1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

The Rubinacci Thread.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by whnay., Jun 6, 2008.

  1. riverrun

    riverrun Senior member

    Messages:
    478
    Joined:
    May 16, 2006
    Thanks whnay. Great thread (except for the last couple pages of derailed railing back and forth) - I love the DB. Despite some other comments here, I'm very much in favor of the tie: from a distance it actually looks quite like an hermes I have with blue elephants in place of those boxes [​IMG]. I like the full upper arms, but one thing I notice in comparison to matt's DB's is that the shoulders seem quite a bit narrower and there doesn't appear to be the front cut. Are these optical illusions, intentional choices, or differences dependence on where you are measured and fit? Congrats again and thanks for sharing.
     
  2. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,568
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    But, of course, given the tenderness of some members' delicate sensibilities, I wouldn't want you to DIVULGE anything too intimate!

    You know the stuff is from Rubinacci, you know where they are and how to find them, and you know what they charge. What the hell else could you possibly want to know, that you have any right to ask?

    David, just because you tell us in numbing detail (unprompted) about all the little details of your spending habits and financial life does not mean that you have the right to expect that we are obligated to tell you in return.

    And now, you may have the last word. I hope you will use it to ask probing, rude, unwarranted questions about money.
     
  3. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,568
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    there doesn't appear to be the front cut.

    FWIW, "front cut" (at least in SR lingo) does not refer to the front dart, it's just another term for side bodies. They typical A&S coat has one or two darts that end at the pocket. A front cut coat has a rear dart that goes from the scye to the hem, hence the coat has a sidebody or panel. The coat body will be made from six rather than four pieces.

    I don't know if SR even has a term for a front dart that runs to the bottom, or even if any SR tailors ever do that. I don't recall ever seeing it.
     
  4. brescd01

    brescd01 Senior member

    Messages:
    543
    Joined:
    Apr 23, 2004
    Really, Manton, I agree with RJMan, you need to switch to decaf! Or better yet, post some more pictures of your pretty folded-up shirts, I enjoyed that and I KNOW you did too.
     
  5. RJman

    RJman Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    18,647
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2004
    Location:
    In the not too distant future
    Really, Manton, I agree with RJman...

    Stop, please!

    Also, it's "RJman", not "RJMan".
     
  6. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

    Messages:
    6,452
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2007
    Location:
    New York
    Well done whnay! I personally would have prefered a leaner fit, but I think your DB looks stunning. Look forward to pics of your SCs in the future.
     
  7. mmkn

    mmkn Senior member

    Messages:
    1,442
    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2007
    [​IMG]

    Whnay,

    If you could ask the photographer to lower the camera (or themselves) slightly, it would make it easier to compare yours to the Matts' and Cantabrigian's - i.e. less superiorly angulated parallax.

    I've only to add that your right trouser leg lines looks clean while your left looks droopy and slightly excessive in fabric. Personally I would also do flaps on your waist pockets along with the other stylistic cues (trouser cuffs, amount of shirt cuffs showing).

    Also have to say that your stooped slightly forward posture (compared to the others') illustrates Rubinacci's fitting abilities for me.

    Thanks,

    - M
     
  8. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

    Messages:
    25,756
    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2007
    The more I look at the examples of the Rubinacci DB suit, the more I like it...and I liked it a lot when I saw my first photograph of one.

    - B
     
  9. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    14,384
    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2006
    Location:
    The wild and the pure.
    Personally I would also do flaps on your waist pockets along with the other stylistic cues (trouser cuffs, amount of shirt cuffs showing).

    Also have to say that your stooped slightly forward posture (compared to the others') illustrates Rubinacci's fitting abilities for me.

    Thanks,

    - M


    Can you explain these two comments? I understand the first half of the first one, but not the second half. The second one I don't really get at all.
     
  10. whnay.

    whnay. Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    9,420
    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2005
    Location:
    Atlanta, GA
    lol point taken Cantabrigian, I happen to really like the tie! I promise its not as ugly in person.

    As far as the other comments. I'll try my best to replicate Matt stance so that a comparison can be properly made.

    To the other nits....

    If the jacket was any leaner it would look cartoonish Eustace, just take my word for it.

    The jacket has flap pockets that were tucked in for the pic.

    I choose LH because of its reputation, its house style and its customer experience. Initially, I was going to try both LH and Andersons but after talking with several Andersons clients I felt that LH offered a better overall experience. I may still try them anyway...

