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The Quintessential Dress Shoe: Black Cap Toe Oxford

Vinsep

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Finally I decided to read the entire thread today.

In my naivety I thought @wurger would stop at 8 pairs of black cap toe.:blush::blush::blush: I think it would be great if you can include your latter collections to the main post. So the lazy asses like me won’t miss them.

You have a pair of St.Crispins. I remember you said you were not that satisfied. Except the fact that your personal last didn’t work out that well for you, do you have any other compaints?

I just ordered a pair of black cap toe from Vass on F last. I will contribute when I got them.

It seems like in the states people who pay attention to shoes don’t like black shoes that much. I really don’t understand why they are somehow “stigmatized”.

What baffles me even more is that why is Alfred Sargent not immensely more popular. Great quality with right price. Why?
 

wurger

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Thanks mate, I got lazy and didn’t ask to mods to edit my original post.

The problem with SC is that they are very hard to maintain their good looks.

People prefer to stick to what they know, but AS is much a gem of shoe maker with its pricing right now, pick them up while it lasts.
 

shoesforever

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@wurger I believe they do offer aniline dyed leather as well. The maintenance issues are only related to their crust leather due to hand dyeing.

@Vinsep I believe the stigmatization is due to the associations we usually get. It is one of the most formal colors. To tone down the formality and get more variation in color, shoe enthusiasts tend to favor brown. The color black also won't develop much of a patina over time. People who are not familiar with the rules of formality tend to wear black oxfords with anything from shorts to dark colored suits. Black shoes do go well with a lot of colors though. I think wearing really light tan shoes with dark suits is way worse. Have to add that black shoes with different shades of grey is a great combo.
As long as one know the rules before breaking them, I'm fine with it.
 
Last edited:

AriG

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Just got these yesterday, so I thought I'd post them here.

Pedder model from the Armoury in 8.5 UK. Made in Northampton, and they wouldn't tell by whom, though I have a pretty good idea. Last designed by Yohei Fukuda, simulated cap toe. Price is HKD 3,800, which puts them more or less in the same bracket as similar offerings C&J (Main Line) or Carmina.

I haven't worn them yet, just gave them a polish. From trying them on, they fit true to size, and are quite flexible. I suspect the simulated cap toe helps in this respect. They come with two pairs of laces, one flat, one round, which is a nice touch.

Will wear them in the next few weeks and report back to the forum to show how they evolve.

0iagBTn.jpg

flanker, did you get a chance to wear these more? They look fantastic in these shots how are they holding up? Considering them ...

I wear a size 7E in C&J (348 only) but it's not the perfect fit (could be slightly snugger even though instep is too low for me, G&G 7 is perfect), what's your take? Same size?

Thanks!
 

Vinsep

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I received my Vass black captoe last week. However it has been rainy until today. It took around 8 weeks from the day I placed my order to the day I received them.

They are on G width and F last. It is my first pair of handwelted shoes. They seem to be slightly lighter than my GYW shoes. However the difference is not huge, I cannot tell when I'm wearing them.

The leather Vass uses is quite beautiful and flawless, at least to me as a layman. I'm not sure how well they will age though.

The pattern is fairly normal except the heel. It has no dog tail, back strap, back stay, or even the seam at the bottom. There is simply no seam at all. To me this seems to be a better approach since it is much cleaner. Although nobody will be looking at it, and most people do not care about such detail, but knowing it's clean somehow comforts me. I'm not sure why other high end makers don't make their black cap toe like this. Maybe it's limited to hand lasted shoes?
 

WhyUEarly

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I received my Vass black captoe last week. However it has been rainy until today. It took around 8 weeks from the day I placed my order to the day I received them.

They are on G width and F last. It is my first pair of handwelted shoes. They seem to be slightly lighter than my GYW shoes. However the difference is not huge, I cannot tell when I'm wearing them.

The leather Vass uses is quite beautiful and flawless, at least to me as a layman. I'm not sure how well they will age though.

The pattern is fairly normal except the heel. It has no dog tail, back strap, back stay, or even the seam at the bottom. There is simply no seam at all. To me this seems to be a better approach since it is much cleaner. Although nobody will be looking at it, and most people do not care about such detail, but knowing it's clean somehow comforts me. I'm not sure why other high end makers don't make their black cap toe like this. Maybe it's limited to hand lasted shoes?

Did you order them directly from Vass? I read on SF that they don't take MTO orders from new customers...
 

vriche

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Did you order them directly from Vass? I read on SF that they don't take MTO orders from new customers...

Yes. Of course they do... email them

I was always under the impression that they didn't take direct orders from new customers in the US. Can anyone confirm if that's still the case?
 

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