The Quality of Hems: Invisible vs. Visible Hems

[pimpmystyle]

This is a somewhat esoteric topic, but still important if you're interested in maximizing esthetics. I used to have a local tailor who absolutely rocked. Instead of cuffing my pants, she created an invisible hem. I have no idea how they did it, but it's literally invisible from the outside of the garment.

Unfortunately, I tore the hem from the inside and had to go to another tailor. I told them what I wanted, but it's pretty obvious that it's hemmed. The material bunches around at each stitch and some of the stitched thread is visible if only barely.

Did I find an especially adept and able tailor the first time 'round or is it simply more typical to receive a hem where the work is visible? I don't want to waste my time trying to recreate an invisible hem if very few if any tailors are capable of it.

PS: the second tailor only charged me $5 and took care of the repair on the spot, whereas the more skilled tailor charged $15 and I had to wait a week, if not longer. I'd gladly pay for the extra time and money to have the job done exactly.

 

[Working Stiff]

The solution is to put 2 inch cuffs on all of your pants.

 

[pimpmystyle]

No, my pants look better without cuffs. I'd rather have the invisible hems done properly.

 

[free man]

I have no idea how its done, but I like it

 

[philosophe]

Tailor #2 did a bad job. Find a more skillful tailor.

 

[embowafa]

the blind stitch is a pretty standard stitch. I sure as hell couldn't do it, but then again, I'm not a tailor.

I'd venture a guess that any tailor worth his salt should know how to do this.

 

[pimpmystyle]

I hedged my bets and am getting another pair hemmed at a second tailor. Hopefully, the second time's the charm. They were both recommended on yelp. Yelp is 0 for 1 so far.

 

[grimslade]

The quality of hems is not strained. It droppeth like a gentle rain from your waistband.

 

[bigbris1]

Originally Posted by Working Stiff

The solution is to put 2 inch cuffs on all of your pants.
You rule.

 

[pimpmystyle]

I picked up another piece of "work" from a second "tailor." This one's even worse than the last. Yelp is 0 for 2. The lady said it was the best work she could do, pointing to a sewing machine that looked to be at least 50 years old and in bad repair.

I guess I'll just live with it, until someone points to the semi-visible hem and says "you have mediocre hem work on your slacks! ha ha!"

 

[HalfCanvas]

There's nothing wrong with a 50 year old sewing machine.

Blind stitches are not hard to do, and I often do them myself by hand. But there's no such thing as a hem stitch you cannot see if you really look for it. Thicker fabrics, heavier fabrics, and fabrics with more texture conceal the stitch better. If you do a blind stitch on, say, a pair of lightweight tan pants, it becomes more difficult to conceal the stitch. This is particularly true if you use a machine, instead of doing it by hand. The reason is because if you set the tension wrong on the machine, you end up having the "crumpling" you're talking about. Yet, if you set the tension too loose, the stitch will come unravelled in no time (this is what is so much better about a hand-done stitch -- since it is a lock stitch and not a chain stitch, it won't come undone unless the thread literally breaks).

 

[pimpmystyle]

^That's quality info, thanks. I'm pretty sure what the issue is now.

The original tailor did the original hem without any previous stitching in place. In retrospect, it's pretty clear that they minimized the amount of stitching to create the look of invisibility. But, minimizing the amount of stitching meant it was susceptible to unraveling and damage, which is what happened.

The next tailor stitched over the original hem, and did not do so with much care, creating the 'dimpling effect.' Also, they used MORE stitching, leaving much more thread visible from the outside.

All in all, it's pretty sloppy work by both of the latter tailors. The original tailor was more skilled and the esthetics were more pleasing, but the stitching was not as sturdy. It's a tradeoff, but I prefer the more esthetically pleasing work.

It's really tough to find a good tailor. I've only managed to find one whose work was outstanding. The others just stitch and hope you (or others) won't be able to see shoddy work from a distance.

 

[pimpmystyle]

Forgive my temporary? obsession with quality tailoring. I have one surviving pair of slacks hemmed by my previous tailor. Wow. Wow. NOW I can make out the stitching. BUT, only if I hold it up a few inches from my face in VERY bright light. This is quality tailoring, at its finest. When I saw the work, I didn't even blink when they mentioned the price.

The slight tradeoff is that it's fragile. You have to be careful. So, off I go in search of the ideal tailor.

 

[jefferyd]

Originally Posted by grimslade

The quality of hems is not strained. It droppeth like a gentle rain from your waistband.

Many a time and oft in the Rialto have you rated me for my blindstitching and my canvasses. Still have I born it with a patient shrug since waist suppression is the badge of all our tribe.

 

[pimpmystyle]

What do you do if you think the quality of tailoring is not up to par? Do you ask for a refund? A discount?

Or, do you just pay in full with a grimace and resolve never to visit that tailor again?

PS: I wore the pants with the better if still non ideal tailoring today. It's really not that visible, unless you make a special effort to look for it.