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The Quintessential Dress Shoe: Black Cap Toe Oxford

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by wurger, Sep 15, 2013.

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  1. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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    it's definitely a shorter shoe the armfield is when comparing audley.
     
  2. FredAstaire1899

    FredAstaire1899 Senior member

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    Once you've got the pics side by side I'll be able to estimate where my pinky will sit in the Armfield - but I think it should be OK.

    Do the AS's have a full sock liner?

    Thanks for all of your help Wurger - it's very much appreciated - trying to find the right cap toe Oxford is something I've been doing for over a year. Your photographic comparison of shoes is also the best I've seen on SF or Ask Andy. For me, I think it's elucidated what many have thought for a while - the VFM on C&Js is not what it once was. You've also offered solid evidence of what I've said for a while - sole protector do nothing to detract from the appearance of a shoe - in fact, it stops the edges from getting tattered and therefore could be seen to enhance the appearance of the shoe.
     
  3. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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    Only half sock liner if I understood you correctly, in fact, I don't have a single shoe that has a full sock from the factory, but I always place a full sock in for al my shoes.

    And thank you for your kind words.

    I agree with what you said about topy whole heartily.
     
    Last edited: Sep 21, 2013
  4. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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    Tricker’s

    Tricker’s was founded in 1829 by Joseph Barltrop, making it one of the oldest surviving shoemakers in the UK and it remains to be a family business run by the Bartrop family.

    The name “Tricker” appeared when Walter James Barltrop, son of Joseph Barltrop, married Claire Louise Tricker in 1862. At that time they decided to change the name from Barltrop, which was thought to be not as commercial a name as Tricker. Tricker’s is the holder of the Royal Warrant from His Royal Highness, the Prince of Wales.

    Tricker’s is famous for its heavy brogue shoes and boots for country use, and does private runs for various vendors in different materials, finishing and colours. Tricker's now has a large market for both men's and ladies fashion shoes, the majority of which goes overseas. Export is the “life blood” of the company now and approximately 70% of all the shoes are exported throughout the world.

    My Tricker’s 1829 Regent Black in 4537 last, size UK 6.5 fitting 5
    Purchased from Pediwear, RRP £287.50 ext. VAT
    Topied at Coombs in the Strand Arcade Sydney

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    Last edited: Sep 21, 2013
  5. leelar

    leelar Member

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    Shit.
     
  6. dddrees

    dddrees Senior member

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    Great thread.

    The comparisons and the information provided here is outstanding.
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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  8. Afinepairofshoes

    Afinepairofshoes Senior member

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    1 person likes this.
  9. Chowkin

    Chowkin Senior member

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    Wurger - what happened to the inside of your right shoe just below the toe cap?
     
  10. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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    Creasing, the only pair of shoes that does that. and Tricker's don't offer lasted trees to push it out.
     
  11. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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    good deal, FredAstaire1899 might finally pull the trigger.
     
    2 people like this.
  12. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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    Middle Tier Group Photos

    Tricker's Regent, Alfred Sargent Armfied and Crockett & Jones Audley

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  13. FredAstaire1899

    FredAstaire1899 Senior member

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    Thanks for the comparison! The AS's are lovely in that comparison. Not surprised you put them in the middle.
     
  14. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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    yes, definitely one of my favourites, in fact, AS is my favourite brand right now.
     
  15. FredAstaire1899

    FredAstaire1899 Senior member

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    If the shoes I just ordered fit they'll be my new favourite too :). The fact that the heels don't have lots of nails means I don't have to put topy over the heel like with the other English brands.
     
  16. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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    Hm, never heard of topy the heel

    Congrats on the purchase
     
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2013
  17. alexSF

    alexSF Senior member

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    S Exclusive Oxford Lasts are really fantastic and so elegant! Those AS are really above the other two!

    How do you care for these black shoes, Do you prefer matte finish for all of them? Or have some pair bulled?
     
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2013
  18. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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    I prefer neither matte or bull. Just a simple brush, two or three layers of polish, and once in a while, some renovateur.

    Whatever finish they came out, I will stand by it.
     
  19. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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    Allen Edmonds

    Founded in 1922 in Belgium, Wisconsin, by Mr Elbert W. Allen, he brought his top salesman Bill Edmonds on as a partner. Their Goodyear welt manufacturing process is 360 degree welt and nail-less and shankless. Along with Alden, it is one of the two premier US shoemakers, albeit at a much larger scale than Alden.

    During the Second World War, Allen Edmond secured a giant contract to provide footwear to the American military. Due to its high quality, legions of returning servicemen continued to wear the shoes after the war was over, and continued to buy them for life, and passing the passion of the brand onto their kids. Four different American presidents wore the company’s signature Park Avenue black cap toe oxford to their inaugurations, Ronald Reagan, George H.W. Bush, Bill Clinton and George W. Bush.

    Today, Allen Edmonds continues to manufacture the vast majority of its footwear in its Wisconsin Factory in the States, (besides a few select pairs that are made in Italy and in the wholly AE owned factory in Dominican Republic).

    Allen Edmonds is definitely a Style Forum favourite due to its availability from various stores in the States, a variety of styles with a solid quality at a fair price, different lasts with different widths, excellent aftersales service and ever going on sales for different occasions.

    My Allen Edmonds Park Avenue Black in 5 last, size US 7E
    Purchased from Amazon, RRP $345
    Topied and reheeled at Coombs in the Strand Arcade Sydney

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  20. TheWraith

    TheWraith Senior member

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    ^ Those don't appeal to me as much as most of your other pairs, Wurger.
     

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