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The Shell Cordovan, non-Alden Shoe and Boot Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by jhcam8, Oct 2, 2011.

  1. stook1

    stook1 Senior Member

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    This is the comment I was referring to. Having now looked it back up, I'm not exactly sure what conclusions to draw since the reply seems inconsistent despite the comment about shell in the summer. So, that having been said, I'd be very curious to hear your findings.




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  2. M635Guy

    M635Guy Distinguished Member

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    I think this is a reference to how many of the unusual shell colors have very inconsistent availability, especially for a small shop like Rider (I've heard this from another small maker also). To put together enough for an MTO that would make enough people happy and worth enough to disrupt more regular runs is difficult.

    Net: I think things like natty shell are going to be a bit ad hoc/intermittent - still worth being on their radar as interested
     

  3. stephenaf2003

    stephenaf2003 Distinguished Member

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    ahh ok I see....yeah, I was talking with Ron in person at his store back in January, and the subject came up. He indicated he would still do shell makeups as special orders; I walked away from the conversation thinking he meant MTO. But, in hindsight I should have clarified if he meant he would occasionally still do GMTO‘s. More to come.
     

  4. up1911fan

    up1911fan Distinguished Member

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    Brown Higgins Mills today.

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  5. M635Guy

    M635Guy Distinguished Member

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    Those look awesome!

    Are the darker areas denim crocking or just natural shell variation?
     

  6. up1911fan

    up1911fan Distinguished Member

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    Thanks, a combination of variation and lighting, not ad as pronounced IRL.
     

  7. dave_rawitat

    dave_rawitat Senior Member

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    Long time lurking around this thread, posting here first time, with one of my favorite pairs: Carmina boot in Cognac shell cordovan on Rain last.

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  8. BackInTheJox

    BackInTheJox Distinguished Member

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    Rancourt unlined color 8 shell loafers.

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  9. madhat

    madhat Distinguished Member

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    WOW
     

  10. AEShoeMan

    AEShoeMan Senior Member

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    Old school Marlow shortwings today
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  11. misiuacademy

    misiuacademy Well-Known Member

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    Hi everyone!

    As a first disclaimer, I firstly posted this in the Goodyear Welt Sub on Reddit. Since I cannot write a 3rd unique article and some of you really liked the Cheaney Boots I posted the other day, I copied the post here. So everything that follows is from that! I hope you enjoy it!

    I am so hyped for this I could barely contain my enthusiasm all week! You might have noticed me throwing some snippets in the daily threads of what's coming.

    For those of you that don't know me, I love reviews and I love shoes. In a small collaboration with Pediwear of England, I had the chance to try one of their premium, in-house Edward and James Brand model from the Shell Cordovan Range. More specifically, the Rushton Boots in Deep Burgundy and Shell sourced from an English Tannery.

    It is my first experience owning Shell Cordovan and oh my god, it has been a revelation. The smell, the lustrous shine, the touch and the aesthetics.

    As always, the full review is here but I always write a separate article for the sub. I hope you appreciate it and for any of you taking the time to read the full thing in my blog, I appreciate even more. It is about 3000 words and I put a lot of effort into it.

    [​IMG]
    I am also very proud about how my photography has evolved.

    So mandatory disclaimer: This is a review pair and I have no other affiliation or monetary gain.

    Background & Story

    So back in January I bought the Carlos Santos 9381 which I absolutely love. I got them from Pediwear, a well known popular shoe store in England during the Christmas sales. My experience with them was wonderful, great customer service, handwritten message that my shoes have been quality checked. I sent them the review because I wanted to show that I appreciate what they do. Eventually, this led to me trying today's Boot for a full scale review

    [​IMG]
    Edward and James

    They have a really big selection of the most famous Northampton Brands but also a quite recently developed in-house brand called Edward and James.

    These shoes are made either in India, Spain or the UK depending on the price tier. The most expensive and prestigious Cordovan Range that has 3 boots, a longwing, a wingtip and an upcoming loafer. These are made exclusively by Joseph Cheaney or Barker.

    The Rushton (today's model) is made by Joseph Cheaney. Now that you know the background, let's get into the juicy specs.

    [​IMG]
    Specifications

    So if there is one standalone famous color, that is Color 8. I also think it is one of the most versatile colors out there. A very important thing for a dressy boot especially for me that wears suits at work all the time. Hence the choice of the Rushton.
    • Brand: Edward and James
    • Style: Lace Up Boots
    • Name: Rushton
    • Product Code: 9402
    • Color: Burgundy
    • Construction: Goodyear Welt System
    • Welt: 360°
    • Made In: The UK
    • Made By: Joseph Cheaney
    • Size: UK 7/US 7.5/EU 41
    • Last: 103 F
    • Width: F Regular
    • Eyelets: 6 Blind Eyelets and 4 Speed Hooks
    • Sole: Dainite Rubber
    • Leather: Shell Cordovan
    • Tannery: Clayton & Sons, Chesterfield UK
    • Price: £690.00/$900/€799/SEK 8330 incl. VAT
    Ready for the rest? Man I feel like a little kid.

