The return of the heavy cloths

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by lasbar, Apr 17, 2009.

  1. lasbar

    lasbar Senior member

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    A few years ago ,anything above the 12/13 ounces mark and you would have passed for some old-fashioned eccentric but now ,we're living the charge of the heavy weight cloth brigade...''

    After years of enduring the supremacy of the supers 180',200' and so on , the tailors are promoting more than ever the heavier cloths...
    Is it just a fad , a return to basics ,to the good old times when a cloth was an armour or more in touch with today's more austere way of thinking....

    At Norton, I was advised to pick a 14 oz woolen flannel for this winter...Is it heavy enough or the 15/16 ounces I was thinking of is just the result of groupthinking?
     


  2. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

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    14 oz is a good winter weight for a woolen flannel in most places.

    I've got a vintage piece that's heavier (I'd say about 500 g) and feels almost like a tweed of sorts (in a good way: rugged mottling etc.), but I can't imagine wearing it unless it's really quite cold. And that's probably why I haven't taken it to my tailor yet.
     


  3. Mildly Consumptive

    Mildly Consumptive Senior member

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    At Norton, I was advised to pick a 14 oz woolen flannel for this winter...Is it heavy enough or the 15/16 ounces I was thinking of is just the result of groupthinking?



    14 oz woolen flannel? I guess even Savile Row tailors have been infected by the SF Groupthink.

    I have a pair of heavyweight (16oz?) woolen flannel trousers and I think they're great for winter. Winter here in Canada may be a little colder than where you are. But I still wear them in the Spring. Around 20 degrees Celsius (68 Fahrenheit) is my personal limit for winter-weight clothes.
     


  4. lasbar

    lasbar Senior member

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    I was taken aback by Patrick Grant's reaction because he is a great Dandy and wears impeccable suits...
    I told him that I wanted to go for the 475 grams or 16 ounces and he told me that London winters were too mild to accomodate such heavy weight cloth...
    I like the idea to wear an armour and the woolen cloth was so heavy that I wanted to wrap my body with this delicious flannel..
    It is in the Harrison book at the back....I like simplicity for my suit leaving more space to play with my shirts...It is the dark charcoal i'm going to as I have a very dark hair with an average skin tone...
     


  5. RJman

    RJman Posse Member Dubiously Honored

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    How are PHOQUESTONE winters?
     


  6. yachtie

    yachtie Senior member

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    Heavy worsteds wear cool- 16/17 oz worsteds are a "3 season" cloth around here. 14 oz flannels are fine for fall / winter indoors.
     


  7. lasbar

    lasbar Senior member

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    Folkestone is milder than London...I don't think there is a big difference between a 14 and a 16 ounces..
    I have 3 months to make my mind up...
     


  8. Michael Ay329

    Michael Ay329 Senior member

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    14oz flannel is not heavy and I'm commissioning some 16oz worsteds

    I live here in Los Angeles and wore this London Lounge Triple Overcheck 14oz flannel throughout our very mild winters and into spring. I have never overheated.

    I also wore it around town in Athens, Greece back in early March where the weather dipped into the 35-50 degrees Fahrenheit range. It provided me with adequate protection outdoors and was a pleasure to wear indoors.

    If anything my experience with 14oz emboldened me to try heavier cloths...stay tuned

    Kudos to FNB for helping my find the skull lining

    [​IMG]
     


  9. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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    14oz??? Please, that is not winter weight. I can happilly walk a few miles in 14oz cloth and not break a sweat. 22oz cloth is the entry point for what I consider winter weight, with 26oz being the sweet spot.

    Sator
     


  10. Michael Ay329

    Michael Ay329 Senior member

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    22 to 26oz?????? This is heavy stuff

    Edmorel...you need to stop hanging out with that renegade Sator

    I dare you to find one forum member who has a 22oz suit (and has posted a picture)...not just trousers..

    The London Lounge has a heavyweight suit cloth project and its ONLY 16.5OZ.
     


  11. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    14 oz woolen flannel? I guess even Savile Row tailors have been infected by the SF Groupthink.

    I have a pair of heavyweight (16oz?) woolen flannel trousers and I think they're great for winter. Winter here in Canada may be a little colder than where you are. But I still wear them in the Spring. Around 20 degrees Celsius (68 Fahrenheit) is my personal limit for winter-weight clothes.


    14oz flannel is fine for me. I have three suits of it. I don't think I would like 16 oz flannel, but I do have a 16oz worsted to make up.
    On the other hand, I am also happy getting 8 or 9 oz cloth for the summer.
     


  12. Michael Ay329

    Michael Ay329 Senior member

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    I concur with Dopey as to my hesitancy with 16oz flannel. I picked up 3 16oz worsteds in Athens and the LL Heavyweight Brown suit in 16.5oz is a tweed (which I thought tweed doesn't wear as warm as woolen flannel).

    Anyone have a 16oz woolen flannel suit which they can post pics and comments on their experiences with it????
     


  13. lasbar

    lasbar Senior member

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    I will try the 16 ounces because i do think that they have a place in our wardrobes...
    I do also wear Crombie overcoat and they are not the warmest in the world...
    As I do want some flannel , I will start most likely with a 16 ouces especially with the different comments from 14 ounces wearers...
     


  14. countdemoney

    countdemoney Senior member

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    The heavier weights grow on you.
     


  15. StephenHero

    StephenHero Black Floridian

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    I find that heavier suits bring me more peace of mind. I'm always afraid I will rip a hole through finer cloths by doing something stupid.
     


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