The Road to Bespoke - (How do you know you are ready?)

[Sartorially Striving]

Yeah, I follow you. I think it is more about the learning process. There are several errors one can make in learning how to navigate bespoke (as I have been able to discern.) By learning on something 'classic' it is a more 'forgiving' process. (As least as I am able to understand it and only have these forums to work off of, hence my questions.)

@maxalex , care to chime in? From what I can discern you have considerable knowledge about the bespoke process.

I'd be interested to hear your thoughts on "several errors" as well.

 

[WSW]

Cheers. Of those you listed, other than Field, who would you recommend?

Fields feels fairly expensive for my first bespoke. I would prefer to work with someone more 'forgiving...' (if possible.)

Like Emptym stated, the top tier British tailors will be at least the same price, if not more. If you pick one of Field's stock fabrics (he has a fairly extensive selection of bolts on hand), it might be $200-300 less. I am actually surprised at how little he charges given the amount of time and effort he puts into your initial consultation, the subsequent fittings and of course, the extensive handwork in the coat and trousers themselves. Very much worth it!

Dege is offering a 10% discount right now on bespoke - wouldn't hurt to ask if they'd be willing to apply the discount during their March visit to D.C. It'll still be around $4k depending on how the exchange rate shakes out then.

 

[La Fin Du Monde]

Like Emptym stated, the top tier British tailors will be at least the same price, if not more. If you pick one of Field's stock fabrics (he has a fairly extensive selection of bolts on hand), it might be $200-300 less. I am actually surprised at how little he charges given the amount of time and effort he puts into your initial consultation, the subsequent fittings and of course, the extensive handwork in the coat and trousers themselves. Very much worth it!

Dege is offering a 10% discount right now on bespoke - wouldn't hurt to ask if they'd be willing to apply the discount during their March visit to D.C. It'll still be around $4k depending on how the exchange rate shakes out then.

Any idea what Field charges for a blazer? I would like to replace my navy blazer that no longer fits and this would make sense for a first bespoke item.

 

[lordsuperb]

Gentlemen,

How do you know you are ready for bespoke? Obviously, you need to be able to afford it. In addition to the financial resources, how did you know you were ready?


I found this quote from @Leaves that got me thinking.


“Agree 100%. First 5-6 projects should ideally be very, very basic stuff commissioned over a long time period. First one should always be a navy suit or a navy jacket and gray trousers IMO. Something you could wear everyday.”

Would you agree?

I am based in Washington DC and in my mid-40’s – not sure if anyone could recommend someone to work with in the DC area?


Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

Try these first before going bespoke.

http://www.nomanwalksalone.com/index.php/makers/makersinfo/view/id/125/

 

[La Fin Du Monde]

I'd be interested to hear your thoughts on "several errors" as well.

There is a lot to figure out, ergo plenty of opportunities for mistakes. E.g what type of pockets, the lining, type of lapels, material, color buttons etc. So it will take a while to figure this out and bespoke ain't cheap. Therefore, I am trying to learn as much as I can before I 'venture forth.'

 

[La Fin Du Monde]

Try these first before going bespoke.

http://www.nomanwalksalone.com/index.php/makers/makersinfo/view/id/125/

Help me out here. Do they offer the same tailoring as bespoke? (What is the advantage to this option versus bespoke?)

 

[maxalex]

Thanks, this confirms my thoughts. I would prefer to pick something that I would wear often, vs something that get only occasional use.

How did you make the transition from OTR to bespoke? Did you start out in Italy or first work with someone in the US?

I am fortunate to live and work in Italy part of the year so I have only had bespoke there.

 

[lordsuperb]

Help me out here. Do they offer the same tailoring as bespoke? (What is the advantage to this option versus bespoke?)

Yes, the suits are hand made without the fittings. The advantage with this option is that if the suit fits you don't have look any further.


The suits have a better styling than anything you'll find in D.C..

 

[La Fin Du Monde]

I am fortunate to live and work in Italy part of the year so I have only had bespoke there.

You sir, fill me with equal parts admiration and jealousy. That would be the ideal way to go bespoke...

 

[La Fin Du Monde]

Yes, the suits are hand made without the fittings. The advantage with this option is that if the suit fits you don't have look any further.


The suits have a better styling than anything you'll find in D.C..

Yes, they are beautiful, it is just a question of fit. It is too bad they don't have a brick and mortar store so I could try it on first...

 

[lordsuperb]

Yes, they are beautiful, it is just a question of fit. It is too bad they don't have a brick and mortar store so I could try it on first...

They have a warehouse in NYC where you can try on the jackets. Another option is to order online and return the suit after you try it on. Greg offers free returns.

 

[WSW]

Any idea what Field charges for a blazer? I would like to replace my navy blazer that no longer fits and this would make sense for a first bespoke item.

$2600 and up, depending on the fabric of course.

Of note, Field cuts what he calls an English suit, which is more structured and strong through the shoulders than the Formosa suits that were recommended as an additional option. Also they're different products - bespoke vs RTW. There's an interview Field did a few years ago posted on the forum where he talks about his house style and how he works with clients - may be worth a read. I'm sure he'd also be glad to have a informal chat over the phone or in person.

 

[La Fin Du Monde]

They have a warehouse in NYC where you can try on the jackets. Another option is to order online and return the suit after you try it on. Greg offers free returns.

Thanks!
Do you know where it is located?

 

[La Fin Du Monde]

$2600 and up, depending on the fabric of course.

Of note, Field cuts what he calls an English suit, which is more structured and strong through the shoulders than the Formosa suits that were recommended as an additional option. Also they're different products - bespoke vs RTW. There's an interview Field did a few years ago posted on the forum where he talks about his house style and how he works with clients - may be worth a read. I'm sure he'd also be glad to have a informal chat over the phone or in person.

Any idea where that link is? Would love to read it. I prefer a more natural shoulder and don't want anything too pronounced. Would be interested to see what it is like...

I suppose most of the other English tailors you mentioned would also be around this price range?

 

[lordsuperb]

Thanks!
Do you know where it is located?

336 W 37th St
New York, NY 10018
United States