The Quintessential Dress Shoe: Black Cap Toe Oxford

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by wurger, Sep 15, 2013.

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  1. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

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    Wurger, any info on that grand leather review I asked for about a month ago? I, for one, would like to know how the uppers on your (is it 50 already?) pairs have aged. Just as an example I mention Vass, who favours slightly thicker and more substantial calfskins.
     


  2. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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    VRaivio, my shoes haven't gone through much rigour nor time to tell, all of them are holding up quite well.
     


  3. Son Of Saphir

    Son Of Saphir Senior member

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    black cap toe oxford me favourite shoe.
    Me not own shoe in picture,
    but me like it very very much.
    C&J balmoral
    [​IMG] :slayer:

    always make black oxford cap toe best shoe
     
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2014


  4. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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  5. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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    Cheaney

    Joseph Cheaney founded the company at Northhampton in 1886. In 1903 Joseph's sons Arthur and Harold joined the company. In 1966 Cheaney won the Queen's Award to industry and was sold to Church and Company. In 1971, Cheaney again won the coveted Queens Award to Industry for Export. Overseas sales continued to grow until the adverse effect of the inflationary pressures of the 1970s, which affected Cheaney along with many other British exporters. In fact, by the dawn of the 1980s, many Northamptonshire shoe companies had ceased trading.

    Even in this very challenging environment, Cheaney continued to prosper at home, assisted by the introduction of an instock system of branded footwear. It was this that enabled the company to sell to independent retailers and promoted the brand to a growing number of discerning buyers. By the mid-1980s, Cheaney’s export business had recovered well and, by the approach of the new millennium, had a very healthy order book in terms of both its own branded product and also the footwear made for other retailers.

    In early 2002, Cheaney opened its flagship store in London, which helped raise the awareness of the brand.

    In August, 2009, cousins Jonathan and William Church conducted a management buy-out of Cheaney from Church & Co (by then a wholly owned subsidiary of Prada). They now own and operate the company independently.

    My Cheaney Imperial Buckingham Oxford in Black, 208 last, size UK 6 Fitting F
    Purchased from Shoehealer, RRP £375 ext. VAT
    Richard Smith, the owner of Shoehealer is a top bloke and businessman, takes personal care of his customers.

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  6. Louis XIV

    Louis XIV Senior member

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    Imo one of the best looking cap toes you own!
    Will you get them toppied?
     


  7. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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  8. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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    PEDIWEAR

    Got to admit, I bought more shoes from Pediwear than any other shoe shop, they also happen to be the first online retailer I dealt with. Pediwear’s core business is entry to medium level shoe brands: the big three entry level brands been Barker, Loake and Sanders; the big three for the medium level are Alfred Sargent, Crockett & Jones, and Tricker’s. Once past the medium level, one really does pay big bucks for small fine details and brand name.

    The shoe shop began in Halifax in 1976, their web site was set up in 1998 and online store started in 1999. It has been a great move to online sales which enables them to stay ahead of the game to win and grow their business.

    Mr Mike Small, the owner, and his brand managers Mr David Anscomb and Mr Stephen Bentley have been great to deal with both via online chat and emails. I need to point out having an live chat app on one’s site is a great convenience for the buyers, and the end result is people more likely to buy on the spot, instead of waiting for a response via email, which can take a few hours to one or two days.

    I originally wanted to purchase a pair from Pediwear’s own Paragon line last year, but purchased a different brand from their store at the time. Luckily I didn’t, because the shoes are now at half price at £91.25 Ex VAT, so I decided to purchase 3 pairs.

    The last is long smart round toe; the upper leather is very supple and soft, but also very veiny around the lace holes in the quarter. The sole of the shoes are a standout for its price; channelled welt on a curved sole, slightly thicker than other leather dress shoes I have and the hardest wearing out of them all.

    My Pediwear Collection Port Isaac in Black, 27 last, size UK 6 Fitting E+
    Purchased from Pediwear, Sale Price £91.25 ext. VAT

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    Last edited: Jul 10, 2014


  9. Wes Bourne

    Wes Bourne Senior member

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    EG Pelham Adelaides (888 last)

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    If only I had bought them ½ size smaller...
     


  10. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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  11. Wes Bourne

    Wes Bourne Senior member

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    Thank you. Those were 8.5/9E, but I've sold them a while ago.
     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2014


  12. Wes Bourne

    Wes Bourne Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    :sigh:
     


  13. MGD83

    MGD83 Senior member

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    Those were beautiful
     


  14. Simar

    Simar Member

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    Great thread , thanks Wurger . Could you comment though on the relative comfort of some of the shoes reviewed thus far ? I realize this is subjective but there are certain trends amongst shoe manufacturers . For example , I have found Church's to be softer and more comforming in the insole than say AS exclusive . But on the other hand Church's don't tend to fit me around the heel as well . Which are the most comfortable of those you have reviewed ?
     


  15. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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    I think it's probably Church's stopped using full leather insoles to save cost.

    Full leather insoles are pretty hard if you are used to wearing foam insole running shoes, took a while to get used to. I personally made the big mistake of buying my earlier leather shoes half a size big to fit comfortech insoles.

    Now my feet is used to walking on leather, I find the other insoles too spongy.
     
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2014


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