The Quintessential Dress Shoe: Black Cap Toe Oxford

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by wurger, Sep 15, 2013.

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  1. stevent

    stevent Senior member

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    What service does vass ship with?
     
  2. barky

    barky Senior member

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    stevent : fedex, i believe

    rogerp : are your shoes in italian polish?
     
  3. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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    barky - no - the Italian polish as I understand it is more of a glossy mirror finish.

    Re. price - I know there was a recent across-the-board increase, but I don't recall the new base price. I believe the sub- Euro 400 shoes may be a thing of the past. As always, best to check with the source when in doubt.

    I am sure that the Vass staff are wonderful to deal with - I have never heard anything less than stellar accounts. I have dealt with re-sellers for two primary reasons: ease of payment (Vass doesn't take credit cards, and standing in line in a bank at lunchtime for a wire transfer makes me feel like Fred Flintstone) and registered, trackable postal shipping (shipment by courier for me almost always results in maximum duties, taxes and bonus brokerage fees on top of all that).
     
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2013
  4. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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    Crockett & Jones

    In 1879 Crockett & Jones was founded by Charles Jones and James Crockett in Northampton. They were able to establish Crockett & Jones with a grant from Thomas White Trust that encouraged entrepreneurs at the time.

    Jonathan Jones, the current Managing Director, joined the company in 1977. At that time, a decision was taken to re-focus the business. From then onwards they would concentrate on producing men’s high quality Goodyear Welted footwear and developing export sales in Europe, USA and Japan. A new marketing division was put in place under Jonathan’s management and the UK and International collections were re-defined. Crockett & Jones continue to export about 70% of its production, now into its 5th generation family business with 3 ranges, Hand Grade Collection, Main Collection and Shell Cordovan Collection.

    In recent times the demand for Crockett & Jones footwear has escalated significantly, due to the quality of its shoes and international marketing. In the latest James Bond film, “Skyfall”, played by Daniel Craig wears Crockett & Jones shoes. A wait time of up to 10 weeks for most of its styles from online retailers are unheard of for other RTW shoemakers in the same price range.

    My Crockett & Jones Hand Grade Audley Black in 337 last, size UK 6.5E
    Purchased from Pediwear, RRP £387.50 ext. VAT
    Topied at Coombs in the Strand Arcade Sydney

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    Last edited: Sep 27, 2013
  5. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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  6. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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    in a few days!
     
  7. barky

    barky Senior member

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    Thanks. I asked because yours looked way shinier than LouisXv's.
     
  8. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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    Alfred Sargent

    Alfred Sargent has been making quality shoes from the same premises in Rushden, Northamptonshire since 1899 and still remains a family business with the fourth generational upholding its traditional skills and craftsmanship. It produces shoes for quite a few private-label merchandises like Herring and J Crew. They used to sit between C&J, Tricker’s and Loake as another good budget shoemaker, which is a pretty crowded market space and combined with other factors had led to serious financial troubles for the company a few years ago. With the help of investors they revamped their whole manufacturing process in 2010 to move upmarket, improved the quality of leather/finishing and redesigned most lasts and styles, possibility from their experience of producing G&G shoes.

    Alfred Sargent currently produces two lines: the AS Exclusive range and the AS Handgrade. The Exclusive line, which is ready-to-wear and covers casual to country styles and dress shoes, is more moderately priced. Their fiddleback waist and high heel stacks combined with a curvier last makes them a visual stand out with high quality in the non-top tier shoemakers at £400 range.

    My Alfred Sargent Exclusive Armfield Black in 109 last, size UK 6.5F
    Purchased from Pediwear, RRP £327.50 ext. VAT
    Topied at Coombs in the Strand Arcade Sydney

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  9. Balfour

    Balfour Senior member

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    Thread continues to deliver.

    By no means in the top tier, but my 'Herring by AS' oxford captoes have great bang for their buck at an even lower price point (£275 including VAT at 20%). Certainly more impressive that Loake 1880s (another shoe I am fond of in the beater category).
     
  10. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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    Thank you. I think they are made to AS Premier standards, before the Exclusives came along?

    Stitched aloft sole, no fiddleback and lower heel stack, possible lower grade leather, I guess they cover for the price difference, can be insignificant visual difference for a good discount!
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2013
  11. Balfour

    Balfour Senior member

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    They're certainly not up to the standards of the Exclusives, but nicer leather and last than Loake Aldwych in the 1880s. Definitely worth the extra £75 IMO.
     
  12. OzzyJones

    OzzyJones Senior member

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    Is that the 1966 range? The Drake is a beautiful shoe but they don't make it in black. Bakers oak tanned fiddle back soles!
     
  13. Balfour

    Balfour Senior member

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    No - I think 1966s are comparable to the exclusives. It is definitely in the budget category rather than middle tier, but punches above its weight.
     
  14. OzzyJones

    OzzyJones Senior member

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    Certainly in price, £395! A lot of shoe for that tho. Are AS not making their lower line now? They're all below £200
     
  15. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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