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The Rubinacci Thread.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by whnay., Jun 6, 2008.

  1. AndrewRogers

    AndrewRogers Senior member

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    RJW buttons are the real deal. They are not the faux horn you often get, which is not straight plastic but ground-down bone mixed with resin and cast as buttons. You only need to get your hands on some RJW buttons to see this. As pointed out, they also have a range of straight plastic and imitation horn buttons.

    For the record, I have never sold RJW buttons nor have I got anything to do with them. They happily sell to anyone and are cheap and easy to deal with.
     
  2. mat135ta

    mat135ta Senior member

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    Best case scenario is that you will get a poor deal since you are placing a relatively small order. Take nataurlaut for example. $4.5 for each button? I mean - WTF? [​IMG] For a 3r2 with 8 cuff buttons and pants, that is a significant chunk of change... for buttons. RJW sells horn buttons that are 1mm thinner but still plenty thick (3mm) for less than a dollar each. Consider for a moment as well that the best buttons in the world will make not a whit of difference to a poorly cut suit, which is the problem with most suits we see here. This button thing is like one of those audiophile things - like $1000 wooden knobs on your stereo player to make it 'sound' better.
    I can get buttons from the factory that supplies Brioni for around $1.5/pc for 24L, $2/pc for 32L. And the buttons are 2mm thicker, if not nicer, than RJW sells. Well said about the cut of suits, but the same go with shirts, yet I will be really disappointed if Borrelli changes the buttons it uses to cheaper thinner ones.
    Don't know anything about RJW but keep in mind that a lot of "horn" buttons that are sold on the market are actually Urea, which are very cheap and can be dyed to make them look like anything. Most people, including merchants, can't tell the difference. The button hierarchy is Urea, Corozo, Horn (moves up in price the lighter it gets in color). I can tell you from experience dealing with one of the largest, if not the largest, wholesalers of horn buttons in the U.S. that you cannot retail quality horn buttons for under a $1.00.
    What about MOP and bone buttons? Where do they lie in the hierarchy? : p
     
  3. The_Foxx

    The_Foxx Senior member

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    BUMP for updates/ more photos. Whnay, did I miss further photos of your recently completed items? I don't think I ever caught photos showing the fit and cut of your chalkstriped suit, etc., if you wouldn't mind posting them/ again.

    thanks!
     
  4. username79

    username79 Senior member

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    I think Bill's suit looks great. Some of you are picky to the point of absurdity, IMO. Here are a couple of mine. [​IMG]
    This tailor does not appear to adjust his cut based on body type. Reminds me of Ambrosi, who appears to like big hips and tiny cuffs on anyone, be it midget or circus clown. Your suit looks great on you because you are tall, thin, fit, and have good posture. The suit of the original poster does not fit well because he is short, rotund, and has posture issues. Had the tailor adjusted his cut for the original's body type, his suit would look far better. [​IMG] A great example of how one style fits two people vastly differently, with a stark contrast in end result.
     
  5. Xiaogou

    Xiaogou Senior member

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    This tailor does not appear to adjust his cut based on body type. Reminds me of Ambrosi, who appears to like big hips and tiny cuffs on anyone, be it midget or circus clown. Your suit looks great on you because you are tall, thin, fit, and have good posture. The suit of the original poster does not fit well because he is short, rotund, and has posture issues. Had the tailor adjusted his cut for the original's body type, his suit would look far better.

    [​IMG]

    A great example of how one style fits two people vastly differently, with a stark contrast in end result.


    IMO, shorter people will benefit from the neopolitan lapel/shoulder. Having a higher lapel gives the appearance of being taller as a longer line is created. Someone like me who is already 6'2" would not benefit from the look.

    Looks like somebody has a serious sloped right shoulder (Iammatt)!
     
  6. pabloj

    pabloj Senior member

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    Still don't get why short people would wear a db suit ...
     
