The Rubinacci Thread.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by whnay., Jun 6, 2008.

  1. IndianBoyz

    IndianBoyz Senior member

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    Tailor gives life to the cloth, the man gives life to the suit.

    +1

    Some guys are like zombies though so you will only see a nice suit walking. If there isn't any 'chemistry' between the man and the suit it doesn't make much sense to me.
     


  2. RSS

    RSS Senior member

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    Need, aye, but want?

    The best things in life are free
    But you can give them to the birds and bees
    I want money

    That's what I want
    That's what I want
    That's what I want

    You love gives me such a thrill
    But your love won't pay my bills
    I want money

    That's what I want
    That's what I want
    That's what I want

    Money don't get everything it's true
    But what it don't get I can't use
    I want money

    That's what I want
    That's what I want
    That's what I want

    I want money
    I want lots of money
    In fact I want so much money
    Give me your money
    Just give me money
    (To buy bespoke)​
     


  3. Bull

    Bull Senior member

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    No, it's not odd at all. Honestly, what you're saying is simply objectively wrong. The outermost point of your jacket shoulders should not necessarily match that of your own. They say so in GQ and Esquire, but it's rote idiocy--just like when they tell you "high armholes" and pick-stitching make a better suit. The real story is that it depends on your particular physique and the style of the jacket.

    I read neither GQ or Esquire, and I still disagree with you. Bottom line: if the armscye is hanging a few inches off of your shoulder, I could give a fuck what anyone says - it's going to look crazy and awful. Doesn't matter if the Rubi's think it looks acceptable. To me, they cut an unacceptably long sleeve - I'm sure it's not beyond them to fuck up the shoulder every once in a while (as they did with Beppe) and to say it's deliberate, as well (and for you to believe it).

    As for narrow shoulders being all over SF, I took a quick spin through the Foofing thread and could not find an obvious example of shoulders being cut too narrow. Again, probably just my un-discerning eyes again, but what I see WAY more of is shoulder pads protruding far off of the shoulder. I still need to see a clear cut example of narrow shoulders so that I can understand this concept.

    Are Phat Guido's shoulders cut too narrow? Maybe some would say so, but, to me, they look basically flawless.
     


  4. johnybob

    johnybob Member

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    wow, this thread pics look like poor cosplay to me
    but maybe im jealous of midget asians spending thousands to look like a white person...

    p.s. im midget asian myself, so no hate pls
     


  5. SpooPoker

    SpooPoker Internet Bigtimer and Most Popular Man on Campus Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    wow, this thread pics look like poor cosplay to me
    but maybe im jealous of midget asians spending thousands to look like a white person...

    p.s. im midget asian myself, so no hate pls


    Someone needs to sig this.
     


  6. kolecho

    kolecho Senior member

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    wow, this thread pics look like poor cosplay to me
    but maybe im jealous of midget asians spending thousands to look like a white person...

    p.s. im midget asian myself, so no hate pls



    Forgiven since it is your 4th post, but 4 might bring you bad luck also [​IMG]
     


  7. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    Someone needs to sig this.

    it's tempting...
     


  8. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  9. johnybob

    johnybob Member

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    actually, that's my friend, he used my account
    i'm between us 4 and us 3 in shoes
     


  10. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    Money don't get everything it's true
    But what it don't get I can't use


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    - B
     


  11. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    I read neither GQ or Esquire, and I still disagree with you. Bottom line: if the armscye is hanging a few inches off of your shoulder, I could give a fuck what anyone says - it's going to look crazy and awful. Doesn't matter if the Rubi's think it looks acceptable. To me, they cut an unacceptably long sleeve - I'm sure it's not beyond them to fuck up the shoulder every once in a while (as they did with Beppe) and to say it's deliberate, as well (and for you to believe it).
    Rubinacci cuts an unacceptably long sleeve but Sciamat cuts an acceptably poofy sleevehead? [​IMG] Here is the simple truth: it takes zero added skill or effort to cut sleeves half a centimeter shorter, so not doing so implies a conscious choice. Moreover, there is no settled debate as to how much shirt cuff one should show. Some say only a silver, if at all. As for the armscye issue: a number of very reputable bespoke tailors are known to extend jacket shoulders. Are they simply too incompetent or lazy to do otherwise? My opinion on this issue is based on what looks good to me, speaking to more experienced bespoke clients, and learning from tailors themselves. If you aren't getting your rules from GQ or Esquire, what on earth inspired your theory of shoulder fit? Honestly, it sounds bizarre to me--not unlike when someone asserts that trousers should never have pleats or that jacket length should be measured with respect to some point on one's hands. If I recall, you are a fan of Luca Rubinacci's suits. Care to wager how much shoulder extension he's got? This isn't a fair bet.
    As for narrow shoulders being all over SF, I took a quick spin through the Foofing thread and could not find an obvious example of shoulders being cut too narrow. Again, probably just my un-discerning eyes again, but what I see WAY more of is shoulder pads protruding far off of the shoulder. I still need to see a clear cut example of narrow shoulders so that I can understand this concept.
    One of my most frequent fixes is to extend the shoulders. When they are too narrow, arms bulge and waists disappear.
     


  12. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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    I'm not even sure what you're getting at when you say "more revealing." No doubt I will be called arrogant or blind for saying so, but I think a large part of the problem is that many people simply don't know what they're looking at and have no idea how to assess a suit's fit.

    All it takes for a suit's fit to garner widespread praise on SF are "high armholes" and a cinched-in waist. That's a pretty low and misplaced bar.


    Allow me: this post does indeed come across as a bit arrogant. Not blind, just a bit arrogant.

    Meow Meow's Liverano is probably one of the best SC's I've seen posted on SF ever. But that's just my opinion, of course.

    It's indeed just your opinion, but you're not alone in holding it.
     


  13. maomao1980

    maomao1980 Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think it's more because on a RTW coat, extended shoulders genuinely ARE a sign of "too big" because of the way RTW block patterns are cut. The whole architecture of the coat--every other dimension--is based on the sizing of the shoulders. The rest will not only look but actually be "too big." You can cinch in the waist to accomodate for that but that's about all you can do.

    Whereas with bespoke the extended shoulder is part of an overall whole that is more fitted to you; not just the waist but the chest, the length, the skirt, the back, the sleeve width, and on and on. I suppose someone could design a RTW block pattern that achieves this, and maybe someone has, but I don't know of any current examples.

    Keep in mind also that extended shoulders can be made (roughly speaking) in one of two ways. Either they are meant to droop down or they are quite padded and sort of "stick out." The latter is really uncommon these days but was all the rage in the late '30s through the mid '40s. It's a very agressive look. Check out those suits and you will see that the rest of the coat is quite fitted. They don't look "too big" but they do look exaggerated, taste-wise, by today's standards.


    Some Kiton jackets have extended shoulders, but not even close to the degree of extension on bespoke.
     


  14. Nicola

    Nicola Senior member

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    Shoulder boards look great.

    I'm amazed anybody would argue somebody like the older gentleman in the photo would look better with narrower shoulders. He'd end up looking like an egg.
     


  15. braised

    braised Senior member

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    - B


    Dude, that's genius!
     


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