The Quintessential Dress Shoe: Black Cap Toe Oxford

[Franky]

You guys think Tom posts here?

 

[apk251]

My 2 cents.

I am a big C&J fan, having bought 25+ pairs over the past 20 years, but given the substantial increase in price in the past 7-8 years, it is getting to the point where I am no longer buying any of their Handgrade line. They are nice, but not to the point I'd fork GBP 550+ for them, especially since I do not find their lasts particularly inspired. I much prefer the Main Line's 325 and 341 lasts for sportier and dressier models respectively. In the Handgrade line, only the 337 still appeals (I find the 363's toe really heavy), though it pales in comparison to the elegance of EG's 82 last.

If you can afford it, go for a pair of EG Chelsea in 82. This, for me, is the gold standard of oxfords but yes, it comes at a price.

I haven't had the chance to try the AS Armfield, seeing they they are not distributed in HK, and that's why I went for the Armoury Pedder which a) I liked, b) fitted perfectly and c) were reasonably priced. But those AS certainly look extremely well made, and their 109 last seems very elegant, close to EG's 82. Might very well be worth a try.

How are the Pedders holding up? Are they comparable to C&J Handgrade? How would you compare C&J HGs vs EGs?

 

[smooth bernie]

Currently deciding on a black cap toe oxford, preferably from Crockett & Jones, Edward Green, John Lobb or similar brands.

I realize there's no such thing as the 'best cap toe oxford' (or any shoe for that matter), but if you had to choose one pair black cap toe oxfords, which would it be and why?

(See below for pictures from a few styles I liked)

Below: John Lobb City II

Below: Edward Green Chelsea

Below: Crockett & Jones Hallam

 

[DorianGreen]

If you already have shoes from one or more of those brands, go for the last that fits you better.

I would restrict the choice to JL and EG, because their round-toe lasts are classic and traditional, whereas the C&J's softly squared one looks more modern. It's a personal preference though.

By the way, you could also consider the Gaziano & Girling Oxford on the GG06 last.

 

[acconrad]

Currently deciding on a black cap toe oxford, preferably from Crockett & Jones, Edward Green, John Lobb or similar brands.

I realize there's no such thing as the 'best cap toe oxford' (or any shoe for that matter), but if you had to choose one pair black cap toe oxfords, which would it be and why?

(See below for pictures from a few styles I liked)

Below: John Lobb City II

Below: Edward Green Chelsea

Below: Crockett & Jones Hallam

Hallam is in the main collection so if you're gonna compare EG and JL to C&J you need to look at the Handgrade collection.

That said between the JL and EG I went with the EG in the 82 last. Choose the last that is most comfortable for your foot - JL and EG have lots of lasts which are helpful.

 

[mosy]

I like the JL City II best. I find it to be perfect. A close second would be GG Oxford in GG06 (as mentioned by @dorian green).

Currently deciding on a black cap toe oxford, preferably from Crockett & Jones, Edward Green, John Lobb or similar brands.

I realize there's no such thing as the 'best cap toe oxford' (or any shoe for that matter), but if you had to choose one pair black cap toe oxfords, which would it be and why?

(See below for pictures from a few styles I liked)

Below: John Lobb City II

Below: Edward Green Chelsea

Below: Crockett & Jones Hallam

 

[jssdc]

Third vote here for the G&G. I’ve had mine for 11 years now. They’re a lot more expensive - if budget is a concern then CJ Handgrade, while not cheap, has a nice price/quality ratio. I’m a fan of the 337 last and the Audley is a great captoe (I’ve had brown ones for nine years now)

 

[Mute]

Saint Cripin's has a nice black captoe

 

[DorianGreen]

Saint Cripin's has a nice black captoe

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Not a fan of that facing. Generally, besides the quality which could excellent, Saint Crispin's has styles that often look somewhat off to me.

 

[jonathanS]

It

Not a fan of that facing. Generally, besides the quality which could excellent, Saint Crispin's has styles that often look somewhat off to me.

It’s the lasts. I think the toes are off for my preference.

 

[goonerble]

Hi guys, I realise there’s plenty of info in this thread but prices have jumped a lot in the last 2 years or so.

If you had £300-400 to spend in London, what would you go for? I’m looking at Cheaney, Loake and thinking of maybe stretching to C+J but it is a little way out of budget.

This will be my first reasonably premium Oxford, to be worn at my wedding would appreciate any help, thank you!

 

[jssdc]

Hi guys, I realise there’s plenty of info in this thread but prices have jumped a lot in the last 2 years or so.

If you had £300-400 to spend in London, what would you go for? I’m looking at Cheaney, Loake and thinking of maybe stretching to C+J but it is a little way out of budget.

This will be my first reasonably premium Oxford, to be worn at my wedding would appreciate any help, thank you!

If you can still find any, Alfred Sargent/Paul Sargent I think can be had for that price. quality level is somewhere between C&J bench grade and handgrade, so a meaningful uplift from Loake or cheaney.

 

[goonerble]

If you can still find any, Alfred Sargent/Paul Sargent I think can be had for that price. quality level is somewhere between C&J bench grade and handgrade, so a meaningful uplift from Loake or cheaney.

That's great to know and i'll take a look at them now, appreciate it! Thanks