  7. Xiaogou

    Xiaogou Senior member

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    Still don't get why short people would wear a db suit ...

    Nowhere near as bad as a short person having 2" cuffs on their trousers.
     
  8. The_Foxx

    The_Foxx Senior member

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    this comparison makes little sense to me-- clearly, the tailor constructed two very different sets of shoulders for these suits. Whnay's suit has almost a roped effect, while Matt's were done very soft (and likely had considerable break-in time, after repeated wearings). As far as a relationship of height to wearing a 6x2 double breasted suit, seems like bespoke means you are not really limited to a certain style for your shape/ proportion if it is made just for you! didn't many of the very short brazilian diplomats wear bespoke suits well?

    I'd also disagree with your views of body types, but to each his own perspective.

    This tailor does not appear to adjust his cut based on body type. Reminds me of Ambrosi, who appears to like big hips and tiny cuffs on anyone, be it midget or circus clown. Your suit looks great on you because you are tall, thin, fit, and have good posture. The suit of the original poster does not fit well because he is short, rotund, and has posture issues. Had the tailor adjusted his cut for the original's body type, his suit would look far better.

    [​IMG]

    A great example of how one style fits two people vastly differently, with a stark contrast in end result.
     
  9. EnglishLapel

    EnglishLapel Senior member

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    This tailor does not appear to adjust his cut based on body type. Reminds me of Ambrosi, who appears to like big hips and tiny cuffs on anyone, be it midget or circus clown. Your suit looks great on you because you are tall, thin, fit, and have good posture. The suit of the original poster does not fit well because he is short, rotund, and has posture issues. Had the tailor adjusted his cut for the original's body type, his suit would look far better.

    [​IMG]

    A great example of how one style fits two people vastly differently, with a stark contrast in end result.


    This is such bullshit 79, Foxx is right shoulders look totally different and IMO both look great. What's your problem? It's called a HOUSE STYLE, however one can clearly see that the jackets look quite different. You love to criticise...
     
  10. username79

    username79 Senior member

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    This is such bullshit 79, Foxx is right shoulders look totally different and IMO both look great. What's your problem? It's called a HOUSE STYLE, however one can clearly see that the jackets look quite different. You love to criticise...
    You guys blind? The shoulder detail is nearly identical. Change the contrast on your screens and you will see the detail in Iammatt's besides the choice in roping. Besides slight differences in shoulder the jackets are identical. And wouldn't a "HOUSE STYLE" that is not complementary to the wearer be a bad thing? Do you honestly think the above wearer has a suit that works for him? You love to fellate.
     
  11. EnglishLapel

    EnglishLapel Senior member

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    You guys blind? The shoulder detail is nearly identical. Change the contrast on your screens and you will see the detail in Iammatt's besides the choice in roping. Besides slight differences in shoulder the jackets are identical. And wouldn't a "HOUSE STYLE" that is not complementary to the wearer be a bad thing? Do you honestly think the above wearer has a suit that works for him? You love to fellate.

    Yeah I do think it works for him and im not praising for the sake of praise either. Outline why you think it doesn't work for him.
     
  12. EnglishLapel

    EnglishLapel Senior member

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    Oh just saw that you did say why you didn't think it worked for him. However I wouldnt say that whnay. is "rotund". Secondly I don't see how this cut doesn't work for the shorter man.
     
  13. Master Shake

    Master Shake Senior member

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    I have to say that I prefer Bill's DB suit. It just looks more elegant to me. Also, I never understood why people are convinced that short people cannot wear DB suits.
     
  14. apropos

    apropos Senior member

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    You guys blind? The shoulder detail is nearly identical. Change the contrast on your screens and you will see the detail in Iammatt's besides the choice in roping. Besides slight differences in shoulder the jackets are identical. And wouldn't a "HOUSE STYLE" that is not complementary to the wearer be a bad thing? Do you honestly think the above wearer has a suit that works for him? You love to fellate.
    Wow. Every shoulder detail 'nearly identical' except... for the presence of roping?

