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The Rubinacci Thread.

dauster

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vida

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Well the pandemic is new.

But take bespoke shoes. I think ten years ago, very few people on here had bespoke shoes. Bespoke shoes still aren't common, but there are more people who order them. And there's a greater range of makers.

I can't even remember who ordered bespoke shoes back in the day. Maybe Bengal Stripe? Foo was one of the first to post about his experience with Clev.

Now you can find info about every one of the major West End firms, along with indie makers. There are more than a few Japanese makers. JLP used to be discussed here just as a matter of interest, but now Texasmade has ordered shoes. And you went to Berluti.

For bespoke, RSS used Huntsman and RA. Vox obviously used Steed. Whnay, Iammatt, Foo, Gaz, Mamao, Canta, and some others used Rubinacci.

You still have people on here who use Paone (the original Rubi cutter). And there are many, many more Steed customers. There are also more people using and introducing small Italian makers, including lesser-known ones in Naples. Some guys post Corocos stuff. Pete started a thread about Sicilian tailors and has even introduced a Sicilian tailor to the US.

I just don't think the romanticism is there anymore. I think people used to get really excited about this stuff, especially when people posted about trips and "sartorial excursions." There was a bit of romance behind the assumptions we made about some members, like the supposed rich lifestyles of Will at ASW, RSS, Vox, and Iammatt (that context is mostly gone). People who order bespoke clothes feel more like "normal" people.

But I think when people post a bespoke suit now, it's just a "nice suit." The social dynamic doesn't feel the same. I don't think people romanticize the stuff as much anymore -- either about the wearers, small things like topstitching, photos of workshops, etc. I also think the social dynamic has changed. I wasn't part of the original cohort posting this stuff, but looking through old posts, there seemed to be more camaraderie. There was a bit more playful back and forth. I think that kind of banter is somewhat gone.

Many of the guys I admired most from that original group -- Maomao, Yfyfy, Vox, etc -- are still around, but on other parts of the internet. I mostly miss Foo threads, which were like clothing versions of Curb Your Enthusiasm episodes. They perfectly mixed aspirational shopping with schadenfreude. Every thread followed the same arc and ended in a mishap.

One more thing: I think the availability of reasonably good, affordable tailoring has changed people's perceptions of bespoke. Ten years ago, I was totally wow'd by Iammat's Rubi suits.If you wanted a silhouette like that, you had to go to Naples. Now, you can get 90% of that look in ready to wear.
Agreed. I had not really thought about it in these terms, but you make some interesting points. One thing I might add is that there more stores (The Armoury, Sid Mashburn, Anglo-Italian) that offer quality clothing AND a stylistic vision which was not very common a decade ago. I think these unique and singular business fill a void in that traditional “high fashion or bespoke” jump that was common until the past 7 - 10 years. I think MTM specialists like Stoffa, Saman Amal, P. Johnson also offer a new level of tailoring that speaks to a certain client in the market.
 

sugarbutch

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I will literally fight both of you

Larry David is a goat among goats and I will not hear anything different.
Don't make me get on BART... :)

(I challenge you to find anything in my description which is inaccurate or disparaging of Curb Your Enthusiasm)
 

ValidusLA

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SERF, mon ami. Peasants came later.
Serfs were just lowest tier land-bound peasantry with fewer rights. Serfdom being abolished while peasantry still existed, though this happened at different times in different polities (generally later moving east).

There was also a sliding scale of serfs as almost slaves up to generally free peasantry and everything in between, usually some sort of compelled or owed labor (darkly called robot in parts of the AHE).

Either way Louis IV probably couldn't look down on anyone considering he controlled less than half the land his father had and was near the flailing end branch of the House of Karling at that point.
 

brax

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If my memory serves me, Foo's Matuozzo shirts started coming apart within months
of taking delivery. Your comments that Foo's misadventures in bespoke parallel
Larry David episodes are spot on.
I think that’s half the story. He blamed durability on Carlo Riva but he broke with Matuozzo because he thought she was engaged in some shady business practices. BTW, my Riva shirts are going on 5 years with zero durability issues.
 

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