the profoundly unofficial I Sarti Italiani thread

[classicalthunde]

Do most people opt for hand made button holes over machine?

I did after a bit of a discussion...They had some samples of the handmade and machine made samples for me, the difference was worth the extra hundred euro

 

[UrbanComposition]

Talked to Salvo today and asked a few questions to clarify how canvassing is attached.

Salvo reminded me that for my initial jackets (already 8 years ago!) I asked for spalla camicia, his default fit (lean & clean), and the lightest construction possible, which at the time was half-canvas and fusible. Ever since then I’ve been making fit/construction tweaks. The first thing he did was source the lightest weight horsehair canvas (only putting another two or three different layers on the chest for shaping), fuller sleeve heads, and manica mappina. From that time on all jackets for myself and US clients have hand-basted full canvassing.

A year ago (or two? I forget) I asked Salvo what the difference is between hand padded and machine padded lapels. He said he preferred machine padded since they roll more three-dimensional and full. However this can tend to pull the chest open, resulting in more of a U than a V-shape. This is mitigated with increasing fabric in the chest and adding an extra piece of hair cloth on the bias so the overall effect is teh drape.

Ever since then I’ve told him that machine-padded lapels are fine for my jackets, but the canvas continues to be basted by hand and the collar is hand-padded for myself and all other US clients. He did say that since it’s less labor to use a machine he may make the lapel a option to pay for or decline (like hand-made buttonholes).

Salvo remembers @dieworkwear asking similar questions so I asked him if that meant he specified one or the other, and he said he honestly didn’t know, so Derek, your last suit may or may not have hand-rolled lapels buuuut just to clarify everyone’s jackets are hand-basted full canvas with hand-padded lapels and collar, unless they ask otherwise.

They sold their pick-stitching machine a short while ago so he says starting next visit he may upcharge for that since all pick stitching will be by hand going forward. Looking at my jackets, some seem to have less uniform pick stitching than others, but I don’t notice unless I’m really looking.

…and I think that’s it!

 

[classybison]

Any idea when he'll be back in NYC? Missed the boat on this last visit.

 

[taxgenius]

Any idea when he'll be back in NYC? Missed the boat on this last visit.

I believe in the Fall and then again in the Spring.

 

[classicalthunde]

Loving the Minnis cord.
View attachment 1759530

@emptym I can't seem to find it...did you share the specific reference for this green cord? If not, do you recall what it was?

I'm eyeing up a corduroy jack/suit for the next round of I Sarti visits, and wanted to compare your fabric to the 3101X Brisbane Moss drab color

 

[dieworkwear]

Any idea when he'll be back in NYC? Missed the boat on this last visit.

I believe October, but don't think specific dates have been set yet. When I left the San Francisco trunk show, Salvo said something like "see you in October."

 

[emptym]

Sure, @classicalthunde, it was #9366, Dark Olive, here. When I email them, I hear back from Mark, who's super helpful.

 

[Mr. Six]

[Late edit because the text got eaten by a post. Jackets are from other makers.] A couple of pairs of I Sarti trousers.

977B677E-D8A6-40AC-859F-8BFBF566AD30.jpeg

• Mr. Six
• Jun 13, 2022

589E540E-899D-4421-8F80-CED0829323AA.jpeg

• Mr. Six
• May 7, 2022

 

[emptym]

Both look great. Is the top jacket newer? Looks like the shoulders are a bit more extended, the gorge lowers, the lapels have some belly, and the patch pockets taper at the top. Also, the top jacket's front buttons are spaced more closely than than bottom ones. I noticed that my corduroy jacket's front buttons are pretty close too.

 

[Mr. Six]

Both look great. Is the top jacket newer? Looks like the shoulders are a bit more extended, the gorge lowers, the lapels have some belly, and the patch pockets taper at the top. Also, the top jacket's front buttons are spaced more closely than than bottom ones. I noticed that my corduroy jacket's front buttons are pretty close too.

Weird. The text in my post got eaten. The trousers are both I Sarti. The jackets are Steed (top) and Solito (bottom). Sorry for the confusion!

 

[classicalthunde]

Weird. The text in my post got eaten. The trousers are both I Sarti. The jackets are Steed (top) and Solito (bottom). Sorry for the confusion!

what fabric/books did you use for the I Sarti trousers? They look great!

 

[Mr. Six]

what fabric/books did you use for the I Sarti trousers? They look great!

Thanks! The bottom ones are Drapers 4-ply. It was 4243, but the book might have been re-numbered. I think 85% of the Bay Area clients ordered a pair in that color. 😂

The grey ones are a wool-silk cav twill that I picked up from @edmorel. Mystery mill. Very breezy but a decent drape. (They need pressing, though!)

 

[dauster]

@UrbanComposition any update on some of the commissions - Salvo said he might be able to ship some early so we can wear a bit before he comes back ?

 

[comrade]

Pic dump. I realize I should've taken more, but...

I took closeups of some of @emptym 's jackets so you can see the chest canvas is extended into the sleeve to produce the "manica mappina." @taxgenius mentioned this is something that the Armoury does for their Model 3.

I forget what all the fabrics are, but I think there are some Fox and Drapers Ascot 6-ply in there...extremely jealous of the polo coat.

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The single breasted chalk stripe is sublime.
I wish I had the time, patience, and excuse
to get a suit like that.

 

[classicalthunde]

anyone hear of an update on the NYC and SF trunk shows in October?