The Rubinacci Thread.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by whnay., Jun 6, 2008.

  1. zalb916

    zalb916 Senior member

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    the sleevehead, what's it called,the fabric roll?? jeez, can't believe I forgot. Just wondering if that will go away and the shoulders more natural. I guess what I am asking is are the shoulders spalla camicia or are they "regular"

    Do you just mean roping?
     
  2. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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    Do you just mean roping?

    Leave it to you Jews to know everything [​IMG]

    Yes, thanks, not sure why I got that mental block [​IMG] to my brain.


    Bill, I know the shirt sleeves are more "casual" but I have sipped from the Kool Aid and think they work better for me on suits and odd jackets. I also like them better on you than the roping on this suit.
     
  3. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    I'm warming up to the lower roll. I've got two gray DBs, this is the super 110s from harrisons - also have a flannel from smiths.

    I think it looks really good. Rubinacci does seem to do a pointier peak lapel, but I bet its the angle of the photo that is throwing people off. Did they cut this jacket looser or the same as your others? It looks a touch slouchier, which I like.

    The lower roll works well, but I'm curious if they made it with the option to button it at the middle? Mine is supposed to be buttonable at both middle and bottom points, but looks better at the middle. You can tell by the way they finished the edge seam.

    Bill, I know the shirt sleeves are more "casual" but I have sipped from the Kool Aid and think they work better for me on suits and odd jackets. I also like them better on you than the roping on this suit.

    I get shirt sleeves on everything, including my dinner jacket. I don't have much concern for whether someone will think they look less formal.
     
  4. oshinex

    oshinex Senior member

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    Please take a good picture of the ties and other stuff so I can reference them on phone orders with Chiara. Thanks!
     
  5. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    the sleevehead, what's it called,the fabric roll?? jeez, can't believe I forgot. Just wondering if that will go away and the shoulders more natural. I guess what I am asking is are the shoulders spalla camicia or are they "regular"

    Do you just mean roping?

    Jeebus...is the the land of the n00bs?

    The odds that a Rubinacci has roping is about zero. Nay's suit jacket is probably a closed seam con rollino, with no wadding or padding as would be the case in a true roped shoulder.

    Bill: looks great and Happy New Year.


    - B
     
  6. Moss

    Moss Senior member

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  7. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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    Jeebus...is the the land of the n00bs?

    The odds that a Rubinacci has roping is about zero. Nay's suit jacket is probably a closed seam con rollino, with no wadding or padding as would be the case in a true roped shoulder.

    Bill: looks great and Happy New Year.


    - B


    I revel in my ignorance and take it as a point of pride not to know every tailoring term in existance.

    Actually, I need to post a pic from Leon magazine, there is a guy there with a suit that the tailor must have stuffed with canoli's in the sleevehead to get so much rollino.
     
  8. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    I revel in my ignorance and take it as a point of pride not to know every tailoring term in existance.

    Native ignorance might be prideful nonchalance, but knowing something and then forgetting is senility.

    Actually, I need to post a pic from Leon magazine, there is a guy there with a suit that the tailor must have stuffed with canoli's in the sleevehead to get so much rollino.

    Like so?

    [​IMG]

    Con rollino on the left, spalla camicia on the right, from Manton's AAAC piece.

    Happy New Year, Eddie.


    - B
     
  9. Cravate_Noire

    Cravate_Noire Senior member

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    Native ignorance might be prideful nonchalance, but knowing something and then forgetting is senility.



    Like so?

    [​IMG]

    Con rollino on the left, spalla camicia on the right, from Manton's AAAC piece.

    Happy New Year, Eddie.


    - B


    Sartoria Sciamat seemes to push their especially fugly version of puff sleeves in menswear.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  10. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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  11. HHD

    HHD Senior member

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    [​IMG] Those Sciamat shoulders really are appalling. At least as dreadful as anything worn by Alexis Carrington... I suppose it doesn't help that the frères Sciamat look like such wet weeds.
     
  12. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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  13. oshinex

    oshinex Senior member

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  14. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    Sartoria Sciamat seemes to push their especially fugly version of puff sleeves in menswear.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    Perhaps an homage to the brilliant reactionary Marquis de Custine whose
    rollino seems especially decadent:

    http://thecia.com.au/reviews/r/images/russian-ark-3.jpg
     
  15. whnay.

    whnay. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I just examined both jackets - Vox is correct - there is no padding at all. Ed, I like both and perhaps will try the shirt shoulder on my next business suit.
     

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