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The Quintessential Dress Shoe: Black Cap Toe Oxford

vriche

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Maybe I didn't list this as a factor in my initial post, but I would also prefer GYW construction. Looking at Founders Footwear, the last shape and the double leather sole disqualify the model from consideration (it doesn't have the elegance of Yanko or 7L imo). Carlos Santos, as @vriche mentioned, is an incredible shoe. However, I am not sure what deals make it go below $300, so please chime in! I have a pair of derbies on the 160 last which fit me quite well.
I was referring to this pair from Quality Shop: https://www.quality-shop.com/eu/brands/carlos-santos/carlos-santos-dress-shoes-in-black.

They actually went up a little but should still be under $300. I got the Brown pair on Black Friday last year with shipping and shoe trees for under $200.
 
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SJR3

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I just checked out Founders as I never heard of them until now. The last is pretty unattractive IMO and the construction is Blake Rapid compared to all the shoes mentioned to the OP which are Goodyear welted.

I would recommend Carlos Santos. You can find them for under $300 including shoe trees and shipping to the US.

Those are fair criticisms, but I'll just say that if you're judging the last shape based solely from the pics on the Founders website, the shoes look better in real life. Their own website pictures don't do the shoes justice. But if you like a really sleek, chiseled, and elongated shape, then Founders' oxfords are not going to be to your liking, I'll admit that.

For my needs and preference for a slightly more conservative English design, I'm happy with my Founders. They definitely have a better shape than the oft recommended and lauded AE Park Avenue (though the AE 5 last gets criticized for its stodgy shape and small toe cap).

I'm no expert so I won't try to weigh in on the Goodyear vs. Blake Rapid debate except to say that @SchachMundialECapital said he'll wear his black captoe oxfords sparingly, maybe 15 times per year. I'm also in this category of needing black oxfords only for special occasions. So being worn ≈15 times per year, it's not like we're talking about a shoe that will need to be resoled every year or so. At this rate, the shoes will likely last 10+ years without needing a resole, no matter GY or Blake Rapid construction.
 

Cleav

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IMG_4596.JPG
 

smfdoc

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Black Alden shell cap toe and then with his cousin the perfed cap toe.

IMG_2280.jpg
IMG_2328.jpg
 

Cleav

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Cleav, what is it you do to have shoes that barely crease? I've noticed this with a lot of your other shoe snaps as well.

Erm, I wear em, dust them off at end of day, shoe trees in, bag em up. That and a (un?)healthy rotation perhaps.
 

lullemans72

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Erm, I wear em, dust them off at end of day, shoe trees in, bag em up. That and a (un?)healthy rotation perhaps.

I see. So just regular trees, and not lasted ones? I was curious since I do the same as you, but my shoes crease much more even with trees, and I haven't ever seen anyone with that little creasing through regular wear.
 

Cleav

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I see. So just regular trees, and not lasted ones? I was curious since I do the same as you, but my shoes crease much more even with trees, and I haven't ever seen anyone with that little creasing through regular wear.

Lasted trees and regular trees, with regular wear in a rotation of a few (!) pairs of shoes.

Perhaps you should get out more.
 

lullemans72

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Lasted trees and regular trees, with regular wear in a rotation of a few (!) pairs of shoes.

Perhaps you should get out more.

Very impressive then.

Trust me, I get out plenty. I just don't see it around my neck of the woods.
 

wurger

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I think it’s to do with the fit of the shoes to you feet, big creases will occur if there are too much room in the vamp; if too little room, the leather will dig into you toe and that will hurt a lot.

For cleav shots, his feet are all stretching out, or at least there are no bending force on the shoes, with good shine and lighting, makes a good photo.

Brushing and shoe trees won’t do much to reduce creasing.
 

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