    Again, what I can tell you guys is that I requested from Mariano to have a suit cut to his preferences for me based on a rough description of Matts DB. I wasn't going to hassle over the minute details because at this stage of the bespoke game it isn't worth it, I simply just don't know enough.
     
  11. OxxfordSJLINY

    OxxfordSJLINY Senior member

    Messages:
    659
    Joined:
    Aug 24, 2007
    Location:
    Coram, New York, United States of America, 11767
    The more I look at the examples of the Rubinacci DB suit, the more I like it...and I liked it a lot when I saw my first photograph of one.

    - B


    +1,000,000. I can't wait to see a vested Rubinacci suit (but with a low cut 1B, 2B or 3R2B SB jacket and a classic style SB vest, preferably 6X5B and preferably with a notch lapel, though 5B and 6B and/or w/o a lapel will do just fine). [​IMG]

    FWIW, 3R2B is three buttons rolled to two buttons.
     
  12. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    7,761
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2005
    Location:
    Yerba Buena
    Whnay, I love the shoulders on the jacket. The sloping with a slight rope bump at the sleevehead looks really great. This is a bit different than Matt's shoulder style, but I like it.
     
  13. Mildly Consumptive

    Mildly Consumptive Senior member

    Messages:
    1,100
    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2007

    [​IMG]




    iammatt, I like pretty well everything about this jacket, especially the fabric. Is it a vintage cloth, or something from a book?





    .
     
  14. whnay.

    whnay. Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    9,420
    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2005
    Location:
    Atlanta, GA
    Here are some of my favorites from Matt: [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] The man himself: [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  15. riverrun

    riverrun Senior member

    Messages:
    478
    Joined:
    May 16, 2006
    FWIW, "front cut" (at least in SR lingo) does not refer to the front dart, it's just another term for side bodies. They typical A&S coat has one or two darts that end at the pocket. A front cut coat has a rear dart that goes from the scye to the hem, hence the coat has a sidebody or panel. The coat body will be made from six rather than four pieces.

    I don't know if SR even has a term for a front dart that runs to the bottom, or even if any SR tailors ever do that. I don't recall ever seeing it.


    Interesting to note, Manton. Anyway, my general comment stands: whnay's DB looks exceptional, and noting the differences from matt's (the front dart, the shoulders) just reinforces that the appeal of the LH suits posted here on SF isn't reducible to one particular detail or another.
     
  16. aportnoy

    aportnoy Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,790
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    Don't recall seeing Matt's tux before...it's perfect![​IMG]
     
  17. mpickens8982

    mpickens8982 Active Member

    Messages:
    41
    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2007
    As a frequent lurker who mainly uses SF to find deals in B&S, I have only read that iammatt had a nice collection of Rubinacci bespoke clothing. That last post by whnay of pics from Matt's collection resoundingly proves it. I love the sportcoats especially. Two questions for you, iammatt, if you are kind enough to respond:

    1) Are your cuffs 2" or are they bigger than that? I love them and have recently asked for 2" cuffs on several of my own things.

    2) Why the longer rise? Was this your choice or Mariano's influence?---The only thing I think I would change is the pant rise on some of your outfits (I'm thinking particularly of one of the lighter gray suits from an earlier post in the thread). I love your jacket length, waist-supression, button-stance and the trimmer leg on your trousers. These all seem to harmonize well. The one dissonant element I notice is the longer rise on pants. It seems to shorten your lower body a bit.
     
  18. Mildly Consumptive

    Mildly Consumptive Senior member

    Messages:
    1,100
    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2007
    The one dissonant element I notice is the longer rise on pants. It seems to shorten your lower body a bit.

    I thought a longer rise had the effect of lengthening the leg.
     
  19. mpickens8982

    mpickens8982 Active Member

    Messages:
    41
    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2007
    To my eye, the longer the rise, the shorter the inseam (assuming you wear the pant at the same spot on the waist). I find a longer inseam visually lengthens the leg.
     
  20. Mildly Consumptive

    Mildly Consumptive Senior member

    Messages:
    1,100
    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2007
    To my eye, the longer the rise, the shorter the inseam (assuming you wear the pant at the same spot on the waist). I find a longer inseam visually lengthens the leg.

    Now, I'm not sure what we're talking about. I thought the "rise" was the distance between the bottom of the crutch and the top of the trouser. Thus a longer rise is higher waisted. And I thought higher waisted trousers lengthened the leg. Sorry for the confusion.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by