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The Rubinacci Thread.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by whnay., Jun 6, 2008.

  1. yachtie

    yachtie Senior member

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    Iammatt's Rubinacci photography is so dominating as Rubinacci samples on the interwebs that one might fall prey to thinking that is how Rubinacci looks. But, it just might be a look peculiar to him.
    - B


    I think you've hit the nail on the head. The softer the jacket, the more dependent it is on the shape of the body underneath. Matt (iam)'s look good becuse the cut and construction is a good match for him. I'd posit it's not for everyone.
     
  2. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Agree on the winching - I don't think I'm in for a Mafoo amount of winching but a little more is definitely in order.

    I swear to God, the jacket's not that tight! I could gain 10-15 pounds and still fit into it. Part of the problem with these photos is that you can only guess at the shape of a wearer's body.

    For what it's worth, I don't think it's objectively wrong for your jacket to have less apparent waist suppression. First of all, we have no idea how narrow your actual waist is. Second, your jacket is far from sack-like (in the perjorative sense). I did not specifically envision the front-on chest-to-waist ratio that you see in my photo when I decided to order from Rubinacci; I wanted something that would fit well and appear dynamic from every angle. While we can only see your front side, your jacket still swells nicely around and under your chest. It's just unfortunate that your photo flattens what is best appreciated in all three dimensions.
     
  3. academe

    academe Senior member

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    I swear to God, the jacket's not that tight! I could gain 10-15 pounds and still fit into it. Part of the problem with these photos is that you can only guess at the shape of a wearer's body.
    It's a pity that it's difficult to post video clips of the different bespeakers moving/walking around. Photographs are so static and can - depending on the wearer - create a less than flattering impression, even if clothing is well cut... (e.g., I'm not very photogenic, and my wife always swears that I look better in the my clothes in the flesh [​IMG] ). I suspect part of the "impressions" that other members have of your coat (or, of the others) may be chalked up to the limitations of photography... What is that they say? the camera adds 20lbs?
    For what it's worth, I don't think it's objectively wrong for your jacket to have less apparent waist suppression. First of all, we have no idea how narrow your actual waist is. Second, your jacket is far from sack-like (in the perjorative sense). I did not specifically envision the front-on chest-to-waist ratio that you see in my photo when I decided to order from Rubinacci; I wanted something that would fit well and appear dynamic from every angle. While we can only see your front side, your jacket still swells nicely around and under your chest. It's just unfortunate that your photo flattens what is best appreciated in all three dimensions.
    +1 FWIW I think the cuts of the different coats suit the wearers' build and sense of style (no pun intended [​IMG])... I do prefer certain cuts more than others, but only because my body is shaped more or less like some of the bespeakers shown here. The degree of waist suppression can also be a very personal choice... What seems "lean" to one observer/bespeaker may seem overly "curvy/feminized" to another... Also, again you're speaking to the limitations of 2D photography...
     
  4. vitaminc

    vitaminc Senior member

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    Nice analysis. I think, as you and others have said before, you get what you pay for: Rubinacci.

    You got what you asked for.

    Bespoke clothing are like music; the clients are the composers and the master tailors are the conductors orchestrating a symphony of cutters and tailors. Unfortunately the music can only be as good as the scores written and even the best conductors/orchestras can only make a bad piece of music sounds mediocre.

    I see a great conductor/orchestra here but unfortunately some musics are not of my taste.
     
  5. PCabrelli

    PCabrelli Senior member

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    It's true, their are some great 'pieces' that don;t necessarily play my tune.

    P
    --
    http://gentrystyle.com
     
  6. HappymaN

    HappymaN Senior member

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    Great suits in this thread.

    whnay, how tall are you? Just curious.
     
  7. Looking to improve

    Looking to improve Senior member

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    Cardshark,

    This photo has guaranteed that I will some day order a DB:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Same here. Maybe even two... [​IMG]

    MtB
     
  8. whnay.

    whnay. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Great suits in this thread.

    whnay, how tall are you? Just curious.


    5' 8"
     
  9. mmkn

    mmkn Senior member

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    Personally I would also do flaps on your waist pockets along with the other stylistic cues (trouser cuffs, amount of shirt cuffs showing).

    Also have to say that your stooped slightly forward posture (compared to the others') illustrates Rubinacci's fitting abilities for me.

    Thanks,

    - M


    Can you explain these two comments? I understand the first half of the first one, but not the second half. The second one I don't really get at all.

    From fabric weight balance perspective, flaps on the pocket would balance the weight of the peaked lapels.

    From design perspective, the cuffs (trousers and shirt sleeves) and waist pocket flaps provide for more horizontal connectivity as the eyes look around.

    From a formality perspective, double breast peaked lapels design is less formal to me than single breasted one, and so flaps rather than double besoms jive better.

    I think it's more difficult to make a pattern for stooped or erect posture than a neutral one - to allow for the jacket's collar to sit properly (instead of being pulled up and backward for stooped, or up and frontward for erect).

    From the photos (and others he's posted) I'm thinking that Bill has slightly stooped posture (most seemingly from the back shot, and suggested by the slight pectus excavatum on his jacket compared to the other Rubinaccis).

    Overall I see Mr. Rubinacci passing his perfection of styling onto the various body types and personas - distinctively Neapolitan and Rubinacci.

    - M
     
  10. edmorel

    edmorel Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Stages of this thread:

    Past - Thoughtful, insightful
    Present - Contentious, argumentative yet civil
    Future - Clusterfuck
     
  11. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I personally like DBs with besom pockets. I like them either way, actually. For a really formal midnight blue or oxford gray, I will get besom every time. Also, if the pattern is really busy and/or loud, I prefer besom.
     
  12. whnay.

    whnay. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    From a formality perspective, double breast peaked lapels design is less formal to me than single breasted one, and so flaps rather than double besoms jive better.
    I couldn't disagree more with this assessment. DBs are almost always more formal than SBs.
     
  13. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    From fabric weight balance perspective, flaps on the pocket would balance the weight of the peaked lapels.

    From design perspective, the cuffs (trousers and shirt sleeves) and waist pocket flaps provide for more horizontal connectivity as the eyes look around.

    From a formality perspective, double breast peaked lapels design is less formal to me than single breasted one, and so flaps rather than double besoms jive better.

    I think it's more difficult to make a pattern for stooped or erect posture than a neutral one - to allow for the jacket's collar to sit properly (instead of being pulled up and back for stooped, or up and frontward for erect).

    - M


    I strongly disagree with every point you make.
     
  14. Gruto

    Gruto Senior member

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    DBs are almost always more formal than SBs.
    More formal? I would say: more dandified. Formality has more to do with the suiting than SB/DB, IMO.
     
  15. Artisan Fan

    Artisan Fan Senior member

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    I couldn't disagree more with this assessment. DBs are almost always more formal than SBs.

    Agreed. [​IMG]
     
  16. A Y

    A Y Senior member

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    I couldn't disagree more with this assessment. DBs are almost always more formal than SBs.

    Perhaps this is covered by your "almost" qualification, but aren't DB dinner jackets considered less formal than SB?

    --Andre
     
  17. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

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    All the DB pictures make me want to get a specifically informal db.
     
  18. whnay.

    whnay. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Here are some pics of the sportcoats.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  19. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    Nice, B.

    Who made the trousers?

    - B
     
  20. Brad

    Brad Senior member

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    Very nice and very iammattish, but it seems like the shoulder on your jackets is slightly different. Is that right?
     

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