    I guess the RLBL shoulder is identical to the A&S shoulder... except for roping of course!

    Anyway, you're kinda wrong (blind?).

    For starters, iammatt's shoulder appears to be more extended than whnay's. Look at the angle formed between the shoulder and the outside of the sleeve. Even taking into account the different slope of their shoulders, compare whnay's R shoulder (L on your screen) with iammatt's R shoulder (L on your screen). Big difference, despite the relative closeness in shoulder angle.

    And TBH, that doesn't even look like roping - i.e. there doesn't appear to be any wadding in it - just a bit of con rollino. Does Rubinacci even do roped shoulders in the first place? [​IMG]
     
  15. George

    George Senior member

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    Wow. Every shoulder detail 'nearly identical' except... for the presence of roping? I guess the RLBL shoulder is identical to the A&S shoulder... except for roping of course! Anyway, you're kinda wrong (blind?). For starters, iammatt's shoulder appears to be more extended than whnay's. Look at the angle formed between the shoulder and the outside of the sleeve. Even taking into account, so in that the different slope of their shoulders, compare whnay's R shoulder (L on your screen) with iammatt's R shoulder (L on your screen). Big difference, despite the relative closeness in shoulder angle. And TBH, that doesn't even look like roping - i.e. there doesn't appear to be any wadding in it - just a bit of con rollino. Does Rubinacci even do roped shoulders in the first place? [​IMG]
    The shoulders on both Iammatt's and WHnay look to be both unpadded so in that sense I think they are the same shoulder treatment. Con Rollino is roped.
     
  16. apropos

    apropos Senior member

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    Con Rollino is roped.
    'Roping' implies the deliberate insertion of wadding into the sleevehead to raise a 'rim' around the sleevehead. Con rollino is just the a closed seam + allowance inside sitting in a way that resembles roping, but isn't. It is also usually a little more subtle than deliberately roped shoulders.
     
  17. George

    George Senior member

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    'Roping' implies the deliberate insertion of wadding into the sleevehead to raise a 'rim' around the sleevehead. Con rollino is just the a closed seam + allowance inside sitting in a way that resembles roping, but isn't. It is also usually a little more subtle than deliberately roped shoulders.
    My understanding of roping is that it's a term to describe that rolled effect that you see at the sleeve head which is independent of the way it is constructed. The French have another term for it, derived from the word cigarette IIRC. Not that any of this matters by the way.
     
  18. apropos

    apropos Senior member

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    Fair enough, I guess my understanding leans a little towards the technical side. [​IMG] Re: the cigarette thing, I think the oft-repeated saying is that the height of the roping should not exceed the thickness of a cigarette. Or something along those lines. Either way, it's a concept that Sartoria Sciamat appear to have taken and run away with. [​IMG]
     
  19. George

    George Senior member

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    Fair enough, I guess my understanding leans a little towards the technical side. [​IMG] Re: the cigarette thing, I think the oft-repeated saying is that the height of the roping should not exceed the thickness of a cigarette. Or something along those lines. Either way, it's a concept that Sartoria Sciamat appear to have taken and run away with. [​IMG]
    That's fine. I only have a lay knowledge of tailoring, so I'm aware that my terminology may not be strictly correct from a tailoring perspective. I think that Sciamat shoulder treatment has another name which you find referred to in women's tailoring. Jefferyd will know.
     
  20. username79

    username79 Senior member

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    For starters, iammatt's shoulder appears to be more extended than whnay's. Look at the angle formed between the shoulder and the outside of the sleeve. Even taking into account the different slope of their shoulders, compare whnay's R shoulder (L on your screen) with iammatt's R shoulder (L on your screen). Big difference, despite the relative closeness in shoulder angle.
    Thank you for confirming that only minuscule technical details exist between the two despite significant differences in body type and posture.
     

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