The Second Tailors' Thread: Technical Tutorials

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Dec 11, 2011.

  1. emptym

    emptym Moderator Moderator

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    In the first Tailors' Thread, our intrepid trio has been assessing the fit of particular garments and providing individualized alteration suggestions. But common problems abound. Consolidated here are various other threads or outstanding posts written over the years by our experts to deal with these problems. More will be added as they are written. But this thread will remain a place for posting general solutions to general problems, just as the first Tailor's Thread will remain a place for those seeking personalized feedback.


    From jeffreyd:

    Canvas and Suit Construction
    Allowances for Alterations
    Shoulder Expression
    Touching Up Your Suit
    The Shaping of a Sleeve
    Shoulder Divots (with follow-up by Despos)

    From a tailor:

    Why Shirt Darts?
    One Hip Higher?
    Lapels, Lapels, Lapels
    Design Your Own Lapels
    Made to Measure: How are Balance Changes Made?
    Alterations for Stooped Posture
    Defining Terms: Custom, Bespoke, and Made-To-Measure
    Uncomfortable Trouser Butt and Its Appearance
    Finding the Canvas
    Altering the Rise
    Equipment for Pressing Your Suit
    Using Your Pressing Equipment
    Gaping Pockets
    Dressing a Trouser
    Forward Shoulders
    For Do-It-Yourselfers, Getting the Trouser Length right
    Getting the Trouser Length Right
    Extremely Erect Alterations
    Balance Explained
    Do I Have a Low Shoulder?
    How to Cut for a Low Shoulder
    Got Square Shoulders?
    Got Sloping Shoulders?
    Got a High Hip?
    Taking in a Jacket's Sides
    Jacket Waistline Suppression
    Making Trousers Smaller
    Making Trousers Larger
    Removing Trouser Pleats
    Hole Worn in Trouser Thigh
    The Rise
    Vest Measurements
    Buying RTW Trousers
    Shirt Sleeve Showing Problem
    That Pesky Roll Bellow the Collar

    From Despos:

    How to determine proper jacket sleeve length
    Fixing Sleeve Divots
    Constructing a Bench-Made Suit
    Slanted Pant Cuffs

    Suggestions for Building Your Wardrobe
    Removing a Grease Stain
    How to Measure Yourself for Shirts
    Slanting Jacket Pockets

    Thank you again for expertise!


    Additionally, here are some very helpful threads by other resident SF experts:

    Manton on Conservative Business Dress and Menswear Classics and Favorite Fabrics.
    Etutee On Pants
    Mafoofan Photoshops Fit and Stylistic Recommendations
    A Harris's classic, Shoes Explained
    DWFII on What Makes a Good Shoe and on Pegged Soles and Shoemaking Techniques and Traditions
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2014


  2. Coburn

    Coburn Senior member

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    Thank you. I've been subscribing to these threads, but I see I missed several.
     


  3. UrbanComposition

    UrbanComposition Senior member

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    This is pretty amazing. Thanks for putting it together.
     


  4. Headlong

    Headlong New Member

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    Really good stuff. Many thanks.
     


  5. mb6c

    mb6c Active Member

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  6. Brendon

    Brendon Senior member

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    Hi Emptym
    could we see something in the technical threads about straightening and crookening of a jacket. This is most probably the most important thing with fitting, historically very debated in the old cutter and tailor mag's. Any jacket pattern maker or budding cutter/tailor should aquire this knowledge. I am amazed that this has not been mentioned as yet. If it has apologies and would love to be directed to it to view other opinions on this
    regards
    Brendon
     


  7. Zac Duncan

    Zac Duncan Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, it's really cool to list all of them
     


  8. 24thHamlinGent

    24thHamlinGent New Member

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    Just joined the forum and came across this as my first thread! What great information and I will be sure to go through every one!
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2012


  9. Eleganza

    Eleganza Active Member

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    Hello, new here.

    I don't know if this is the right place for this question, but what are the rules regarding darts and men's shirts and jackets? Should men's jackets, odd blazers, feature darts?

    Thanks fella's.
     
    Last edited: Nov 24, 2012


  10. fraserstrand

    fraserstrand New Member

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    This is fantastic thanks! I've had a pair of Pierre Cardin trousers I've been meaning to take up for months now - great tips [​IMG]
     


  11. mafiaye

    mafiaye New Member

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    Start learning, thanks for posting![​IMG]
     


  12. megara

    megara Active Member

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    This is so nice of you! Thank you emptym! Learning time.
     


  13. XFactor

    XFactor Senior member

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    Is there any guide on MEASURING YOURSELF to BUY SUITS from the CLASSIFIEDS and EBAY?

    I am looking at Marketplace Classifieds for suits to possibly buy.

    People are listing a bunch of measurements (which makes sense).

    Which GUIDE / page should I used to get and UNDERSTAND correctly my OWN MEASUREMENTS i.e. Measure myself to match / best find match with the Suits on sale?

    I can wear an existing suit and take measurements but I better do it with proper guidance so that I do not measure WRONG PLACES on the suit and body.
     


  14. TheBlackBruceWayne

    TheBlackBruceWayne Senior member

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    Exactly what I've been looking for.subscribed
     


  15. dongzy

    dongzy Active Member

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