The Rubinacci Thread.

[Parker]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

in love with that glen plaid tweed.

+1. That glen plaid is fantastic. Really like both the blazer and the sport coat. Thanks for posting.

So, that isn't roping in the sleeve cap? is it 'wadding'? Would it settle down naturally over time?
I think it looks good in combination with your sloped shoulders, except maybe a little too much on the blue suit.

 

[SkinnyGoomba]

Bill,

Very nice! I think the Glen Plaid would look great as a suit as well.

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by Parker

So, that isn't roping in the sleeve cap? is it 'wadding'? Would it settle down naturally over time?
I think it looks good in combination with your sloped shoulders, except maybe a little too much on the blue suit.

There might be some material in there or maybe not. Would have to feel it to know for sure. But just not pressing open the seam would leave that "bump" even if there's nothing there.

 

[Despos]

The sleevehead is used in that area of the roping. Every tailor uses what materials he thinks works best for sleeveheads. Different materials used give different effects. Fullness in the sleeve cap is distributed over the top of sleeve head to make the sleeve cap "rise".

Check out Jeffreyd's blog. He has diagrams of sleeveheads and how they are sewn, just a few posts down from the most current entry.

 

[mmkn]

Classic looking stuff Whnay. Your build reminds me of PG's. I think Rubi does you better than A&S - and look forward to seeing the your evolution with them as PG has with his tailors. I can't really describe said evolution any more than to say that initially I see PG's clothes, and as time goes by I see more of PG than his clothes. - M

 

[whnay.]

Originally Posted by Parker

+1. That glen plaid is fantastic. Really like both the blazer and the sport coat. Thanks for posting.

So, that isn't roping in the sleeve cap? is it 'wadding'? Would it settle down naturally over time?
I think it looks good in combination with your sloped shoulders, except maybe a little too much on the blue suit.

Thanks.

The blue suit is the newest of the bunch - I've only worn it once. I'm going to ask Mariano next time I'm in Naples about the sleeve caps. See what he thinks.

 

[TheTukker]

Originally Posted by whnay.

Pants are going back to Naples for repair - wanted belt loops instead of side tabs.


Just curious: why? Esthetics? I would have thought they got you somewhat to the same place without the need for a belt.

New commissions look great by the way.

 

[gdl203]

I also prefer belt loops, even if pants fit perfectly without a belt on. I much prefer the look of pants with belts than without.

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by gdl203

I also prefer belt loops, even if pants fit perfectly without a belt on. I much prefer the look of pants with belts than without.

I generally do, too. But after wearing braces for the first time with my dinner suit, I am tempted to switch for suits.

 

[Slewfoot]

Generally speaking I get any custom trousers with side straps as opposed to belt loops. The main reason being the majority of my trousers are RTW and therefore already have belt loops. This way there's more variety.

 

[whnay.]

Originally Posted by Lonneker

Just curious: why? Esthetics? I would have thought they got you somewhat to the same place without the need for a belt.

New commissions look great by the way.

Thanks.

Originally Posted by gdl203

I also prefer belt loops, even if pants fit perfectly without a belt on. I much prefer the look of pants with belts than without.

+1 - I just like the look of it better. Only exception are my DBs which I prefer with side tabs.

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

I generally do, too. But after wearing braces for the first time with my dinner suit, I am tempted to switch for suits.

Eh, I went the other way, mostly. Think twice.

 

[whnay.]

Originally Posted by mmkn

I think Rubi does you better than A&S - and look forward to seeing the your evolution with them as PG has with his tailors.- M

I tend to agree although to be fair I've spent a lot more time with Rubinacci than A&S.

 

[ohm]

Originally Posted by Manton

Eh, I went the other way, mostly. Think twice.

Was it comfort or aesthetics?

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by Manton

Eh, I went the other way, mostly. Think twice.
But it feels so loose and free! And felted braces with white leather tips look cool.