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The Rubinacci Thread.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by whnay., Jun 6, 2008.

  1. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    One price for all?

    Reading Engels again I see.

    - B
     


  2. A Y

    A Y Senior member

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    In Japan, can't you get a suppository made from kimchi from one of those ubiquitous vending machines?

    You're mixing up your AZNs, but I forgive you because we all do look arike.

    --Andre
     


  3. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    One price for all? Reading Engels again I see. - B
    Yes, even with his flaws. Engel Coefficient not efficient in measuring Chinese people's livelihood
     


  4. srivats

    srivats Senior member

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  5. aportnoy

    aportnoy Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    ^^For fuck's sake, Mariano needs to lock him in the basement.
     


  6. OttoSkadelig

    OttoSkadelig Senior member

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    From my understanding, pulling down on the jacket does two things: (1) reveals flaws, and (2) helps to settle in the jacket.

    All I can say on the latter is that it seems to make a particularly big difference with heavier cloths. It's well-documented by non-Rubinacci clients and tailors that heavy tweed jackets need to be worn for some time before they look their best. My blue donegal jacket fits and feels noticeably better now than when I first got it--and I have routinely tugged down on the fronts or had my wife do it. To me, it makes sense that it would help. If gravity normally does the trick on its own over time, why wouldn't physical pulling speed up the process?


    another trick to achieve more accelerated results is to crush the jacket into a little ball and sit on it while watching TV, etc.

    works particularly well with neapolitan coats due to lack of structure, and, being multi-directional, is more effective than pulling, which works only in the y-axis.
     


  7. George

    George Senior member

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    Lasciate ogne speranze voi qu'intrate
    Here is one for you Voxy:[​IMG]
    I like the way his loathers match the scatter cushions, very sprezzzzzzzz..........
     


  8. aportnoy

    aportnoy Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    another trick to achieve more accelerated results is to crush the jacket into a little ball and sit on it while watching TV, etc.

    works particularly well with neapolitan coats due to lack of structure, and, being multi-directional, is more effective than pulling, which works only in the y-axis.


    Massmo Bizzocchi told me the same thing.
     


  9. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    My tailor uses a carefully selected body double with my exact measurements to wear my garments for two weeks before they get delivered to me. I can request specific activities to be conducted by him in that pre-shaping phase - I always make sure he sleeps on the beach in my suit, gets a lap dance and a bowl of flageolet every morning, and slurps uni soba before bed. I found that the body heat/sweat combined with air humidity, baby oil and digestive gases produces an optimal pre-stressing of the horsehair canvas and trousers zipper.
     


  10. tailorgod

    tailorgod Senior member

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    If I understand correctly, the pull Mariano does, is at the fitting stage of the jacket. This is to keep the jacket, sans lining, to not cling to the shirt. After, he lifts the jacket at the collar/shoulder and lets it settle. This is what you want to do when putting a finished jacket on, the collar thing, pulling on the fronts of a finished jacket is irrelevant and unnecessary. Finished jacket has a imprint of your form and will settle where it is meant to on its own. If not, something may need adjusting.

    We use some sort of trial coats in various sizes (similar to a first fitting) and without a lining.
    It's usually sufficient that the customer moves his arms a bit once the sleeves are pinned on.
    While the felt collar has a pretty soft construction, the shoulders are quite stiffish, so I always check for hollow areas around the neck, which indicate that there is something wrong with the shoulders (in this case they are not straight enough).
    I only do the pulling to see if the coat needs a bit more length at the fronts (mostly for guys with a full chest or a belly).

    I cannot do too much of the pulling thing, though. Most of our customers are beyond their late 60's and not that stable any more. If I did the Mariano thing I might loose a customer and my job.[​IMG]

    Another option to settle your coats without all that pulling and shoe last weighting would be to take a shower with the coat on and letting it air dry on your body to take it's shape. [​IMG][​IMG]
     


  11. tailorgod

    tailorgod Senior member

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    My tailor uses a carefully selected body double with my exact measurements to wear my garments for two weeks before they get delivered to me. I can request specific activities to be conducted by him in that pre-shaping phase - I always make sure he sleeps on the beach in my suit, gets a lap dance and a bowl of flageolet every morning, and slurps uni soba before bed. I found that the body heat/sweat combined with air humidity, baby oil and digestive gases produces an optimal pre-stressing of the horsehair canvas and trousers zipper.

    How does that special treatment add to the final bill?
     


  12. scruff

    scruff Senior member

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    My tailor uses a carefully selected body double with my exact measurements to wear my garments for two weeks before they get delivered to me. I can request specific activities to be conducted by him in that pre-shaping phase - I always make sure he sleeps on the beach in my suit, gets a lap dance and a bowl of flageolet every morning, and slurps uni soba before bed. I found that the body heat/sweat combined with air humidity, baby oil and digestive gases produces an optimal pre-stressing of the horsehair canvas and trousers zipper.

    There's a jean seller in the sprawling weekend market in Bangkok (Chatuchak?) who actually pays local urchins to wear/play in pairs of jeans for 3-4 weeks to distress them. Tres chic.
     


  13. OttoSkadelig

    OttoSkadelig Senior member

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    My tailor uses a carefully selected body double with my exact measurements to wear my garments for two weeks before they get delivered to me. I can request specific activities to be conducted by him in that pre-shaping phase - I always make sure he sleeps on the beach in my suit, gets a lap dance and a bowl of flageolet every morning, and slurps uni soba before bed. I found that the body heat/sweat combined with air humidity, baby oil and digestive gases produces an optimal pre-stressing of the horsehair canvas and trousers zipper.

    fatto a mano, and farto a corpo.
     


  14. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    My tailor uses a carefully selected body double with my exact measurements to wear my garments for two weeks before they get delivered to me. I can request specific activities to be conducted by him in that pre-shaping phase - I always make sure he sleeps on the beach in my suit, gets a lap dance and a bowl of flageolet every morning, and slurps uni soba before bed. I found that the body heat/sweat combined with air humidity, baby oil and digestive gases produces an optimal pre-stressing of the horsehair canvas and trousers zipper.
    There's a jean seller in the sprawling weekend market in Bangkok (Chatuchak?) who actually pays local urchins to wear/play in pairs of jeans for 3-4 weeks to distress them. Tres chic.
    Wasn't someone (APC? Rag & Bone) giving servers at some NYC restaurant free jeans to break in and then re-selling them at the store as the 'Butler' jean? Found it: APC
     


  15. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    My tailor uses a carefully selected body double with my exact measurements to wear my garments for two weeks before they get delivered to me. I can request specific activities to be conducted by him in that pre-shaping phase - I always make sure he sleeps on the beach in my suit, gets a lap dance and a bowl of flageolet every morning, and slurps uni soba before bed. I found that the body heat/sweat combined with air humidity, baby oil and digestive gases produces an optimal pre-stressing of the horsehair canvas and trousers zipper.

    And if he has the same shoe size, this is the best/recommended method to break in new custom Lobbs
     


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