    Unboxing

    I swear, I don't know what to expect from unboxing these days! You will see what I mean next week with the behemoth from Project TWLV.

    [​IMG]

    So Pediwear has a nice thing going here. Dark green box with texture feel that is very sturdy with the brand logo and some handwritten specifications on the side. Inside you will get:
    • 1 Red Shoe Horn
    • 1 Pediwear Handmade Wax Polish (Neutral Color)
    • An Edward and James Leaflet
    • A Quality Check Card
    • 2 Big Black Flannel Dust Bags
    • A Joseph Cheaney Leaflet
    Pretty good if you ask me. But when you pay a premium price, you should expect a quality unboxing experience in my opinion.

    First Impressions

    You open the cap and the leather smell is so rich, so evocative. If you are like one of those people (like me) that enjoy sniffing the smell of gasoline you know what I mean.
    [​IMG]
    They look fantastic. Bear in mind that they are as dark as they look on the website. In most occasions it will look like dark chocolate or even black. But when the light hits them like today when I was walking down the street...they have this rich, dark plum color.

    High shine as expected and a quick look around revealed no problems or inconsistencies.

    Design & Looks

    The Rushton is a dressy lace up boot with 4 speed hooks and resembles a derby shoe with a longer shaft. The overall style looks British with a more round shape and an almondy toe and tigher waist.

    A really nice orange tan lining compliments the look. The E&J name is embossed alongside the nice Cheaney Crest.

    [​IMG]
    The Cap Toe is very clean and strong as you would expect and the last while modified looks very similar to the Cheaney 146.

    [​IMG]

    The facing looks like a hockey stick and is clean and stylish. I really like the design.

    [​IMG]

    Backseam is also clean and straight from the heel to the top.

    [​IMG]

    The eyelets are blind which keeps the look tidy but I enjoy the vintage brass hooks on the top. It gives it some character. The laces are braided and thin and I feel run a little short if you tie them all the way.

    [​IMG]

    The sole is Dainite and I have had very good experiences so far when it comes to grip and durability. We will see how they hold out, but it is a must in Sweden.

    Quality & Construction

    I did a close inspection in every part of the shoe I could think of. The stitching is on point everywhere, the sole feels how it should and is hammered with 8 nails. The color is great and rich and the smell...the smell is SO evocative. It reminds me when I was young in 2008 and had a pinto horse named Gloria. Every time I went to the stable, this unique smell...it brings back memories.

    [​IMG]
    The shine is great off the box and the Shell looks great. I had a chance to compare with a Horween Shell in Skoaktiebolaget and by touch, look and feel they were identical. Only time will tell how they will compare.

    The welt was also very well done and there was a tiny, tiny thread sticking out of the midsole but it came off in a second.

    Sizing

    This is a regular (F) width boot and comes in limited sizes (UK 7 to UK 10 at the moment including half sizes). It is a premium exclusive line though so I can understand they go for the most popular sizes.

    I went true to size with UK 7. For comparison:

    Carlos Santos 234: UK 7

    Carlos Santos 401: UK 7

    Loake Capital: UK 8

    Loake Jockey: UK 7

    Project TWLV: UK 6 (they are built one size up)

    [​IMG]

    Therefore, my advise is to go TTS.

    Comfort

    I have them for about 2 weeks now and have worn them about 5 times for the whole day. Three times during work, one during a visit to a pub and one just walking around with friends.

    No break in period, no problem walking. Generous instep for me, good arch support and no pain or discomfort around my metatarsal. I usually get some pain there initially. Fits snug with thin or thicker socks and has just enough toe space on the front.

    [​IMG]

    I have been pretty lucky with RTW shoes and sizes, but i do feel they are a tad wider than a F.

    Initially it is a little struggle to find out how much you need to loosen the laces and pull the tongue (a lot) but after you get the hang of it it becomes a breeze. On the other hand, it is very easy to take them off.

    Conclusion

    Color me impressed. A great looking boot, with nice style, excellent stitching, beautiful lining and top notch quality everywhere I looked, all wrapped in a fantastic presentation. This might not be your Alden but if you look for something different and want to support a smaller family business, I can wholeheartedly recommend this. There are some cheaper models as well.

    I mean, you could call me biased of course, but the pictures do not lie. I will wear this for years and years. Here's a picture of me styling them on Monday.

    [​IMG]
    What do you guys think? Ask any question you want, comment and of course constructive criticism is more than welcome. I am by no means an expert, but I am a shoe lover. And this is a good shoe.

    Thank you for reading,
    Kostas
     
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2019

  12. sterlingindigo

    sterlingindigo Distinguished Member

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    Excellent write up!
     

  13. misiuacademy

    misiuacademy Well-Known Member

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    Thank you very much kind sir!
     

  14. M635Guy

    M635Guy Distinguished Member

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    Natty shell Strands today
    [​IMG]
     

  15. sterlingindigo

    sterlingindigo Distinguished Member

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    Developing amazing patina!
     

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