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The Shell Cordovan, non-Alden Shoe and Boot Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by jhcam8, Oct 2, 2011.

  1. Burzan

    Burzan Senior member

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    Part of the journey haha
     
  2. BackInTheJox

    BackInTheJox Senior member

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    Love 'em. I still haven't taken mine out yet, rain the past couple days. Can't wait to take them out for a spin myself. Tempted to splurge on the natural too haha.
     
  3. coolarrow

    coolarrow Senior member

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    In terms of sizing, AE calf to shell consistency is lacking. I've had to return shell shoes that are the same size as similarly lasted calf shoes. Alden does a much better job in calf to shell consistency.
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. Gabru

    Gabru Senior member

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    That's a sound advice and one I can totally relate with
     
  5. sdfzs

    sdfzs Senior member

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    Exactly the same experience. In AE i don't dare to buy shell based on my size in Calf since IMO the volume of the shoe can differ significantly. The length and width of the insole will naturally be the same but how hard they stretch the leather during the lasting process seems to differ considerably.

    That being said i basically find even Calf from AE to have larger variations then other brands. Needed to return multiple pairs of calf leather shoes with significantly different fit then a "good" pair
     
  6. Deusis

    Deusis Senior member

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    Not yet in my possession but they're on their way soon. Vass Cognac Shell Cordovan Galway-style boots.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2016
    6 people like this.
  7. peppercorn78

    peppercorn78 Senior member

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    Carmina Navy:

    [​IMG]
     
    7 people like this.
  8. kjart

    kjart Active Member

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    Curious about the differences in calf vs shell, as I've heard this before. Did you find that the shell tended to run smaller or larger?
     
  9. shunted22

    shunted22 Senior member

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    After seeing these and an awesome similar pair of AE blue shell, I was forced to do a similar makeup with EB (exposed eyelets, natural storm welt). Now playing the long waiting game
     
  10. sdfzs

    sdfzs Senior member

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    IMO shell will run larger. I have experienced everything from about a quarter of a size to more then a half. Then since the insole stays the same but the shoe can accommodate a larger volume it's also not quite the same as if you would actually go up in size since that also effects the size of the insole both in length and width.

    As far as my limited knowledge goes the background is basically that shell is both harder to stretch over a last without tearing the leather. Calf might me stretched extremely hard and might once you pull off the shoe from the last stretch back to some extent. Given the price of shell it's also so that the manufacturer really avoids pulling to hard when lasting to reduce risks of tearing the leather. Given this the lasting might be done with a bit less pull and also she'll behaves a bit differently once you remove the last. Note that this applies to brands that more or less fully use machines when lasting. Hand lasting might obviously be something completely different but that is outside the context of this thread and more for the bespoke focused discussions.

    End of the day do you need to bothers? IMO if your calf oxford lacing almost fully closes or of you feel already with calf that you have less volume in your feet they what she shoe can accommodate then yes. To give my personal example in calf oxfords from AE I wear 10E in the 65 last with a nice little v that not fully closes but is getting close. In shell then with the same size and last I actually would could need a tongue pad to achieve the same visual appearance of the lacing

    Final remark is naturally that everyone's feet are different and so are experiences so the absolute truth is most likely close to as many feet we have around...
     
  11. peppercorn78

    peppercorn78 Senior member

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    EB has navy now? Through Solegarb? Good for you, man! Yours are gonna be awesome. What last?

    Btw there's a monkstrap chukka GMTO in navy shell from Crockettt and Jones happening at GYW.
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2016
  12. shunted22

    shunted22 Senior member

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    Yeah Solegarb, it's on 363Mod. I'm slightly nervous since I had to guess at the sizing.

    I'll check out the monks, they sound badass- I have hesitations though if monks are really my style.
     
  13. Zapasman

    Zapasman Senior member

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    Shell stretches much more than calf with time. Ask any experienced manufacture.
     
  14. TtownMD

    TtownMD Senior member

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    I Didn't know this & thank you for sharing the info.
     
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  15. peppercorn78

    peppercorn78 Senior member

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    That's good to know, although with the MTO yo charge, Bonafe shell is well out of my price threshold. But who knows. I once said the same thing about $330 AEs, and look where I am now. :uhoh:

    It's the Camberley dubmonk boot, which is all kinds of badass. I would join, but I already have navy shell and navy suede. Only so many uses for blue shoes...

    Oh yeah, also I can't join because I would need a G width and CJ only allows standard widths for GMTO :fu:
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2016
  16. wklq76a

    wklq76a Senior member

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    Hmmm...this is the first I've heard of this. Not a manufacturer, but LeatherSoul told me the precise opposite. Which manufacturers have you heard this from?
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. shunted22

    shunted22 Senior member

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    Haha I know the feeling. My first gyw purchase was AE calf Park Aves and I felt crazy for spending the money. I'm just hoping EGs don't ever start to look reasonable. Pretty happy around the Alden price range though.
     
  18. JSO1

    JSO1 Senior member

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    Good luck with that. It's a nice fantasy...
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2016
  19. Zapasman

    Zapasman Senior member

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    Last edited: Apr 9, 2016
  20. kjart

    kjart Active Member

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    Thanks for sharing your experience. I've been thinking of picking up a pair of shell Leeds but my Daltons are a hair snug so I'm debating whether or not I should size up .5 from them.

    Couldn't agree more. Do they ever offer shell in G?
     

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