Patrick1053]

....this is awesome, looking forward to living vicariously through you, since there’s no chance I would ever try this.

I second this. This must be the coolest thing I've ever seen on this thread.

 

[stook1]

OK I cleaned up the shoes with acetone and then taped them off. This is the first time I am doing this and I found smaller pieces of tape 1 inch to 1 and a half max gave the best results for getting the tape down inside the welt.

I ordered British Tan seems a bit darker then and original and Burgundy that seems even darker. I will test them I was thinking on the tongue area to see which one covers the spots the best if at all. They should be here tomorrow Amazon prime. Since I am really in no rush I figured let me order a few colors I can see myself using again. This way I test a spot if it is good great if not I think I can see that dye being used in the future. If these don't cover good I can order a darker color that covers the spots better. I did watch several youtube videos to get some ideas but seems every base leather vs dye color yields different results. So until I test the actual dye on the actual shoes I think there is no way to know if the results will be great. I mean sure if you are dying black or a dark brown you know what you are going to get. I am thinking other less full dark colors you have to test things out to see if you are going to like it and if it will cover what you want. I am not sure what to expect as some videos I watched the color really soaked in and seemed to even things out. Also I think it was here on Styleforum I seen a post where this guy took photographs under different light a light that penetrates the outside color we see on the shoes. It revealed actual dark stains under the color. He was saying that the darker colors could really be messed up underneath and you would not really know. So for this reason I am hopeful of good results.



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Hey man, one other quick thought... one of the most common mistakes with this project is insufficient prep. It's pretty difficult to tell how well you stripped these shoes with acetone but you really want to make sure they are thoroughly stripped in all the nooks and crannies. PTBs are easy as it gets but watch out for the edges along the welt, around the eyelets, and along seams. You can use a toothbrush to really get at it just test it with the acetone to make sure it's a plastic that doesn't melt. Oh, and don't use your wife's toothbrush.

 

[007Bond]

....this is awesome, looking forward to living vicariously through you, since there’s no chance I would ever try this.

I thought I would never ever try to dye shoes especially shell. But these got to a point of being so ugly and I got to the point of I don't think they can look any worse, I have nothing to lose.

No that's fine to use. I use Angelus but same idea. I think cobblers tend to use oil based dye. You received another suggestion to use Saphir. I can't speak to any of that but I'd say what you got is fine. My only recommendation is to dilute the dye you use. It will reduce the pigments that you are applying to the leather which will allow you to adjust the color much more gradually.

Saphir is great stuff most all my cleaner and polish is Saphir. Only issue I ever find is limited buying options and limited choices. When it came to dye colors Fiebing had way more color choices and then we have the Saphir $15 for 1.5 oz vs Fiebing 4oz for $8. So yes I do like Saphir always the best results for sure but Fiebings seems equally as good as far as I can tell.

I second this. This must be the coolest thing I've ever seen on this thread.

Yes yes can you say Guinea Pig.....

Hey man, one other quick thought... one of the most common mistakes with this project is insufficient prep. It's pretty difficult to tell how well you stripped these shoes with acetone but you really want to make sure they are thoroughly stripped in all the nooks and crannies. PTBs are easy as it gets but watch out for the edges along the welt, around the eyelets, and along seams. You can use a toothbrush to really get at it just test it with the acetone to make sure it's a plastic that doesn't melt. Oh, and don't use your wife's toothbrush.

Thanks and you are right. While I was cleaning them I let them dry and I noticed some nooks and crannies were not as clean. So I went back again until I thought they looked of the same color as the main shoe. Again today looking and now that you say it I think I am going to double check and touch up what is needed. Oh and yeah I stopped taking the wife's stuff as I have found uses for other odd items over the years but she always gets pissed. Now I just buy dollar store toothbrushes so I don't get yelled at Where is My..... I hope you don't have it again....

 

[Shawnc]

@007Bond, that is one of the best taping jobs I have ever seen. You are well on your way to nailing this project. In regards to applying the tape too early, for me, it was only a problem with masking tape. Never had a problem once I shifted to masking tape.

I'm going to search this forum and see if I can find it but I remember doing a start to finish step-by-step with pictures of some Ron Rider shell boots. If I find it, I will post the link.

Really looking forward to seeing how this turns out.

 

[ae_ashley]

.

 

[SRV]

Cross-post from C&J thread.

Cardigan 4s; originally in Dark Brown Shell. Here is how they look now.

Fair amount of color variation based on lighting. Love the olive undertones in shade and indoors.

 

[phillyforager]

Hoping someone here can help me out with this:

Does anyone know who makes the shell cordovan belts for Rancourt? I was told by someone at Rancourt that they have all their belts made by a separate company.

I would love to pick up a few of them, but I have no idea who makes them. (The Rancourt website is sold out at the moment)

Thanks

 

[sam67]

Cross-post from C&J thread.

Cardigan 4s; originally in Dark Brown Shell. Here is how they look now.

Fair amount of color variation based on lighting. Love the olive undertones in shade and indoors.

View attachment 1561319View attachment 1561320View attachment 1561321View attachment 1561322View attachment 1561323View attachment 1561324View attachment 1561325

Where is the grass that green? Nice shoes.

 

[katch]

I thought I would never ever try to dye shoes especially shell. But these got to a point of being so ugly and I got to the point of I don't think they can look any worse, I have nothing to lose.



Saphir is great stuff most all my cleaner and polish is Saphir. Only issue I ever find is limited buying options and limited choices. When it came to dye colors Fiebing had way more color choices and then we have the Saphir $15 for 1.5 oz vs Fiebing 4oz for $8. So yes I do like Saphir always the best results for sure but Fiebings seems equally as good as far as I can tell.


Yes yes can you say Guinea Pig.....


Thanks and you are right. While I was cleaning them I let them dry and I noticed some nooks and crannies were not as clean. So I went back again until I thought they looked of the same color as the main shoe. Again today looking and now that you say it I think I am going to double check and touch up what is needed. Oh and yeah I stopped taking the wife's stuff as I have found uses for other odd items over the years but she always gets pissed. Now I just buy dollar store toothbrushes so I don't get yelled at Where is My..... I hope you don't have it again....

looking forward to the results. I’m getting ready to do the same on some ebay burgundy shell ptbs due to be coming in any day now. Going to dye them to use Angelus Cordovan and Oxblood (and maybe just a hint of purple) to get a deep color 8. Bought brass grommets too Will provide updates.

 

[Lionel Hutz]

Rancourt caramel today

I’m not sure I like this briefcase because the design is busier than I normally find acceptable but I do like the work

 

[Lionel Hutz]

Hoping someone here can help me out with this:

Does anyone know who makes the shell cordovan belts for Rancourt? I was told by someone at Rancourt that they have all their belts made by a separate company.

I would love to pick up a few of them, but I have no idea who makes them. (The Rancourt website is sold out at the moment)

Thanks

They have been sold out of navy shell more than a year.

I spoke to the owner about it once and they are definitely made in large batches by a third party supplier. He told me it was horween shell and they are MiUSA but that’s all I know Might they be made by Horween?

I hope they get them back in stock but I guess they are focused on staying afloat right now and maybe don't want to tie up capital in slow moving inventory

 

[jet-stream]

Shaved Burgundy AE Fifth Streets (from yesterday):